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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Atwood refridgerator power problem

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wa8yxm

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Posted: 10/11/17 04:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You said you had CONTINUNITY across all fuses..

DO YOU HAVE VOLTAGE.. You have described dead/disconnected batteries rather well.


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Old-Biscuit

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Posted: 10/11/17 04:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Travelin2 wrote:

Thanks for that O-B, The door switch does work but no power to it. I guess I will open up that top panel and see if I can find where the 12v stops. Maybe there is a little fuse in there??? The pins going to it are hot on the power board on the back of the fridge so something must be amiss in that interior panel.


Light/door switch get power thru 'other' connector on board

Display panel get it from top connector


2 separate connectors......2 separate issues

BOTH lack of DC

You haven't answered what happens if you plug back into 120V AC


Is it time for your medication or mine?


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Travelin2

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Posted: 10/11/17 04:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wa8yxm wrote:

You said you had CONTINUNITY across all fuses..

DO YOU HAVE VOLTAGE.. You have described dead/disconnected batteries rather well.


Yes, the voltages are good...13.3 at the DC fuse, both ends and 120AC at the AC fuse holder, again at both ends of the holder.


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Travelin2

SW Florida

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Posted: 10/11/17 04:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Travelin2 wrote:

Thanks for that O-B, The door switch does work but no power to it. I guess I will open up that top panel and see if I can find where the 12v stops. Maybe there is a little fuse in there??? The pins going to it are hot on the power board on the back of the fridge so something must be amiss in that interior panel.


Light/door switch get power thru 'other' connector on board

Display panel get it from top connector


2 separate connectors......2 separate issues

BOTH lack of DC

I just came back in from the RV and yes it is plugged in to 120AC.

I have good DC voltage at both of those connectors. The wires from those connectors go into the back of the fridge through one grommet.

I removed the wire harness from the display board on the front of the unit and there is no power. I am going to check the parts blowup to see if I can figure out where all the wires go after they enter the back because there is only one six wire connector on the back of the display panel.

Still have no lights inside and no reaction when the power button is pushed with the RV plugged in to 120 AC and battery switch on. Both voltages are good.

You haven't answered what happens if you plug back into 120V AC


trailrider

new plymouth, idaho

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Posted: 10/11/17 09:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Travelin2 wrote:

Thanks for the info Old-Biscuit....I had no idea that model had been discontinued already. Must be a pile of junk. Guess I should have done a little research.

In the morning I will check out some of the things you brought up. Thanks

I found the schematic for it that you were referring to so I should be able to find out why DC is not on the front panel.


Junk, yes. Read this thread:

https://www.granddesignowners.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-1823.html

Horrible design. When the heating element burns out the fridge just stops working with no alert and no switching to gas. There goes your food if you don't catch it in time.


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Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 10/12/17 04:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Travelin2 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Travelin2 wrote:

Thanks for that O-B, The door switch does work but no power to it. I guess I will open up that top panel and see if I can find where the 12v stops. Maybe there is a little fuse in there??? The pins going to it are hot on the power board on the back of the fridge so something must be amiss in that interior panel.


Light/door switch get power thru 'other' connector on board

Display panel get it from top connector


2 separate connectors......2 separate issues

BOTH lack of DC

I just came back in from the RV and yes it is plugged in to 120AC.

I have good DC voltage at both of those connectors. The wires from those connectors go into the back of the fridge through one grommet.

I removed the wire harness from the display board on the front of the unit and there is no power. I am going to check the parts blowup to see if I can figure out where all the wires go after they enter the back because there is only one six wire connector on the back of the display panel.

Still have no lights inside and no reaction when the power button is pushed with the RV plugged in to 120 AC and battery switch on. Both voltages are good.

You haven't answered what happens if you plug back into 120V AC


Top 6 pin connector......5 pins used
Wires go to another connector on display panel circuit board


Bottom 6 pin.....wires (2 each +/-) go to each component individually (Divider heater, Door Switch, Interior Light)


Sounds like broken wire harness/wiring going thru that common grommet.
Wires hot at lower circuit board...........not hot at display connector---broken wire harness (IF shorted out..3A fuse would BLOW)

Interior light...have you tested connections?
Is light burnt out?

Travelin2

SW Florida

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Posted: 10/12/17 04:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, Trailrider you sure know how to make a guys day.[emoticon] That was not a fun half hour.

I wonder if there is a favorite replacement model by the folks that have cut their losses and went back to the tried and true?

I didn't get a chance to tinker on it today. I'm still puzzled about the wire harness not conveying DC to the front board. There must be a junction box between the back and front boards.

Travelin2

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Posted: 10/12/17 05:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Travelin2 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Travelin2 wrote:

Thanks for that O-B, The door switch does work but no power to it. I guess I will open up that top panel and see if I can find where the 12v stops. Maybe there is a little fuse in there??? The pins going to it are hot on the power board on the back of the fridge so something must be amiss in that interior panel.


Light/door switch get power thru 'other' connector on board

Display panel get it from top connector


2 separate connectors......2 separate issues

BOTH lack of DC

I just came back in from the RV and yes it is plugged in to 120AC.

I have good DC voltage at both of those connectors. The wires from those connectors go into the back of the fridge through one grommet.

I removed the wire harness from the display board on the front of the unit and there is no power. I am going to check the parts blowup to see if I can figure out where all the wires go after they enter the back because there is only one six wire connector on the back of the display panel.

Still have no lights inside and no reaction when the power button is pushed with the RV plugged in to 120 AC and battery switch on. Both voltages are good.

You haven't answered what happens if you plug back into 120V AC


Top 6 pin connector......5 pins used
Wires go to another connector on display panel circuit board


Bottom 6 pin.....wires (2 each +/-) go to each component individually (Divider heater, Door Switch, Interior Light)


Sounds like broken wire harness/wiring going thru that common grommet.
Wires hot at lower circuit board...........not hot at display connector---broken wire harness (IF shorted out..3A fuse would BLOW)

Interior light...have you tested connections?
Is light burnt out?


Hi Old-Biscuit...I had lots of irons in the fire today and didn't get to play with the RV. I did not get to testing the light. I will pop out the bulb and see if the switch is hot. I did remove the connector from the back of the "eyebrow" board in front and not one of the wires showed power. I just can't see all the wires breaking at the same time. Also, something that was a little odd was on each wire at that top connector there was minimal readings like--- .023volts---.113volts and such. None were zero. Let me say though the little multimeter I was using was made in China.

Would you tell me what the "divider heater" is that is powered by the lower connector?

I did test the AC heater yesterday and it shows 48.9 ohms so I guess that should heat if I can get this lost power situation figured out.
I do want to thank you for giving this some thought and some of your time.

I just had a thought. I tested the pins coming out of the power board and they have power but after plugging the connector back on, I never pierced the insulation on the wires near the connector to see if that connector is doing it's job. It may be a mismanufactured connector. Seems like a long shot though.

* This post was edited 10/12/17 05:40pm by Travelin2 *

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