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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Winterizing - Extreme cold winters

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DrewE

Vermont

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Posted: 10/12/17 01:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:

Kayteg1 wrote:

Compressors are inefficient.
Get shop vac and let it run for 1 or 2 hr to blow the piping dry
Ever vacuum the water out?


Not from an RV, but I do have a good friend who uses a shop vac to winterize their cabin, vacuuming out the excess water from the toilet tanks and bowls before putting antifreeze in.

Growing up we had an apartment above our garage that would get winterized, and we used a plunger to get as much water as possible out of the toilet traps, but the vacuum is quicker and easier and more thorough for that. Of course, in a standard RV toilet, this is not something that needs doing.

For the supply pipes, though, it's not at all necessary to get every last molecule of water out. A few drops remaining don't cause problems, in my actual experience. Blowing out the lines doesn't need to take hours to be effective. (Of course, displacing water with antifreeze is also effective.)

I don't know if most shop vacs would develop enough pressure to push the water out or not, though if used in suction they should be sufficient in my estimation. Rigging up an adapter from vacuum cleaner hose to water inlet or low point drain seems to me like it would be a bit tricky.





swimmer_spe

Sudbury, Ontario, Canada

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Posted: 10/12/17 01:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP here.

Found out today a few things.

1) RV dealer does it cheap. And they let me watch. So, they are going to do it and I will learn how.

2) They told me that no new RV uses air, as it void the warrantee. They use RV antifreeze.

trailerbikecamper

eastern Canada

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Posted: 10/12/17 03:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'vs always used just the anti-freeze. Even when I was in northern Alberta, where temps went down to about -40 for a few weeks. Never had an issue.

I always had a concern that blowing the lines out might leave water pockets in low points allowing for the possibility of a spilt line.


Dan

time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 10/12/17 03:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

And why leave the antifreeze in? Pump it through and blow it out.
Belt and suspenders for the 'deep freeze' [emoticon]

(with a grain of salt from warm year 'round so cal)


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pconroy328

Colorado

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Posted: 10/12/17 04:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

swimmer_spe wrote:


2) They told me that no new RV uses air, as it void the warrantee. They use RV antifreeze.


Dunno about voiding a warranty, but ... You'd think the dealer wouldn't lie. [emoticon]

We get 0*F and occasionally -20*F - it's been plain old RV antifreeze and so far, so good.

joebedford

Mesa, AZ

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Posted: 10/12/17 04:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Personally I put in the pink stuff and leave it in. I'm always worried that compressed air only will pass through trapped H2O in a low spot then you have a problem.

I get what you're saying about extreme freezing. I don't even think about winterizing unless it's going to be well below -5C for a few days. The pipes just don't freeze with cool but not bitter air.

OTOH, I usually go south for the winter - best method!

John&Joey

Summer-North,Winter-South

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Posted: 10/12/17 04:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Most of those that don't know about extreme cold also don't know about concrete foundations breaking either. Like I say, you only know what you know.

1. Blow out lines, drain HWH.
2. Set bypass on HWH and run RV antifreeze via pump.
3. Blow out antifreeze, catch and use again or use in the traps.

Depending on your rig will net you different results. I've had rigs that during the blowing out the antifreeze cycle, clear water would run for a cup or two first. Whole process is about 15 minutes and $5.

It's all about risks vs rewards.

FLY 4 FUN

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Posted: 10/12/17 04:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I dont understand why you would want to blow out the lines with air then pull antifreeze into the system? When you correctly pump antifreeze into the rig and open one tap at a time until pink comes out you have ensured water is GONE from the lines! Finish up by ensuring city water valve is depressed once pump is off and your good to go. Seems like an extra step vs just using antifreeze.


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swimmer_spe

Sudbury, Ontario, Canada

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Posted: 10/12/17 07:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

FLY 4 FUN wrote:

I dont understand why you would want to blow out the lines with air then pull antifreeze into the system? When you correctly pump antifreeze into the rig and open one tap at a time until pink comes out you have ensured water is GONE from the lines! Finish up by ensuring city water valve is depressed once pump is off and your good to go. Seems like an extra step vs just using antifreeze.


That's what they said. They don't blow the lines. They just drain the lines through the low spot drains. They then pump the pink antifreeze via the pump.

vermilye

Oswego, NY, USA

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Posted: 10/12/17 07:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use air only for the water lines, and antifreeze for the drains. One point - use an oilless compressor or a good oil filter - you don't want oil in the water lines. I blow out the lines at 40PSI one tap at a time, working from the first to last tap in the line. Let it sit for an hour or two, then do it again. Don't forget the toilet & outside shower. Be sure to run the water pump dry, and, of course, drain the water heater. A good time to check/replace the anode.

While this worked for the first 3 years with -10°F winters, I got a much better idea starting 3 years ago - head for Quartzsite, AZ, and forget about winterizing! I'm on my way now...


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