RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: Fiberglass Repair Help

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class C Motorhomes

Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  All

 > Fiberglass Repair Help

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev  |  Next
Sponsored By:
fourthclassC

MA

Senior Member

Joined: 06/09/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 11/01/17 12:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi, another suggestion here. If they are really cracks, I think the 1/16" drill hole at the ends is good. If only gel coat cracks I suggest the same. MarineTex . I think this is the best stuff for this type of repair. Using a really clean edge rubber squeege to apply thin..

fourthclassC

MA

Senior Member

Joined: 06/09/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 11/01/17 12:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi, another suggestion here. If they are really cracks, I think the 1/16" drill hole at the ends is good. If only gel coat cracks I suggest the same. MarineTex . I think this is the best stuff for this type of repair. Using a really clean edge rubber squeege to apply thin..

SpeakEasy

Western New York

Senior Member

Joined: 04/22/2016

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 11/01/17 12:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fourthclassC wrote:

Hi, another suggestion here. If they are really cracks, I think the 1/16" drill hole at the ends is good. If only gel coat cracks I suggest the same. MarineTex . I think this is the best stuff for this type of repair. Using a really clean edge rubber squeege to apply thin..


Hate to disagree, but I think they'll just open up again if he does this. That's the first thing I tried on mine, and they just opened up again.

-Speak


It's just Mrs. SpeakEasy and me now (empty-nesters). But we can choose from among 7 grandchildren to drag along with us!



2014 F-150 Super Crew Short Bed 3.5L Ecoboost
2014 Flagstaff Micro Lite 23LB


Hank85713

Tucson, Az

Senior Member

Joined: 05/04/2006

View Profile





Offline
Posted: 11/01/17 09:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The cracks will continue IF you do not get the very end of the crack. This is a technique used in aviation to stop cracks. The bit will be decided by the size but if small a 1/16 should be fine. I found some on my class c and stop drilled them and they have not returned, same on the motorcycle accessories that had small cracks. Just have to be sure to get the very end.

photobug

Seattle, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 03/26/2003

View Profile



Posted: 11/01/17 10:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm an ex Air Force flight engineer and Boeing aircraft inspector. I'm familiar with the concept. Started pouring rain out again, so I didn't get a chance to work on it. I suppose I should check for delamination as well. wish I had an ultra sound machine to really check it.


1998 Class C Lazy Daze 26 1/2 island bed
banks intake/exhaust
wifi/4g/siriusXM/DTV/DirecTV/CB
2xGeorbital electric bike conversions


photobug

Seattle, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 03/26/2003

View Profile



Posted: 11/02/17 04:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sun needs to come out again, it's 45 degrees and raining. can't get any exterior work done.
How am I supposed to get any work done? It SNOWED last night.

* This post was edited 11/03/17 10:20am by photobug *

Dakzuki

Carnation, Wa, USA

Senior Member

Joined: 11/01/2002

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 11/04/17 04:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The real fix is to grind it out repair any damage, fill and refinish. A die grinder works well for this. If the damage goes deep enough, you need to get behind it and lay in some fiberglass. It is very doable if you've done any bodywork and are willing to learn a bit of fiberglass work if needed. I suspect you are going to find it is more cosmetic than anything. I don't think stop drilling it is going to do much for you as fiberglass cracks don't propagate in fiberglass like aluminum. The "paint" they use when molding fiberglass is called gelcoat. It is thick stuff that is sprayed into the mold befor the fiberglass goes in. The fiberglass, when laid into the mold sticks to the gelcoat as the exposed surface remains tacky after "drying". It almost looks like the gelcoat or gelcoat and a layer of thin fiberglass have separated. I used to work with fiberglass a lot so I've seen a bit. If you do and up having to do glass work in the interior of the RV I would recommend using something other that polyester resin (epoxy may be better). The smell of polyester resin inside an enclosed place like an RV will linger a long time and could cause marital strife. It is one of the more potent and permanent stinks I know of. If you feel you are in over your head I know of an RV repair place in Fife (Wescraft) that did an excellent job on an insurance repair of my fiberglass overhead from a rock strike.

* This post was last edited 11/04/17 05:14pm by Dakzuki *   View edit history


2011 Itasca Navion 24J
2000 Chev Tracker Toad


photobug

Seattle, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 03/26/2003

View Profile



Posted: 11/05/17 12:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

the sun is supposed to come out monday, I'll see if I can rig a platform up there and see what I can do. supposed to snow again tonight. I'm thinking something a bit flexible for a filler because is looks like there's a bit of stress in that area and brittle resin might crack or peal out again. Fife is a bit far for me right now, too me 2 1/2 hrs to get to tacoma dome last night. 38 miles. 2 more weeks until I leave.

T18skyguy

Eugene, OR

Senior Member

Joined: 12/13/2004

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 03/20/20 06:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would agree with the guys above. If that rig has been sitting out in the rain with those cracks you may have some bigger issues inside. Here's how another of our members said a dealer fixed his roof crack. "Clean the area with a non petroleum solvent. Fill the crack with Fiberglass resin,then apply a fiberglass patch with Marine 5200 Vulcanizing adhesive" This was done on a roof however, so can't say how appropriate it would be for your overhead.


Retired Anesthetist. LTP. Pilot with mechanic/inspection ratings. 2017 Jayco Greyhawk 31FS. Wife and daughter. Three cats which we must obey.

Gjac

Milford, CT

Senior Member

Joined: 08/16/2006

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 03/21/20 10:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

From the photos you posted it is hard to tell if the crack is in the gel coat or goes all the way through the laminate. If you are not getting water on the inside it is probably just cracking in the gel coat and not through the laminate itself. If you worked at Boeing in the NDI area you know that Boeing uses prepreg materials for their layups and the resin to cloth ratio is controlled very tightly in the prepegging process. With a wet layup that boats and RV manufactures use there is little control and is pretty much left up to the laminator how much gelcoat to apply. When gelcote is applied too thick which usually happens in tight radius areas shown in you photos, it has a tendency crack in the heat from the sun because of the different rates of thermal expansion between pure resin and the laminate underneath. Pure resin (gelcote) expands much more than the laminate. Looking at the black area the black paint absorbs the heat from the sun much more than the white areas which tends to reflect the suns heat. I imagine the cab sees a lot of movement especially on rough roads which adds to the problem to cause stress cracks in those radius areas. If you are not getting water on the inside I would not do any repairs until after your trip. When you return I would sand the surface cracks off the black areas and paint them white. For the long stress cracks(again if not through the laminate) I would sand that area down to remove the excess resin then go to a marine store and have them mix you a gelcoat to match your color (there are many different shades of white) and screed that over the sanded area just enough to cover the fibers, the thinner the better. I would not drill any holes through the laminate to stop the cracks from spreading the FG cross plys will resist crack propagation,you would only do that in metal and pure resin structures like thermoplastics. Hope this helps and try to enjoy your trip.

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  All

 > Fiberglass Repair Help
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class C Motorhomes


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.