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LarryJM

NoVa

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Joined: 11/09/2007

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Posted: 09/12/18 04:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LVJJJ wrote:

waaayy back in the '80's when we towed with our 1965 Chevy Van, I used two anti-sway bars, but after almost losing it when two semi's blew by me on each side on a three lane freeway, going downhill, I bought an Equal-I-zer hitch and have been sway free since then.
Those so-called anti-sway bars are stupidly ineffective, they don't start working until AFTER the sway has started so its hit and miss if they will keep you from crashing. While I recommend an Equal-i-zer there are several other hitches out there these days (however, many of those are Equal-i-zer knock offs so get the real thing) that don't need sway bars. Protect your family and get something that works.


I disagree with just about everything you posted and it appears you don't understand how these systems actually work. A properly adjusted and installed (i.e. more than one for longer trailers) "friction bar" system IMO is just about as effective as any of the other friction based systems (Equal-i-zer, Reese, etc.). They begin operating any time there is a rotational movement of the trailer tongue on the TV hitch ball and NOT as you stated "after sway has started" just like such systems as the Equal-i-zer and Reese do. The biggest advantage IMO of the integrated systems is they as more or less adjustment free except for the "socket pivet bolt torque" on the Equal-i-zer system. Also, there are not the "backing concerns" with them as you need to be aware of with the "friction bar" type system.

Larry


2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL


Vintage465

Prunedale CA.

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Posted: 09/12/18 06:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've used straight up round bar and friction type sway-trols for years. Properly set up, they will work perfectly safe. There is a lot of info not stated here. Tires. Pressure in the tires. Is the trailer level. How much tongue weight. To just arbitrarily say they don't work or are cheap or are unsafe is not correct. Personally I think the first thing I'd look into is the 1/2 ton pickup with a 32' trailer..............


V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retired and living the dream!

Huntindog

Phoenix AZ

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Posted: 09/13/18 01:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have used a single, and double friction control. And am now on my third EQUALIZER 4 point.

IMO, a double friction control has about the same anti sway dampening as either the DC or EQUALIZER. Some years back our resident engineer did the calculations, and they were all very close as well.

The friction controls work well.... And the big advantage they have is that they work independantly from the WD function... This means that the set up can be off a lot, and the friction control will still work.... This is why I recommend it for newbies.

Now the integreted say control hitches are setup dependant as to how well they will work.

Once properly setup, they are easier to use.... But not any better performing that a dual friction control hitch.

Most all of the people that rave about them came from a single friction control hitch... That indeed would be a big difference.

But Dual friction or DC, or EQUALIZER is a wash performance wise.

As for how to adjust the friction controls... Tighten them until the Steering wheel of the TV doesn't want to return to center after a sharp turn. Then back it off a little.

That was in the directions for my friction controls.



Huntindog
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hussbuss

home

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Posted: 09/13/18 05:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have used 2 friction bars on a 34 foot Jayco Designer for 2 trips to Florida. They really helped with the bow wave from trucks and from side winds. Towed without them for 12 years local with a dually, but it got sway on the interstate. Installed 2 bars the first year and 90% of the sway went away. Just don't set to tight on wet roads or the tow vehicle wont steer. I now use a Reese SC 1500 series hitch with my 37 ft. Enterra. Also use and believe in Air Tabs. Tows like the cats a-- now.

jerem0621

Tennessee

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Posted: 09/13/18 06:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Huntindog wrote:

I have used a single, and double friction control. And am now on my third EQUALIZER 4 point.

IMO, a double friction control has about the same anti sway dampening as either the DC or EQUALIZER. Some years back our resident engineer did the calculations, and they were all very close as well.

The friction controls work well.... And the big advantage they have is that they work independantly from the WD function... This means that the set up can be off a lot, and the friction control will still work.... This is why I recommend it for newbies.

Now the integreted say control hitches are setup dependant as to how well they will work.

Once properly setup, they are easier to use.... But not any better performing that a dual friction control hitch.

Most all of the people that rave about them came from a single friction control hitch... That indeed would be a big difference.

But Dual friction or DC, or EQUALIZER is a wash performance wise.

As for how to adjust the friction controls... Tighten them until the Steering wheel of the TV doesn't want to return to center after a sharp turn. Then back it off a little.

That was in the directions for my friction controls.


This is a great response. Thanks for posting.

I used DC and Dual Friction Bars on my TT. They performed exactly the same with my 31.5 ft trailer. Neither swayed and took out all of the bow wave push oscillation from passing vehicles. I still felt the push it would just be one push not a push against the TT then a push against the Truck.

I hope that made sense.

I took the DC off the truck and put the friction bars back on. DC puts a lot of pressure on the trunnion sockets and I was using cam adaptors on a Husky hitch and the DC ripped the trunnions right out of the hitch head.

That was also about the time there seemed to be a mountain (nearly weekly posts) about someone's DC breaking and snapping parts so I just went back to a standard WD hitch and two friction bars when I replaced the Husky.

OP, add a second bar and adjust per the instructions. Also, don't buy into the marketing about there being a left and a right bar, you can remove the slider and invert the slider, and.., now your sway bar works on the other side. Your sticker will just be upside down.

Thanks and good luck.

Jeremiah


TV- 2011 Chevy Tahoe, 2WD, Hayden transmission cooler
TT - Zinger 270BH
WD Hitch- HaulMaster 1,000 lb Round Bar
Dual Friction bar sway control
Tekonsha Voyager brake controller (Great Brake Controller)

It’s Kind of Fun to do the Impossible
~Walt Disney~


Huntindog

Phoenix AZ

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Posted: 09/13/18 07:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One more point on adjusting a friction control:
It is not adjusted with the handle! That should be tightened all the way. The adjustment is done with the bolt.


LVJJJ

NW WASHINGTON

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Posted: 09/15/18 10:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LarryJM wrote:

LVJJJ wrote:

waaayy back in the '80's when we towed with our 1965 Chevy Van, I used two anti-sway bars, but after almost losing it when two semi's blew by me on each side on a three lane freeway, going downhill, I bought an Equal-I-zer hitch and have been sway free since then.
Those so-called anti-sway bars are stupidly ineffective, they don't start working until AFTER the sway has started so its hit and miss if they will keep you from crashing. While I recommend an Equal-i-zer there are several other hitches out there these days (however, many of those are Equal-i-zer knock offs so get the real thing) that don't need sway bars. Protect your family and get something that works.


I disagree with just about everything you posted and it appears you don't understand how these systems actually work. A properly adjusted and installed (i.e. more than one for longer trailers) "friction bar" system IMO is just about as effective as any of the other friction based systems (Equal-i-zer, Reese, etc.). They begin operating any time there is a rotational movement of the trailer tongue on the TV hitch ball and NOT as you stated "after sway has started" just like such systems as the Equal-i-zer and Reese do. The biggest advantage IMO of the integrated systems is they as more or less adjustment free except for the "socket pivet bolt torque" on the Equal-i-zer system. Also, there are not the "backing concerns" with them as you need to be aware of with the "friction bar" type system.

Larry


Well I totally disagree with your post. Anti-sway bars are dangerous and don't work in all situations, Equal-I-zers do and have saved my life. Sorry, I do understand how these things work based reality based on 30 years of experience.

* This post was edited 09/15/18 10:52am by LVJJJ *


1994 GMC Suburban K1500
2005 Trail Cruiser TC26QBC
1965 CHEVY VAN, 292 "Big Block 6" (will still tow)
2008 HHR
L(Larry)V(Vicki)J(Jennifer)J(Jesse)J(Jason)

LarryJM

NoVa

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Joined: 11/09/2007

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Posted: 09/15/18 01:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LVJJJ wrote:

LarryJM wrote:

LVJJJ wrote:

waaayy back in the '80's when we towed with our 1965 Chevy Van, I used two anti-sway bars, but after almost losing it when two semi's blew by me on each side on a three lane freeway, going downhill, I bought an Equal-I-zer hitch and have been sway free since then.
Those so-called anti-sway bars are stupidly ineffective, they don't start working until AFTER the sway has started so its hit and miss if they will keep you from crashing. While I recommend an Equal-i-zer there are several other hitches out there these days (however, many of those are Equal-i-zer knock offs so get the real thing) that don't need sway bars. Protect your family and get something that works.


I disagree with just about everything you posted and it appears you don't understand how these systems actually work. A properly adjusted and installed (i.e. more than one for longer trailers) "friction bar" system IMO is just about as effective as any of the other friction based systems (Equal-i-zer, Reese, etc.). They begin operating any time there is a rotational movement of the trailer tongue on the TV hitch ball and NOT as you stated "after sway has started" just like such systems as the Equal-i-zer and Reese do. The biggest advantage IMO of the integrated systems is they as more or less adjustment free except for the "socket pivet bolt torque" on the Equal-i-zer system. Also, there are not the "backing concerns" with them as you need to be aware of with the "friction bar" type system.

Larry


Well I totally disagree with your post. Anti-sway bars are dangerous and don't work in all situations, Equal-I-zers do and have saved my life. Sorry, I do understand how these things work based reality based on 30 years of experience.


Well everyone else that has posted here .... Huntindog, jerem0621, hussbuss, Vintage465 agree with me and disagree with you on friction sway bars, and confirm that they are safe, effective and work very much like the integrated systems like Equal-i-zer, and Reese performance wise.

You must like being the LONE WOLF man out, but each to his own.

Larry

tewitt1949

Sparta Michigan

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Joined: 01/31/2004

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Posted: 09/16/18 06:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I started a post about the exact same thing a couple days ago. Got lot of good answers and points. I've already got the second way bar and got it ready to go. I am leaving next weekend for a road trip for a week. I've been pulling trailers for 20 years and I think I've got hang of it. I always put max pressure in all the tires. In the past I've had only one friction sway bar. It didn't sway going down the road but would only wiggle when a semi would pass.

Last trip I did tighten the sway bar up tighter and it did make a big difference, thats why I thought I'd try 2 sway bars.

I will let you know how it worked after the trip next week (9-22).

I am quite confident 2 friction sway bars is a good way to go. I bought the used sway bar on craigs list for $25.00. Bought the 2 balls for about $15 each. I welded the 2nd arm on my hitch myself.

* This post was edited 09/16/18 08:02pm by tewitt1949 *


Terry Witt

Lynnmor

Red Lion

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Posted: 10/09/21 08:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yang07 wrote:

{SNIP} Please ignore me. I'm just a spammer.


I'll get right on that!

* This post was edited 10/26/21 02:14pm by an administrator/moderator *





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