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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  All

 > Storage compartment pans sagging, separating from sidewalls

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Chum lee

Albuquerque, NM

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Posted: 09/28/18 05:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Unfortunately, in these days that's pretty much par for the course. At least half the work I do to my Class A is putting back together pieces (like what you did) that IMO should have been assembled differently in the first place. About all you can do is be thankful YOU found the defect(s) before more damage was done, and, be glad you had the time/ability/tools to do something about it. It never ends.

I just saw a +20 minute video of a 1987 Airstream Class A MH for sale on Youtube. (very rare) Wow. That 34 footer was still clean, dry, tight, and in great condition. Airstream knew how to build things right!

Chum lee

bobndot

USA

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Posted: 09/29/18 03:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bruce Mc, you're an inspiration. [emoticon]

Geez, shame on me for not noticing this when I bought it. Double shame on FR for installing something that can fall out , spilling its contents all over the highway possibly injuring someone. [emoticon]

After closer examination of my Sunseeker bins I noticed that your bins seem to sit higher than mine . You have framework around the bottom exterior of your bins that I don't have to install support crossbars, I have nothing to drill into .
My bins are only supported by the top inside plastic lip which is just screwed in place on the edges.

As for now, only light (very light) items will be carried in those bins. I emptied the heavy stuff .
I will cut plywood covers and allow the inside wooden edge of the compartments framework to support the new wood bin covers. I will then have the plastic OEM bin for light items and heavier items on top of the new wood lids. I have a few more trips left this season and will see how things go, storage wise.

Maybe next year I will weld up two 3" wide straps with 90 degree angles and attach them to the interior right and left edges , run them down the interior sides and across the bottom of the bins.
I will make a new plywood bottom to rest on the 3" bottom straps as a full bottom support. My goal is to keep weight off the plastic bin.
When I do it, I will post step by step pix. When I do this can I call it the 'BruceMc II project' ? [emoticon]

Thanks again for caring and posting what you did, I think you might have saved me a big headache.
Bob

BruceMc

Oregon - Willamette Valley

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Posted: 09/29/18 08:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gee Bob, I'm at a loss for words... thanks for the compliment!

I have several other projects in the queue. One that is planned for this winter is to replace all the MDF counter tops with solid surface. Part of what started the desire to replace them was that one of those dreaded bubbles appeared in the counter top just to the right and forward of the sink. Apparently the sealant around the sink is insufficient, and after a couple years of cleanings & moisture, water seeped in under the lip & into the unsealed MDF. (Medium Density Fiberboard, aka furnitureboard) Upon arriving home, I rigged up some boards & put pressure on the bubble, and it disappeared as it dried. Now having a reason to replace them, we wanted to shrink the sink size and change to a rectangular shape so we'd have more counter space.
But I digress....

bobndot wrote:


After closer examination of my Sunseeker bins I noticed that your bins seem to sit higher than mine . You have framework around the bottom exterior of your bins that I don't have to install support crossbars, I have nothing to drill into .
My bins are only supported by the top inside plastic lip which is just screwed in place on the edges.


Sounds similar to mine... the lip is/was attached to the inside of the inner side of the sidewall by a few screws & adhesive, and suspended from other points around the pan.
It looks like it has support along the hatch opening, but its only because the inside of the sidewall is covered in a thin black woven plastic sheeting, much like blue tarp material. Behind that is the same wall as you'd see inside the coach, which covers luan and adhered to foam. There should be wooden and/or aluminum framing around the hatch openings. This is why the brackets on the outer ends extends up between the pan and sidewall, so I could attach them to the hatch framing inside the compartment.
This image may be a bit misleading, as I had slid the putty knife between the pan and sidewall. You can see the end of the putty knife:

[image]

Conversely, the inner sides are a couple inches from the frame rails, which is spanned by the brackets. See the last image in my original set:

[image]


'16 Forest River Sunseeker 2250SLEC Chevrolet 6.0L
Previously:
'00 Four Winds 26Q Class C (Ford E350 V10)
'96 Kit Sportsmaster 212f Fifth Wheel/'93 GMC Sierra K2500
'91 SunLite poptop truck camper
and the first: a Wildernest flip-top canopy.


BruceMc

Oregon - Willamette Valley

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Posted: 09/29/18 08:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bobndot wrote:


Maybe next year I will weld up two 3" wide straps with 90 degree angles and attach them to the interior right and left edges , run them down the interior sides and across the bottom of the bins.
I will make a new plywood bottom to rest on the 3" bottom straps as a full bottom support. My goal is to keep weight off the plastic bin.
When I do it, I will post step by step pix. When I do this can I call it the 'BruceMc II project' ? [emoticon]



I like it!

I'll post a few images once I complete the passenger side compartment, probably today. The brackets needed a bit of modification as that compartment is a bit different.

BruceMc

Oregon - Willamette Valley

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Posted: 09/30/18 11:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Project complete.

Here's the second compartment on the passenger side:

Looking in:

[image]

Same issue as the drivers side:

[image]

Brackets constructed and installed, inner frame rail details:

[image]

Outer end detail before caulking - this is the material that lines the inside of the outside walls. Our old Four Winds had tin on these surfaces:

[image]

Full view - someone got carried away with the caulk, thus it was spread far and wide....:

[image]

Final result, floor is flat and supported. You can see the rails through the translucent pan material:

[image]

The plywood I had in my "stock" was a bit warped,

[image]

but will settle out over time with a load:

[image]

Next, I added 6 screws to the forward compartment just aft of the side entry door as it had just three; the new screws are in the pilot holes, ready to be set. Nothing else was needed with this compartment:

[image]

Back to the driver's side compartment; Plywood installed:

[image]

and loaded with a few things. I usually put my equipment box here; it contains a boy's axe, bow saw, small toolbox, flares, hitch ball mount, etc, so it weighs around 20-30 lbs. Additionally, the lawn chairs and other larger items go into this compartment:

[image]

BTW, many of the images of these Sunseeker Projects can be found in my image galleries.

Now that this project is complete, I'm off to other projects in my copious spare time between work and other issues life throws at us..

I'm happy to hear it has helped others as well.

--Bruce.

houstonstroker

Houston, TX

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Posted: 10/03/18 10:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a Dynamax on a Freightliner chassis. This is what I did.

before[image] border="0" alt="[image]">

after[image][/img]

2016 Dynamax Force HD Super C

pnichols

The Other California

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Posted: 10/03/18 12:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You might want to check out this discussion thread:
https://forums.trailerlife.com/index.cfm........d/29756621/gotomsg/29757166.cfm#29757166

AbdRahim

What

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Posted: 11/29/18 02:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When mine was brand new, it visited a local body shop several times to address the root sat separating front to outer wall of the MH.

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