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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Preventing freezing pipes during the shoulder season

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swimmer_spe

Sudbury, Ontario, Canada

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Posted: 10/09/18 10:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I plan on using my trailer well into November. I want to still use the water system without a burst pipe.

Typically, it does get a little below freezing. Besides draining the lines, or keeping the furnace going 24/7, how can I reduce the chances of ice forming in the lines?

Would it be better if the lines were under pressure or not?

In short, I don't want to winterize the water lines yet, nor do I wan a burst pipe.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 10/09/18 11:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi,

Replace the return air grill for the furnace with a twin window fan. I have mine on a thermostat at the water pump. It draw a scant 27 watts so is easily run on an inverter.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

KM Rolling

Byhalia Mississippi

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Posted: 10/10/18 02:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

Hi,

Replace the return air grill for the furnace with a twin window fan. I have mine on a thermostat at the water pump. It draw a scant 27 watts so is easily run on an inverter.


Interested in this, can you explain in more detail, and/or do you have some photo's?


Kevin & Mary
Byhalia, MS
2018 Ford F150 3.5 EB MX TW HD PYLD 8' Bed
2018 Blast TH


2oldman

NM

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Posted: 10/10/18 04:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A little below freezing is not a big threat.

JaxDad

Greater Toronto Area

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Posted: 10/10/18 05:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I put a bypass around my water pump with isolation valves.

When freezing temps threaten all I need to do is bypass the pump, open the city water fill port, open all the taps for a few minutes to allow siphoning to work, then the taps one at a time and give a puff of compressed air in each.

The vast majority of the water drops back to the tank not leaving enough behind to be an issue in anything but a hard freeze for sustained periods.

wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 10/10/18 06:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Takes both time and COLD to freeze. I mean it is not like

35, 34, 33, ICE, 31 more like 5,4,3,2,1,0, and an hour later ICE.

Some of this depends on the construction of your trailer.

IF the tanks are fully enclosed (DO NOT FORGET THE WASTE TANKS AND LINES WHICH ON A TRAILER ALMOST ARE ALWAYS EXPOSED) you can sometimes put additional HEAT in the lines... I have been down to 11 degrees w/o damage by adding a string of C-9 Christmas tree lamps (About 270 watts) under my fresh tank and a 100 watt rough service lamp (Caged. Like A Tunnel lamp) in the waste end of the bay. I also added a 150 watt heater that night. Park .. Well one building was totaled and the park had to be fully re-plumbed cause it was not designed for 11 degrees but I survived with no damage. one line froze but PEX can survive that. (Heat at both ends)

Heat tape on the exposed pipes

You can get peel and stick "Panels" that heat up the tanks as well if you can access.

Though I think they are a bit pricey.

Several other options.


Home is where I park it.
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 10/10/18 07:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here is an example of what I use:

dual fan

[image]

I've tested this to -27 C (-17 F)
KM Rolling wrote:

Interested in this, can you explain in more detail, and/or do you have some photo's?


pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 10/10/18 08:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For a long thread on winter camping surf here:

https://forums.goodsamclub.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24160748.cfm

GordonThree

Northern Michigan

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Posted: 10/10/18 08:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm up to 240 watts in DC heating pads, 120 on my holding and another 120 in my aux fresh tank in the truck.

Also have heat trace on the drains and some fresh plumbing.

My


2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
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GordonThree

Northern Michigan

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Posted: 10/10/18 08:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

KM Rolling wrote:

pianotuna wrote:

Hi,

Replace the return air grill for the furnace with a twin window fan. I have mine on a thermostat at the water pump. It draw a scant 27 watts so is easily run on an inverter.


Interested in this, can you explain in more detail, and/or do you have some photo's?


KM,

Does your trailer have duct heat?

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