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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Help with floor ducted furnace, lack of air flow

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wrktfsh

Here n there

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Posted: 11/12/18 10:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I used a 35 dollar WiFi endoscope from amazon to ferret out the problem with a weak a/c vent. Turned out that tape sealing the plenum got pushed over that run.

fairlaniac

Denver, PA (Lancaster County)

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Posted: 11/12/18 10:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dusty R wrote:

fairlaniac wrote:

On the way home I had a thought. I should have removed one of the block off discs to verify air is pushing from the unit. That thought came after 2 hours of driving[emoticon]


Those block off discs, are knock out plugs, and once removed will not stay back in.

Be very careful what you use to push down a duct as it is quite likely you could poke a hole in it.

Dusty

Actually the plugs are discs that have an indexing tab and twist to lock.

That is my concern about poking in the duct work. I assume to access the duct work you must pull up the floor? Lets not go there yet [emoticon]


Thanks,
Doug
2001 Springdale 370BHLGL by Keystone

midnightsadie

ohio

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Posted: 11/12/18 11:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

you could drill a hole in the duct work ,use camera then buy a plastic plug for the hole.

fairlaniac

Denver, PA (Lancaster County)

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Posted: 11/12/18 11:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

midnightsadie wrote:

you could drill a hole in the duct work ,use camera then buy a plastic plug for the hole.


How would you access any of the ductwork? As seen in the picture at the top of the post, the furnace unit sits over an opening (I assume) and feeds the below floor level ducts.

TUCQUALA

Kennewick, WA

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Posted: 11/12/18 12:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you can get to the screw hidden behind the cabinet reinforcement, and remove the end cover, you will have wide open access to the entry under the furnace. That may be the first area for blockage or duct being disconnected.


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SageCrispin

Middle Tennessee

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Posted: 11/12/18 12:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't you just pull up your floor vents to get into the ducts? Mine are screwed down, but other than that they lift right up for cleaning. If that photo is similar to your RV, the one vent is near enough to the "T" to see in there. My endoscope is like a stiff wire, so can be bent and fed around corners. You may have to get one similar.


We've run out in the house, but the RV has two.

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RAS43

Littleton,CO

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Posted: 11/12/18 12:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You should be able to remove the floor registers and run the scope thru the duck work that way. You would not need to tear out the floor as the duckwork is below the floor and should be accessible from under the trailer.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 11/12/18 12:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fairlaniac wrote:

Dusty R wrote:

fairlaniac wrote:

On the way home I had a thought. I should have removed one of the block off discs to verify air is pushing from the unit. That thought came after 2 hours of driving[emoticon]


Those block off discs, are knock out plugs, and once removed will not stay back in.

Be very careful what you use to push down a duct as it is quite likely you could poke a hole in it.

Dusty

Actually the plugs are discs that have an indexing tab and twist to lock.

That is my concern about poking in the duct work. I assume to access the duct work you must pull up the floor? Lets not go there yet [emoticon]

Sorry, those are KNOCK OUT PLUGS. The Indexing tabs are used for the 4 inch metal collar that HAS a Tab to go into and turn to lock it in. You can knock them out, but NOT NEEDED for your problem. If you do knock them out just use metal foil tape to reinstall and block the hole. It is a whole lot easier to take the furnace loose and lift it up to see what and how the furnace is connected to the in floor duct assbly. Doug

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 11/12/18 12:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you have a blockage, the furnace burner would short cycle and you would hear it cut on and off. Doug

time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 11/12/18 06:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

If you have a blockage, the furnace burner would short cycle and you would hear it cut on and off. Doug
Yes mine did this. Fan would run continuous but if you really paid attention the burner would cycle on and off every 30 to 90 seconds.

My ducting had a few issues. First the short section from furnace to main line protruded 40% into the main line and blocked airflow. Secondly the short section collapsed during installation and was restricted. Flashlight and mirror found these issues.

Used a hole saw to open the metal protruding into the main line. Used some square aluminum that I perforated for air flow as a scaffold to prop open the collapsed section.

Helped some but the real solution was to pop out two of those knock-outs and add two more 4" ducts direct to the living area. Now I get tons of massive heat compared to before. Burner runs continuous until heat gets to the thermostat. Far less furnace fan run time.


2001 F150 SuperCrew
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