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 > New to RVing Class A advice needed

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jplante4

Cape Cod

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Posted: 01/02/19 02:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A few nice looking Foretravels on rvt.com in that price range.


Jerry & Jeanne
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Vader4lg

Charlotte NC

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Posted: 01/02/19 05:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Any suggestions for RV rental in NC/Charlotte area?

Tom/Barb

Oak Harbor, Wa

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Posted: 01/02/19 07:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mike brez wrote:

Looks like in needs some longer wiper blades.
That would drive me nuts.


Prolly wouldn't hurt. looks like ya got room.

We have friends with one very close to that one, they have spent very little on maintenance other than routine tires, oil changes, grease jobs. in 85k miles


2000 Newmar mountain aire 4081 DP, ISC/350 Allison 6 speed, Wrangler JK toad.

Veebyes

Bermuda & Maryland Eastern Shore

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Posted: 01/03/19 07:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Consider that the older it is the cheaper it is HOWEVER, this can be false economics. While I would not buy new I would also not buy very old because of the super cheap price.

There are expensive things that age simply over time. Engine hoses age & get brittle. If not discovered & changed before failure what is an expensive maintenance job becomes extremely expensive. Rubber suspension & steering bushing wear with use & become brittle over time. Something else that is not cheap to deal with.

I don't know what the percentage is for class A RVs but for boats the rule of thumb is 10% of its new cost per year for maintenance & repairs. The first few years the percentage is lower with everything being new, however as time goes by the costs increase till at some point you are in for a very expensive overhaul.


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Tom/Barb

Oak Harbor, Wa

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Posted: 01/03/19 09:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Veebyes wrote:

Consider that the older it is the cheaper it is HOWEVER, this can be false economics. While I would not buy new I would also not buy very old because of the super cheap price.

There are expensive things that age simply over time. Engine hoses age & get brittle. If not discovered & changed before failure what is an expensive maintenance job becomes extremely expensive. Rubber suspension & steering bushing wear with use & become brittle over time. Something else that is not cheap to deal with.


maintenance and previous care is very easy to inspect and the condition of the coach is easy to see.

ncrowley

Utah

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Posted: 01/03/19 10:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I agree with the brand recommendations you have been given. Stay with the better made coaches.

The most important thing for me is a complete set of maintenance records, which means they knew what the maintenance schedule for all the components are, tracked and did them, and have records to prove it. You want one that has been well cared for.


Nancy
Newmar Northern Star


Tom/Barb

Oak Harbor, Wa

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Posted: 01/03/19 11:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ncrowley wrote:

I agree with the brand recommendations you have been given. Stay with the better made coaches.

The most important thing for me is a complete set of maintenance records, which means they knew what the maintenance schedule for all the components are, tracked and did them, and have records to prove it. You want one that has been well cared for.


I consider our coach well cared for,, others may not. [emoticon] but an easy inspection will show all receipts for major maintenance and who did them. a quick look in the engine compartment will show all kevlar and silicone hoses and belts, date codes on tires will show 4 at 6 years old and two on front at 2 years.
The care and maintenance is not difficult to see, but you must know what you are looking at and for.
But still, a test drive is a must, and a full system operation test of all house appliances is one thing I'd insist on.

Vader4lg

Charlotte NC

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Posted: 01/03/19 08:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tom/Barb wrote:

ncrowley wrote:

I agree with the brand recommendations you have been given. Stay with the better made coaches.

The most important thing for me is a complete set of maintenance records, which means they knew what the maintenance schedule for all the components are, tracked and did them, and have records to prove it. You want one that has been well cared for.


I consider our coach well cared for,, others may not. [emoticon] but an easy inspection will show all receipts for major maintenance and who did them. a quick look in the engine compartment will show all kevlar and silicone hoses and belts, date codes on tires will show 4 at 6 years old and two on front at 2 years.
The care and maintenance is not difficult to see, but you must know what you are looking at and for.
But still, a test drive is a must, and a full system operation test of all house appliances is one thing I'd insist on.


Good deal. Thanks so much guys.

Solo

NE Kansas

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Posted: 01/05/19 03:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You've been given good advice from this group that comes from years of experience. "Been there, done that" comments will help you sift through some of the mistakes that new RVers make who don't listen and learn from others.

Another item to consider and I certainly do not want to turn this into a driver's license discussion because you can find this topic hammered over and over, but it looks like if you happen to be licensed to drive in NC, you will need at least a Class B non-commercial license to legally drive many of the DP rigs that have been suggested. Check with the state that you are licensed in as that will be reciprocal with all others.

From the NC Driver's License Handbook

"You do not need a CDL to drive recreational vehicles... However, a regular license of the appropriate class is required at all times.
Class B Motor Vehicle:
• A single motor vehicle that has a GVWR of at least 26,001 pounds.
• A combination of motor vehicles that includes as part of the combination a
towing unit that has a GVWR of at least 26,001 pounds and a towed unit that
has a GVWR of less than 10,001 pounds."

Do your own research on this-don't rely on me or someone else who are not giving you official advice. Stop into a convenient DMV licensing office in your state and find out for yourself.

Have fun finding that new rig!


Solo
2011 Itasca Ellipse 42QD, 450 HP ISL Cummins
2012 Jeep JKU with SMI DUO Braking System
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