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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Leveling with half of a Lynx block??

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profdant139

Southern California

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Posted: 01/11/19 05:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

By the way, the Lynx blocks appear to be about an inch and a half thick, in answer to the question above.


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Boomerweps

Hills of PA

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Posted: 01/12/19 08:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

profdant139 wrote:

By the way, the Lynx blocks appear to be about an inch and a half thick, in answer to the question above.

The Lynx leveling blocks are 8.5 x 8.5 x 1.5 inches. When stacking, each layer provides a ONE INCH lift. The extra .5" is the interlocking top protrusions. Courtesy of the factory website, just looked to confirm my faulty memory [emoticon]
So for the mathematically inclined it makes it easier to compute angles and blocks needed.


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Boomerweps

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Posted: 01/12/19 08:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SoundGuy wrote:

Boomerweps wrote:

Where did you find the Lynx half width blocks? What is their proper name for a search?


Lynx manufacturer doesn't offer half Lynx so I made my own, cutting them on my table saw.


So you showed pics of the "better halves" [emoticon]
The reason I thought they were factory was because if you put the two pictured together, it looks like you would have cut through several reinforcing edges the long thin way. I might pick up another set of these to make a few halves. I have 2 sets of ten now but I have needed all twenty before at a CG for leveling.
I searched fruitlessly, a lot of sales websites and even found the factory website, for those things!

drsteve

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Posted: 01/12/19 09:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fj12ryder wrote:

DutchmenSport wrote:

discovery4us wrote:

I guess I have been doing it wrong. I get close with blocks and then always fine tuned with the leveling jacks. It isn't uncommon for me to lift the trailer an 1" or more with the jacks. I actually find that putting a little extra into each jack helps take the tire and suspension bounce away.


Some of us are just too picky, I suppose! Funny, with my new 5er that has the 6 point self-leveling system, I am at the point now where if it's close, that's good enough, because the leveling system will take care of the difference ... as long as it's close.
It's not that some are too picky, it's that some builders strongly advise against using the stabilizer jacks to do any lifting. Stabilizing only. I guess they figure lifting just one corner of a trailer could put a lot of stress on the frame. Dunno. Guess that's why they call them stabilizing jacks and not leveling jacks.


Not just the frame, but the walls too. When you try to level with stabilizers, it is easy to move the side walls enough to cause the entry door to not close correctly.


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rockhillmanor

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Posted: 01/12/19 06:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

You said putting a board under the plastic lynx blocks results in everything slipping when you drive on the stack.


You are supposed to pyramid the blocks. So the tire climbs the pyramid which eliminates any slipping.

[image]

And yes you will have to buy a second pack to use when a higher lift is needed so you can pyramid the blocks properly.


We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us.


bucky

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Posted: 01/13/19 05:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We sure get bored in the colder months don't we. I've seen RVs more than a foot out of level more than once and the occupants were happy as clams.


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fj12ryder

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Posted: 01/13/19 08:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bucky wrote:

We sure get bored in the colder months don't we. I've seen RVs more than a foot out of level more than once and the occupants were happy as clams.
Some people may be fine that way, others, including the OP, are not. He was asking for suggestions that will help with his wife's inability to tolerate out-of-level conditions. A little tolerance is a wonderful thing.


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profdant139

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Posted: 01/13/19 09:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rockhill mentioned the issue of slipping. Whether I put a piece of plywood under the stack or over it, the plywood does not stay perfectly in place. The Lynx blocks, of course, move as a unit, since they are interconnected.

That is why I think that the best solutions are (1) a thick rubber mat (which should not slip in contact with the blocks) or (2) putting the plywood under the higher tire if needed, in order to avoid the dreaded "in between the blocks" syndrome, described above.

I should add that since we do a lot of boondocking in very rough terrain, this whole issue is not just theoretical. We are not on a concrete pad, or even on gravel -- we are often on a mix of rocks and dirt.

Finally, since I am lucky enough to have a spouse who loves really remote boondocking, I will happily do whatever it takes to keep her happy - - if that means fiddling around with the leveling blocks, I will do that!! [emoticon]

wnjj

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Posted: 01/13/19 09:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I’m one of those who likes it really level too for some of the following reasons:

1. If my head is even 1/2” lower than my feet it feels like I’m doing a headstand when sleeping (little exaggeration there but I can tell). This is front to back on our truck camper.

2. While the fridge will run fine a little out of level, I hate when I open the door and it keeps shutting on my arm when I’m getting stuff in or out.

3. Even fry and egg or make pancakes? It’s tough when they run to one side of the pan.

wnjj

Cornelius, Oregon

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Posted: 01/13/19 09:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For the OP: In case you’re in a spot where Dutchman’s idea won’t work because you’re short of Lynx, drill several holes in your plywood spacers so you can use zip ties to tether them under or on top of the Lynx. If you don’t need them next time, just cut them free.

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