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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Dometic RM2652 not cooling

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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 01/22/19 07:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I can't now get the fridge in our rig to cool down on 120v, but it does fine on gas. There is confirmed 120v to the receptacle the fridge is plugged into. A couple months ago I ran a test from the portable gen with the fridge on 120v and a Kill-a- Watt meter that showed the fridge was pulling about 350 watts. All good.

Now just plugged into its own receptacle (120v confirmed) the Kill a Watt shows no watts draw at all and no cooling is happening in the fridge. I have not found why not yet, but I expect to eventually.

Point being, these things are not very sensible in how they act, so don't spend any big money right away until you are sure what's what.


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on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI

Travelin2

SW Florida

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Posted: 01/22/19 07:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Unplug the thermistor
Turn Fridge ON using Electric and let it RUN at least 12 Hrs to really determine IF you have cooling issues

Freezer has to get down to 10*F BEFORE Food compartment can effectively cool down

After 4 hrs of operation with thermistor unplugged you should feel coldness on backwall of freezer and the far right fins in food compartment.
But need HOURS of continuous operation to really make a judgment

Age is NOT a real factor as there are no moving parts.
Time operated 'off level' is the real killer


Old Biscuit, That's how I have it set and will report what it's doing in the morn. Thanks.


John & Gloria
South West, Florida
2002 Bigfoot 25B21RB
2012 Avalanche Black Diamond LTZ 4x4


Travelin2

SW Florida

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Posted: 01/22/19 08:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:

Travelin2 wrote:

We bought a 2002 Bigfoot trailer recently and I knew the fridge may be questionable because the rig sat for a long time without any operation of the appliances. The fridge cools a bit when running on 120AC but when on gas it does nothing. The gas burner lights and runs very nicely with a clean blue flame. It relights immediately when I blow it out and the flue is hot with lots of heat escaping out the top of the tube with the baffle in it. I unplugged the thermistor at the circuit board and ran it on gas for about 3 hours. At the end of that time the coils and the big canister at the bottom of the coils was just ambient temperature. I have wireless temp sensors inside the freezer and fridge and no temperature change whatsoever...still ambient temp. I'm not sure why it cooled some while on the electric heater???

I am thinking the cooling unit is Tits Up. I would be interested to hear what you may think. I appreciate any and all views and opinions...thanks.

John


I have a 2000 Bigfoot, what model is yours?
Mine died in 2014, bought a cooling unit (new Amish) from cooling unit warehouse and installed myself. Runs great now, even in 115 degrees.


Ours is a 2002 25B21RB

jkwilson

Indiana

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Posted: 01/22/19 08:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

I can't now get the fridge in our rig to cool down on 120v, but it does fine on gas. There is confirmed 120v to the receptacle the fridge is plugged into. A couple months ago I ran a test from the portable gen with the fridge on 120v and a Kill-a- Watt meter that showed the fridge was pulling about 350 watts. All good.

Now just plugged into its own receptacle (120v confirmed) the Kill a Watt shows no watts draw at all and no cooling is happening in the fridge. I have not found why not yet, but I expect to eventually.

Point being, these things are not very sensible in how they act, so don't spend any big money right away until you are sure what's what.


Should be an easy fix. New heating element and 5 minutes.


John & Kathy
2014 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
2014 F250 SBCC 6.2L 3.73

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 01/22/19 08:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jkwilson wrote:

BFL13 wrote:

I can't now get the fridge in our rig to cool down on 120v, but it does fine on gas. There is confirmed 120v to the receptacle the fridge is plugged into. A couple months ago I ran a test from the portable gen with the fridge on 120v and a Kill-a- Watt meter that showed the fridge was pulling about 350 watts. All good.

Now just plugged into its own receptacle (120v confirmed) the Kill a Watt shows no watts draw at all and no cooling is happening in the fridge. I have not found why not yet, but I expect to eventually.

Point being, these things are not very sensible in how they act, so don't spend any big money right away until you are sure what's what.


Should be an easy fix. New heating element and 5 minutes.


Exactly^^^

Fridge not swapping from electric to gas means 120V AC is present to AND ON circuit board.
Could be bad element.


Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
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Off the road still Debt Free Jan. '14

jkwilson

Indiana

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Posted: 01/23/19 04:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Handiest tool that exists for troubleshooting absorption refrigerator problems is a small power cord with spade terminals on the ends. You can unplug the refrigerator and the plug the heating element directly into the outlet via the power cord. This should make the refrigerator cool wide open and within a day everything should be very cold.

If this doesn't work, the cooling unit is almost certainly bad if the element is ohmed to spec.

midnightsadie

ohio

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Posted: 01/23/19 05:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SOUND gUY not everybody has your luck. some take longer some less.

Travelin2

SW Florida

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Posted: 01/23/19 06:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Last night I set the fridge to electric(Auto) and unplugged the thermistor from the board. As you can see it got very cold inside the freezer and refrigerator compartment. I turned it off and opened the doors to let things get warmed back up. In a awhile I will restart it on gas and see if that session on electric woke something up. I can't figure why it didn't cool on gas when the flame seemed to run so nicely.
[image]

SoundGuy

S Ontario

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Posted: 01/23/19 07:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

midnightsadie wrote:

SOUND gUY not everybody has your luck. some take longer some less.


Has nothing to do with "luck". I've owned several 6 cu ft gas absorption fridges, both Norcold and Dometic, and all have cooled sufficiently from ambient temperatures to usable in ~ 4 hrs, but certainly no less than that. The only other gas absorption fridges I've owned that have taken longer are the much smaller sub 2 cu ft manual light fridges that are typically installed in popups.


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2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
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Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 01/23/19 07:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Travelin2 wrote:

Last night I set the fridge to electric(Auto) and unplugged the thermistor from the board. As you can see it got very cold inside the freezer and refrigerator compartment. I turned it off and opened the doors to let things get warmed back up. In a awhile I will restart it on gas and see if that session on electric woke something up. I can't figure why it didn't cool on gas when the flame seemed to run so nicely.
[image]


OK now you know cooling unit is functioning correctly
Propane should do the same provided:
*LP Propane System Pressure is 11"WC (0.4 psi) ----10"WC (0.36 psi) will still produce a clean blue flame but that 0.04 psi difference will NOT produce same amount of HEAT needed to transfer to boiler section
*Flue/Flue baffle rusty---can't absorb/transfer required heat to boiler section
*Flame should reach just inside flue opening and be strong/steady flame---BLUE

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