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 > Dead batteries woes

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lamoz1

Van nuys , CA

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Posted: 02/06/19 10:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello

Well I've been at it for months now and cannot figure what is draining both my house and chassis batteries. 99 bounder with a cut off switch for both. I cut off the chassis battery and can hear a click at the control box. Most things shut off, like the ignition and power step, but have noticed it still has power to the cigarette lighter, LP detector, power to the generator and maybe the fridge. I don't think the cut off switch does anything to the house batteries. Both batteries are less than 4 months old, a marine rv for house and regular battery for chassis. I turn the generator at least 1hr per day to keep them topped off but sometimes I come to find one battery dead or both in less than
a day. I've use a multi meter to find a drain and I get none. When running the generator my chassis battery is not getting charge, instead is being drained as is connected to the generator and needs 12v to run if I'm not mistaken. This whole issue is making me pull my hair, since I will be living in it for a few months with no shore power.

suggestion are welcomed. Thank you

wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 02/06/19 10:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

First: IF the batteries are disconnected.. In "Store" mode. they WILL NOT CHARGE and in fact the generator should not start either.

If the batteries are not being charged by the generator first check the breakers on the Genny. Should be two. if your rig is 50 amps one runs half the RV the other the other half ONE runs the converter. (It is on one or the other halves)

On a 30 amp RV one runs most everything the other one A/C.

Then check the breaker box. Make sure you don't have a tripped CONV breaker (I've had that)

IF like mine your converter is a "plug in" model. Make sure it's plugged in (YES I've had to do that several times)

Now we test the converter itself. And post the results.
Measure output voltage

There may also be a fuse or trippe circuit breaker in the line.


IF you have a big INVERTER/CHARGER.. Well post that and we will modify the sequence.

Next


Home is where I park it.
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path1

Varies with weather

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Posted: 02/06/19 02:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On my class C (if class matters what class) after installing a battery disconnect, my battery would still go dead. After messing around with volt meter, found one fuse that still had power and powers a couple things (alarms and 1 light) even with disconnect in the off position. I pulled that fuse and it solved my battery draining problem. I have to do more exploring but that particular fuse is powered by both the house battery and chassis battery. Apparently it was wired so as long as any battery had juice, the alarm and a night light would work. Don't know if wiring is OEM or previous owner?

RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

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Posted: 02/06/19 02:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In your RV Custom Products Battery Control Center (BCC) is a silver isolator relay. It is probably the reason your chassis battery is not charging when on generator or shore power. It will also keep your house batteries from charging when the engine is running. That relay has a high failure rate. When replacing, make sure you purchase a "Continues Duty" relay. The 2 battery bank disconnect relays are also in the BCC. They are in a black plastic housing.
The cigarette lighter and propane detector are intentionally left connected, by Fleetwood, when the batteries are disconnected.
When you push the AUX battery cut off switch to off, the house batteries should be disconnected.
Your propane detector is powered from both battery banks.


Richard
95 Bounder

* This post was edited 02/06/19 02:38pm by RLS7201 *


If I had a dollar for every girl that found me unattractive,
they would eventually, find me attractive.

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MrWizard

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Posted: 02/06/19 03:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I don't know how much Battery power you use everyday
But I can tell you
With me, the pc, lights, furnace to stay warm
One hour is not enough generator powered converter charging time
And I have a 75 amp charge converter
Yours is possibly 45 amp
With the rainy cool weather, you might need 3 to 4 hours everyday
And a 8 to 10 hour run one day a week

Batteries have to brought back to full complete charge at least once a week When full-time,
and that means they reach a charge state of less than 1 amp going in. with a voltage above 14.4v at the batteries

Continued partial charging everyday just means the batteries performance fades as they slowly Die


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twodownzero

NM

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Posted: 02/06/19 07:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have 400 watts of solar and my batteries are never dead. Plenty of extra juice. I can even check battery status with my phone, bluetooth. But if you have a drain and not just more load than you're replenishing, or bad batteries, solar won't fix it.

Gjac

Milford, CT

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Posted: 02/07/19 09:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The easiest way to resolve your problem is to disconnect your neg cable and measure the amp draw between the neg cable and neg post by inserting the leads of your multimeter between the two on the 10 amp scale with the MH not plugged into shore power. If you see more than an amp, say 2 or 3 amps start pulling your 12 v fuses until you see the amp draw bellow 1 amp. You may find that something is left on. If on the other hand you see less than 1 amp I would suspect that you have not fully charged either your house or chassis batteries. Do you have a portable battery charger? Most portables charge at least 10 amps. What type and how many amp converter charger do you have on board your MH? On older MH's they may only charge at 5 amps. Charge until both batteries say full then disconnect the neg cable, if the batteries are good they should hold a charge for several months. Let us know how you make out.

* This post was edited 02/07/19 09:45am by Gjac *

MrWizard

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Posted: 02/07/19 10:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My 97 Bounder , 36ft with slide out, came with a 55 amp converter, but it was only 13.8v

I suspect the OP has something similar

My converter is in the outside bay/compartment under the kitchen, next to the entry door
The (2) 6v house batteries are up front behind the grill
The voltage at the batteries was always too low for a proper charge
I changed the converter to a power max adjustable voltage 75 amp model
And then added a third battery, a 200 ampHr deka 4d AGM
I put it in the compartment, it's a sealed a AGM, and there is ventilation in the compartment

steved28

Bellingham,MA,USA

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Posted: 02/07/19 12:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Clamp-on DC ammeter. Best investment I ever made in tracking down current draw.


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lamoz1

Van nuys , CA

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Posted: 02/07/19 12:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I will check on all this on Saturday. I notice some people use (2) 6v batteries. Is there
and advantage to this? I'm using a single 12v but have bought another one so I'll be running (2)
12v batteries for the house.

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