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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > What chassis battery cutoff switch do you like?

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MEXICOWANDERER

las peñas, michoacan, mexico

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Posted: 03/13/19 01:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Naio what you are describing is a high-amperage latching relay with a push-on, push-off remote control switch.

No question a mechanical operated switch would be the cheapest and most reliable.

There is no question that a mechanical switch is light years more durable than an electrically operated switch with no idle current draw

AMAZON AMAZON AMAZON AMAZON


Cllena High Current Heavy-Duty Master Battery Disconnect Switch with Face Plate
by Cllena

Price: $29.99 Free Shipping for Prime Members

But you will have to buy a new longer cable from someone like genuinedealz.com

Then a 2nd new cable that runs from the new battery disconnect switch to the chassis frame.

Yes this switches battery negative ground not the + side of the battery.

Work out the details as to the optimum place for the switch. Easy access from both inside the coach and outside under the floorboard. From an engine compartment battery I have seen these switches mounted through the floorboard. On the passenger side.

My rationale of using the - ground side for switching is the same as Caterpillar's.

I have seen far too many switching electronic failures when a magnetically controlled solenoid is used. A big block V8 10MT Chevrolet starter can easily draw 280 amperes then slug the system with a humongous voltage spike after the ignition switch is returned to "run" from the "start" position.

http://www.genuinedeals.com

Measure carefully with twine then order custom fit cables from this company.


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mbopp

Henrietta, NY, USA

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Posted: 03/13/19 02:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Blue Sea for me.


2017 Grand Design Imagine 2650RK
2012 F-150 XLT Ecoboost ("EcoBeast") supercab
Just DW & me......

fitznj

nj

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Posted: 03/13/19 02:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've used the Hella Keyed switch

(Hella)

on about 5 or 6 vehicles including boat/classic car/RV. Never had a
problem. I like the removable key as it makes for a great anti-theft
device and make it easy to disconnect the electrics when working on
the electrical system.

You can wire in a 10A fues across the terminals if your vehicle needs
a constant source of power to keep the clock/radio presets.


Gerry

RoyB

King George, VA

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Posted: 03/13/19 06:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I like using the BLUE SEA switches as they are sealed which prevents arcing and also do the make before break contact action. They also use the same size ring terminals as all of my battery connections allowing me to use same size heavy duty cabling I want to use...

I can also get the BLUE SEA switches through AMAZON...

Roy Ken
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Naio

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Posted: 03/13/19 06:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you, everyone! I am persuaded that I should go with the in the cab version. Although it does sound like a pain to install.

Mex, did you intend to recommend that specific switch, or were you just giving it as an example? The Amazon reviewers don't seem to be very impressed with its build quality. Of course it is hard to know whether people know what they're talking about, on Amazon :-).

Have you used this particular switch?

Anybody else have when they recommend specifically?


3/4 timing in a DIY van conversion. Backroads, mountains, boondocking, sometimes big cities for a change of pace.


BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 03/13/19 07:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Beware of disconnect switch amp ratings! 12v is not the same as 24v rating.

I am with DrewE. Alternative is to maintain the engine battery from the house battery, but ISTR yours are 24v so another way is to use a small charger on the engine batt if you have shore power or solar "maintainer" if you have any sunshine there.

If you do have a way to use 12v from the house (tap in to one of two 12s in series?) or a DC-DC converter, then you can use a trickle start type to maintain engine from house.

I have two ways--on solar to house 12v, I have an adapter that goes from the 12v socket in the TV panel (house) to the dash cig lighter socket (engine). OR, I just use a 12v maintainer charger to the engine batt when on shore power.


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Bobbo

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Posted: 03/13/19 07:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When I owned a motorhome, I installed a Trik-L-Start that would allow a one way charge from my house batteries to my chassis batteries when the house battery charge was above the chassis battery charge. Then I installed a PD4655V converter/charger so I could keep the house battery charging full time. That kept the chassis battery charged full time too.

* This post was edited 03/14/19 08:24am by Bobbo *


Bobbo, Linda and the furry kid (45 pound rescue)
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB


MEXICOWANDERER

las peñas, michoacan, mexico

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Posted: 03/13/19 10:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It is designed to be nothing more than a design example. Sorry about that.

I used nothing but

COLE HERSEE

Brand switches. Made in USA. They will support a 700 amp intermittent load and a 200+ alternator charging load.

In an emergency serious users do not fiddle around wondering where OFF is. Multiple circuits on a fishing trawler. Someone twists every switch to the left. There's no braille and no guesswork.

I have gone through* an inventory of perhaps 70-100 of these switches. Their reliability is flawless even around the seashore.

Be certain to get the LONG THREADED NECK model. This allows for mounting in laminated, dual layers and carpeted.

I would pit a Cole Hersee lever on-off switch against the heaviest duty Blue Seas dial switch, any day of the week. the CH lever switch is some beast. The contacts are silver CLAD. And there is no way to escape the added expense.

* In house and over-the-counter sales.

jodeb720

Los Angeles

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Posted: 03/13/19 11:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

+3 Blue Sea - that's what I've had on two Trailers and would go with them again

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 03/14/19 12:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Naio,

I'd use a 200 amp rating on a solenoid. There are some that "latch", too.

My isolation switches are 1000 amp contacting.

I solved chassis battery charging with a Trik-L-Start.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

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