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Open Roads Forum  >  Tow Vehicles

 > Which vehicles could work for my RV?

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ppine

Northern Nevada

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Posted: 03/20/19 07:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You might want to own a slightly larger RV some time. I would buy a truck that is made for some towing. Stopping is no problem with good trailer brakes.

mkirsch

Rochester, NY

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Posted: 03/20/19 08:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Safe is one thing. You will be safe in any of those tow vehicles with that trailer behind, so long as you maintain both the vehicle and the trailer and ensure that you have good working brakes and tires all around, within reason.

Within reason, meaning you don't fill the trailer or SUV with rocks, or have three 300lb kids riding along.

Comfort is the other thing. Initially you will probably be able to convince yourself that it tows just fine, because you don't know any better, but somewhere down the road you MAY find yourself wanting for better performance, either in acceleration or handling. It is for this reason that you don't want to short-change yourself in the tow vehicle department up front.

Further complicating things is, everyone has a different idea of what "good" is. Some people are perfectly fine with taking a little longer to get from A to B. Others are foaming at the mouth if they can't do 85MPH in every situation.


Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

parker.rowe

Delaware

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Posted: 03/20/19 09:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jfkmk wrote:

I towed a 3500# (gross weight) with a 6 cyl. Envoy for years. Lock out 4th gear and it easily pulled that trailer all day long and averaged 12.5 mpg doing it.


Envoys/trailblazers where full frame with that same rear and transmission as a half ton GM.

And the Atlas inline 6 engine was no slouch.

Not a bad midsize suv to tow with.

Of course, they have made them for a while now.


2015 Starcraft TravelStar 239TBS 6500 GVWR
1996 GMC Suburban K1500 5.7 Vortec/4.56 Gears/PCM4Less Tune
1977 Kawasaki KZ1000


campigloo

Baton Rouge, La

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Posted: 03/20/19 04:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Another factor that makes towing ability using weights misleading is they are calculated with a load that has no wind resistance. It’s easier to pull a utility trailer with bags of sand on it than it is a tt with a front wall
I found a website years ago and don’t remember what is was but when I input size and body shape and a speed of 65mph it calculated that an additional 65 hp was required to maintain speed on a flat road with no head wind.
Also, avoid a vehicle with unibody construction.

bid_time

Michigan

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Posted: 03/20/19 05:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

campigloo wrote:

Another factor that makes towing ability using weights misleading is they are calculated with a load that has no wind resistance...
That's not true for any vehicle tested per the SAE J2807 standard, which most "tow" vehicles are.





campigloo

Baton Rouge, La

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Posted: 03/21/19 01:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bid_time wrote:

campigloo wrote:

Another factor that makes towing ability using weights misleading is they are calculated with a load that has no wind resistance...
That's not true for any vehicle tested per the SAE J2807 standard, which most "tow" vehicles are.


Yep, you’re right. Sometimes it just takes a while for it to sink in.

C Schomer

Pueblo West, Co.

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Posted: 03/22/19 07:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don’t forget to include the passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle in your towing weight. My first fifth wheel was 5000 pounds fully loaded and I pulled it with a dodge 360 gasser half ton. Power was a good match and it ran great but I sure wouldn’t want less brakes than that half ton had. Also new RV ers usually trade up to something bigger and heavier within a year or two. Just saying…

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