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Open Roads Forum  >  Beginning RVing

 > Gun or Tears -- HELP PLZ!!!

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saffikeagan

Montrose, CO

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Posted: 04/13/19 09:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm either going to take a gun to my TH or start crying in frustration.

Bought a TH in January. It sat until now. I'm trying to get it ready to go, and was going to driveway camp tonight.

Only the batteries were completely dead and had frozen over the winter. Took them to Wallyworld and had them tested and they tested fine (disaster averted, right?), so I charged them up and plugged them back in, plugged into shore power, turned on the propane, and was ready to chill for the night.

Only my CO detector wouldn't shut the F up. I immediately disconnected the batteries and took them to the charger, and disconnected shore to shut the bloody CO detector up. They both showed 65%. I plugged the TH back into shore to see what the CO detector did. It sat and flashed a green light. I thought it might be propane venting into the TH somehow, so I turned the propane off and bled the lines.

Then I went to reconnect the batteries and **** went wrong. I connected the negs and the first positive. Then I went to connect the parallel positive to the battery and sparks everywhere (yes, I know I did this wrong, don't be a dick and harp on that). So I immediately disconnected the negs, disconnected shore power, and connected the positive parallel. All good. Well, the positive terminal on the second battery was missing a chunk of the threads, but the bolt went on. I then tried to connect the first negative, and it kept sparking...small sparks, but sparking. I tried touching it on the frame to ground it, I made sure everything inside the TH was off, I let it sit for a while to calm down, and I Googled. Google said "no worries, it happens some times." So I went ahead and bolted that neg down. I then went to connect the parallel neg and it sparked like no one's business again and ate away part of the terminal connector metal again.

I've reverse order disconnected both batteries, and all is good for now, but I'm ready to put the whole thing up for sale as "new never used." Short of hauling it into the RV dealer and telling them to fix it, I don't know what to do. HELP!!!!!!! I've been trying to get answers/help from another forum for more than 24 hours, and the assistance provided has ranged from "go search the forum" (which I did) to "is the dog farting?" I get that I'm a total Noob, but I'm trying to learn without killing myself in the process.

* This post was edited 04/13/19 10:24pm by saffikeagan *

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 04/13/19 10:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You have Dual 12V batteries......connect ALL positive cables FIRST...then connect the negative to negative cables THEN Neg to ground cable

[image]


Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
On the Road Debt Free April '07
Off the road still Debt Free Jan. '14

jake2250

Sacramento

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Posted: 04/13/19 11:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well...... First off,, If you take it back to the dealer to fix it.Play dumb, don't say a word on what you did, just tell the it doesn't work and You have no idea what to do, please fix this!
When they ask you what happened, tell them you did exactly what the salesman showed you and it didn't work!
Sounds like you figured out your mistake, and its way to late,, But,, its under warranty, so let it be what it is!

HadEnough

Traveling. Always.

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Posted: 04/14/19 02:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Batteries release hydrogen when charging.

Hydrogen is detected by carbon monoxide detectors. That's the likely reason you had the false CO alarm.

maddog348

Bakersfield,CA

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Posted: 04/14/19 02:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have no answers but WELCOME to the forum. Stay calm. A new RV is a lot to learn.

Hang in there ~ One new thing atta time ~~ Good Luck





Ductape

On the Road

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Posted: 04/14/19 05:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jake2250 wrote:

Well...... First off,, If you take it back to the dealer to fix it.Play dumb, don't say a word on what you did, just tell the it doesn't work and You have no idea what to do, please fix this!
When they ask you what happened, tell them you did exactly what the salesman showed you and it didn't work!
Sounds like you figured out your mistake, and its way to late,, But,, its under warranty, so let it be what it is!


Nice. People rant about unethical practices by dealers and here's an advocate for dishonesty in claiming warranty coverage for what was clearly not a warranted defect.


49 States, 6 Provinces, 2 Territories...

Ralph Cramden

Not on this rag of a forum

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Posted: 04/14/19 05:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

.

* This post was edited 04/21/19 11:45am by Ralph Cramden *


Too many geezers, self appointed moderators, experts, and disappearing posts for me. Enjoy. How many times can the same thing be rehashed over and over?

naturist

Lynchburg, VA

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Joined: 04/24/2008

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Posted: 04/14/19 06:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear of your frustration but it does make for an entertaining adventure, which a decent sense of humor will have you telling on yourself one day after you get it all sorted out.

Although your batteries tested ok, lead acid batteries do not like being drained completely dead and they especially don’t like being frozen, so they are likely going to have a much shorter life than normal. Their newness saved you in the short run.

There is a small and inexpensive tool you will find very useful in the future for dealing with electrical issues. That is a volt-ohmmeter. All you really need is a cheap one in the $5-$10 range, although the more expensive $40-$50 ones are more capable. You can use it to test for all kinds of electrical problems ranging from which lead is positive and which negative to is there power here to whether the shore power is useable (voltage 110-130). In the sparking case, it could have helped show you you were connecting the right wires to the right terminals. You might seek out a teenage science nerd to show you how to use it.

Your new TH is a new adventure, and does come with guaranteed adventures in riding the learning curve. We’ve all been there.





wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Joined: 07/04/2006

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Posted: 04/14/19 06:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The CORRECT name for the Propane detector is "Explosive Gas Detector"

Propane. Methane. Butane. Hydrogen. Alcohol. Gasoline Any vapor that goes BOOM.

One word of warning.
Just read the story of a man who bumped a knob on his stove And when he figured it out he turned every knob. INCLUDING THE ONE THAT MAKES A SPARK.. Only damage was temp hearing loss and the hair on his arm.

Last summer... Same story.. Only it was the hair on his legs.
IF YOU or the detector SMELL explosive gas DO NOT TOUCH THAT KNOB.


Home is where I park it.
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


Terryallan

Foothills NC

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Posted: 04/14/19 07:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

saffikeagan wrote:

I'm either going to take a gun to my TH or start crying in frustration.

Bought a TH in January. It sat until now. I'm trying to get it ready to go, and was going to driveway camp tonight.

Only the batteries were completely dead and had frozen over the winter. Took them to Wallyworld and had them tested and they tested fine (disaster averted, right?), so I charged them up and plugged them back in, plugged into shore power, turned on the propane, and was ready to chill for the night.

Only my CO detector wouldn't shut the F up. I immediately disconnected the batteries and took them to the charger, and disconnected shore to shut the bloody CO detector up. They both showed 65%. I plugged the TH back into shore to see what the CO detector did. It sat and flashed a green light. I thought it might be propane venting into the TH somehow, so I turned the propane off and bled the lines.

Then I went to reconnect the batteries and **** went wrong. I connected the negs and the first positive. Then I went to connect the parallel positive to the battery and sparks everywhere (yes, I know I did this wrong, don't be a dick and harp on that). So I immediately disconnected the negs, disconnected shore power, and connected the positive parallel. All good. Well, the positive terminal on the second battery was missing a chunk of the threads, but the bolt went on. I then tried to connect the first negative, and it kept sparking...small sparks, but sparking. I tried touching it on the frame to ground it, I made sure everything inside the TH was off, I let it sit for a while to calm down, and I Googled. Google said "no worries, it happens some times." So I went ahead and bolted that neg down. I then went to connect the parallel neg and it sparked like no one's business again and ate away part of the terminal connector metal again.

I've reverse order disconnected both batteries, and all is good for now, but I'm ready to put the whole thing up for sale as "new never used." Short of hauling it into the RV dealer and telling them to fix it, I don't know what to do. HELP!!!!!!! I've been trying to get answers/help from another forum for more than 24 hours, and the assistance provided has ranged from "go search the forum" (which I did) to "is the dog farting?" I get that I'm a total Noob, but I'm trying to learn without killing myself in the process.


Something is always on in the RV. The radio, and propane sensor stay on, and will cause a spark when you hook up the battery. but shouldn't melt the post.

But as others have said. Stay calm, and get it looked at. You will be fine.

I do have a suggestion. Next winter. Remove the batteries. First take a picture of how they are connected. But remove them and store them inside to protect them.


Terry & Shay
Coachman Apex 288BH.
2013 F150 XLT Off Road
5.0, 3.73
Lazy Campers


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