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Open Roads Forum  >  Beginning RVing

 > Gun or Tears -- HELP PLZ!!!

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saffikeagan

Montrose, CO

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Posted: 04/14/19 09:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Follow up question: best place to buy new batteries? And, now that I get to be picky, any that I should look at buying vs avoiding?

bid_time

Michigan

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Posted: 04/14/19 09:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You need to disconnect those batteries any time you will not be using the TT for more then a few days. Parasitic draws will continue to discharge those batts when not in use. Repeatedly discharging the batts is not good for them and will cause you issues. Get a disconnect switch, install it and use it.





rexlion

Broken Arrow OK

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Posted: 04/14/19 02:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

12.1v is a half charge, battery is half discharged or, if it will not charge to higher voltage, it is shot.

There are only about 3 (iirc) big battery mfrs, and they put labels on for all sorts of retailers. But some retailers order different spec batteries. Heavier batts tend to have thicker plates, which is good. But in your situation, just buy whatever is cheap so you do not feel too bad when they need replacement too.


Mike G.
--for now, using a cargo trailer for camping--
To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven... (Ecclesiastes 3)
Yosemite Valley view from Taft Point


wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 04/14/19 04:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Best place to buy batteries.. If looking for BANG for yoru BUCK.> Sam's club if you have a membership.. If you dont' likely Wal-Mart

Best bang for hte buck battery GC-2 6 volts (you need two in series and you get basically a 12 volt 4D that way (Treat 'em as such) 220 amp hours give or take a bit. mine are 230.

What do I have.> DEKA G-20's.. a touch more expensive but DEKA is 100% USA made. they do not even import the lead (Refine it themselves they do).


Home is where I park it.
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


saffikeagan

Montrose, CO

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Posted: 04/14/19 06:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I can't find a DEKA G-20....is it this one? https://www.amazon.com/Deka-Power-Sports-ETX20L-Battery/dp/B0026H3CB4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=deka+battery&qid=1555287494&s=gateway&sr=8-3

JimK-NY

NY

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Posted: 04/15/19 08:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Considering your previous experience and what seems to be a shortage of mechanical ability, you might want to visit a RV dealer and have them install batteries they stock. As long as you get deep cycle batteries there is no advantage to going to 6v batteries.

philh

Belleville MI

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Posted: 04/15/19 09:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JimK-NY wrote:

Considering your previous experience and what seems to be a shortage of mechanical ability, you might want to visit a RV dealer and have them install batteries they stock. As long as you get deep cycle batteries there is no advantage to going to 6v batteries.

Increased capacity and greater discharge capabilities are 2 huge advantages.

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 04/15/19 02:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

saffikeagan wrote:

So, final verdict is to dump the batteries, get new ones, laugh, and move on. Okay. I think the money is, at this point, worth the headache of continuing to try and sort out these batteries (with one missing two sections of two terminals).

Thanks all!


No, the final verdict is slow down, figure out where you're at, sift through the BS and the good info and then move forward.
The way I read your posts is like you gotta leave x country tomorrow morning and can't stop or ever come back, lol.
First, are you aware your camper has a battery charger in it? Plug the camper in, batteries charge or stay charged. There's about a .01% chance I'm wrong about this, and I'm sure some rvnet expert will tell me it is physically possible to buy a camper without a battery charger, but please dont. Campers have battery chargers.

Second, did you really arc off half the battery posts or is that an exaggeration? It does not seem like there would be that big of a DC current draw when hooking your batteries back up. If it really did weld/melt stuff, was the fridge/heater fan, bunch of DC stuff "on" when you hooked them up? It shouldn't spark like that, even hooking up positive last.
3rd, how do you know you need new batteries? Have you tried to fully charge them? (Remember 2 days ago, they were froze solid like bricks....but they weren't apparently)
Do they hold a charge? They should be sitting at 12.5-12.6 volts a few days after charging, with NO draw on them.

This is not a big deal. Worst case you killed a couple batteries by leaving them set out for a couple months in the winter, not being charged.
Brand/type? Go buy some batteries (if you need them), deep cycle, any flavor and go camping for a few years and then figure out if you want to become master camper electrician battery goooroo.


03 Arctic Fox 860
07 Dodge 2500 deezul
"Obviously I don't want to overload my truck and be unsafe, but the reality is the truck is way more capable than the 10K GVWR they put on the sticker.
KJ"

jake2250

Sacramento

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Posted: 04/15/19 03:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ductape wrote:

jake2250 wrote:

Well...... First off,, If you take it back to the dealer to fix it.Play dumb, don't say a word on what you did, just tell the it doesn't work and You have no idea what to do, please fix this!
When they ask you what happened, tell them you did exactly what the salesman showed you and it didn't work!
Sounds like you figured out your mistake, and its way to late,, But,, its under warranty, so let it be what it is!


Nice. People rant about unethical practices by dealers and here's an advocate for dishonesty in claiming warranty coverage for what was clearly not a warranted defect.


How is going right back to the dealer and NOT ranting on about what you think you did wrong unethical? Or Dishonest?
Have the DEALER show You how to hook it up! And if it sparks and carries on then thats on them,Not on You!

How receptive do you think the shop is gonna be to you getting all freaked out that they screwed your trailer up?
All your doing is asking for clarity on how they hooked it up!
Let them determine if it was hooked up wrong and see what they will do for you!
Best thing to happen is that they realize your a new trailer owner and EDUCATE YOU on how to do it properly and maybe cut you a break on new or newer batteries!
Or not, your left to figure it out on your own!
But before you make that mistake again, Wear eye and hand protection! I have seen the aftermath of a battery explosion!
Last tip; Never disconnect or connect batteries with the trailer shore power plugged in.
Plugging in shore power will power the on board 12 battery charger and who knows what type amperage you will get!
Un plug shore-disconnect batteries do not plug shore in again until you have batteries hook up properly-then plug in shore power.
Your complete electrical system is designed to work with a 12 v battery inplace!
If no batteries and you plug in the shore power, your 12 Positive for the batteries will be HOT!
This was most likely the cause of the sparking when hooking the batteries up both times!
The CO/propane detector is another issue, next time it goes off and won't shut up, VENTILATE the trailer immediately! open it up! Its a TH correct? Open windows and the rear TH door and see if it goes off.
If not I would assume a Propane leak some where and take it back to the dealer to investigate!

* This post was edited 04/15/19 04:24pm by jake2250 *

TRM1

Temecula, CA

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Posted: 04/17/19 08:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

saffikeagan wrote:

So, final verdict is to dump the batteries, get new ones, laugh, and move on. Okay. I think the money is, at this point, worth the headache of continuing to try and sort out these batteries (with one missing two sections of two terminals).

Thanks all!


No, the final verdict is slow down, figure out where you're at, sift through the BS and the good info and then move forward.
The way I read your posts is like you gotta leave x country tomorrow morning and can't stop or ever come back, lol.
First, are you aware your camper has a battery charger in it? Plug the camper in, batteries charge or stay charged. There's about a .01% chance I'm wrong about this, and I'm sure some rvnet expert will tell me it is physically possible to buy a camper without a battery charger, but please dont. Campers have battery chargers.

Second, did you really arc off half the battery posts or is that an exaggeration? It does not seem like there would be that big of a DC current draw when hooking your batteries back up. If it really did weld/melt stuff, was the fridge/heater fan, bunch of DC stuff "on" when you hooked them up? It shouldn't spark like that, even hooking up positive last.
3rd, how do you know you need new batteries? Have you tried to fully charge them? (Remember 2 days ago, they were froze solid like bricks....but they weren't apparently)
Do they hold a charge? They should be sitting at 12.5-12.6 volts a few days after charging, with NO draw on them.

This is not a big deal. Worst case you killed a couple batteries by leaving them set out for a couple months in the winter, not being charged.
Brand/type? Go buy some batteries (if you need them), deep cycle, any flavor and go camping for a few years and then figure out if you want to become master camper electrician battery goooroo.


Best advice in this thread. I'll go one further and say the batteries won't even need replacing.

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