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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > Suggestions for RV panel install, long run

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rhagfo

Portland, OR

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Posted: 04/19/19 09:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

azrving wrote:

If you don't need a permit wire as you like. If you are supposed to get a permit wire it as required in case you get popped. At least that's how I cheat. I cheat but I don't leave myself open to double the cost. Risk reward I suppose


Very Bad advice, save a couple $$ burn something down! Two things I don't cheat on Electric and Gas, all done to code!

pianotuna wrote:

#4 copper wire in conduit. Use four wires.


Very Good advice!

To the OP, you state you are coming directly off the power pole, is this before or after the meter??

If before the meter you will also require a meter base (This would also be best as you would get a separate bill).

If post meter, and you are truly hooking up to her 200 amp panel, you should be sure that she can share that much amperage, and how are you planning to share the bill?


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enblethen

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Posted: 04/19/19 09:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Running four wires would set you up for a 120/240 setup for a 50 amp rig. The ground wire can be reduced in size. It does not have to be #4, #10 is sufficient for a 50 amp breaker.


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bartlettj

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Posted: 04/20/19 03:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I recently upgraded the service to my garage. For the price of 100 feet of #6 copper you can run 400 feet of 2-2-2-2 MHF aluminum direct bury and make it a 90A service if you want to. Aluminum is a far better choice for subpanel wiring as long as you follow best practices on anti-ox and lug torque.

Stoic_J

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Posted: 04/20/19 07:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rhagfo wrote:

To the OP, you state you are coming directly off the power pole, is this before or after the meter??

If post meter, and you are truly hooking up to her 200 amp panel, you should be sure that she can share that much amperage, and how are you planning to share the bill?
I will be after the meter. Putting in a submeter (not the power company's), but have not decided on a model yet. I'll post the final set-up when it's all done. I'd love to go 100 amps, but they use a lot of power at times. We can do 30 all the time, but to go above that we might have to switch on a generator now and then.

Stoic_J

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Posted: 06/01/19 02:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Okay, so I've run 4 copper wires underground in conduit, about 240'. 3 x 4#, and 1 x 10# green.

What type of panel would you install? I would like two 30-amp RV plugs. And I will need some kind of meter.

Here's the panel below the meter.
https://pix.sfly.com/wdzjxT

There's also a 125-amp 4-space breaker panel right behind it on the same pole. That panel services the well house, which has a well pump and a light/20-amp GFCI. I could upgrade that panel, just need to tie the well pump and GFCI into it.

* This post was edited 06/01/19 02:50pm by Stoic_J *

Stoic_J

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Posted: 06/11/19 08:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Below the main meter there is a fused disconnect. Two hots going through cartridge fuses, and one neutral going through just lugs, before going down and out to the main house.

https://pix.sfly.com/iUwJtx

A bare copper wire goes from the neutral plate (?), out the box, and then splits at a connector, with one line going down the utility pole to the ground (terminating on a grounding rod) and the other line going up the pole to this:

https://pix.sfly.com/iEHgM6

I am going to have the neutral and hots connected to NEW mechanical lugs, then out a hole drilled into the bottom of the disconnect box. They go about 230' to this meter socket:

https://pix.sfly.com/1yggwJ

From the meter socket they go a couple of feet to this panel:

https://pix.sfly.com/XY12Af

So, what would you do with the green wire that is at the disconnect, and why? Right now it goes through the ground bar in the socket and into the RV panel, but is not connected in that panel.

myredracer

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Posted: 06/11/19 10:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The photos are a bit on the small side to see exactly what's going on. A wiring diagram would also help. This is kinda what I'm thinking:

In the main fused disconnect, there are smaller wires running off the load side of the lugs. Not legal and not sure what they're for. If the main switch feeds two loads, there should be some kind of panel after it with a breaker for each downstream load. What size are the main fuses and what are the wire sizes connected to the load side lugs?

It looks like there is a reduced neutral in the main disconnect switch. This works and is permitted in houses where there is generally a somewhat balanced total load and the neutral sees less current than the hot wires. Not sure if that affects anything or if you need to try and better balance loads, but just putting it out there anyway.

Main service grounding should happen only in the main disconnect with ground rods (or code alternative). There would normally only be one size (not sure what the code size would be) main ground wire but sometimes there can be a small gauge ground wire for the telephone or CATV service. In the remote RV panel, grounding should definitely happen there if there is no ground wire in the overhead run back to the main disconnect. The neutral and ground should NOT be interconnected in the RV panel, but the enclosure must be grounded and connected to the ground bus inside the enclosure and to the ground connections on the receptacles. There should be a ground bus somewhere inside the RV panel. I *think* the NEC now allows grounding at remote RV panels/pedestals but does not require it - if there is a ground all the way back to the main service.

The meter base looks correctly wired as long as the neutral is isolated from the ground connection there. The ground bus needs to be connected to the enclosure which it looks like it is.

The RV panel is just like any "ordinary" house panel except that it has receptacles in it. There needs to one or more ground rods as per code which also depends on soil conditions.

The work looks great. Just add a faucet and sewer connection and you've got your own personal one-site RV park... [emoticon]

* This post was edited 06/11/19 10:16am by myredracer *


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myredracer

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Posted: 06/11/19 10:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dup

Stoic_J

Houston TX

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Posted: 06/11/19 10:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The smaller wires look like #8 or #6, and go a couple of feet to a small breakered panel that feeds a well pump.

WIRE SIZE: I don't know the sizes of the bigger wires. My thought was to use double mechanical lugs, one side for the bigger wire, the other side for the RV wire and the well pump wire. COULD have combined the well pump and RV into one larger panel, but..... this seemed better.

FUSE SIZE: Don't know the fuse sizes, can't read the labels without pulling them. A good bit thicker than the 100-amps I saw at the hardware store.

#10 GREEN WIRE: There is a #10 green in the conduit from the main disconnect to the RV panel, not sure what if anything to do with it.

I have an 8' ground rod hammered in close to the RV panel, and the clamps for it. Actually, I bought a 2nd rod, in case it made sense to pound that in a few feet away.

There is a ground bus in the RV panel, behind the receptacles. The #10 green wire is rolled up in there.

Meter base neutral and ground are not isolated.

Where would the #10 green go in the disconnect? Then it just goes in and out of the meter base, into the RV panel, and secured to the ground bus.
Or is it okay to not use the #10 green, and ground using bare copper to 2 ground rods?

* This post was last edited 06/11/19 04:38pm by Stoic_J *   View edit history

allen8106

Burrton. KS

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Posted: 06/12/19 11:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You need to be less than 3% voltage drop. For your distance you need either #1 copper or 2/0 Aluminum to stay under 3% voltage drop.

That's based of 240', 120 volts, 50 amps, single phase, single conductor per leg.


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