RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: Turbo leak

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  All

 > Turbo leak

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 7  
Prev  |  Next
Sponsored By:
mike brez

Unknown

Senior Member

Joined: 09/27/2002

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 04/29/19 01:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks to everyone who posted. Made it home without a issue. Climbed a couple of hills in PA. a little slow but no problem. Now to work on repairing. Let the soaking begin.


1998 36 foot Country Coach Magna #5499 Single slide
Gillig chassis with a series 40
02 Ford F250 7.3 with a few mods
2015 Wrangler JKU

mike brez

Unknown

Senior Member

Joined: 09/27/2002

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 04/29/19 01:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SidecarFlip wrote:

Best penetrating oil I've ever found (and cheapest too) is a mixture of acetone and Dexron / Mercon ATF. Mix 1/3 ATF with 2/3 rds Acetone and put in a sprttzer bottle. Eats rust and loosens stuck bolts. I keep a spritz bottle handy all the time.

Unless yo are crack home wrench, I'd take it to a shop to have it done. The turbo / manifold assembly has to come off, new gasket put on and everything buttoned up again, not for the home shop really unless you have the tools and a means to remove the parts safely.

You ca run it that way, no issue but like was stated above, soak the studs and nuts down (all of them, nit just that one more tan once before you get home. That will allow the removal without snapping a stud off which is a royal PITA and time consuming to extract. Most times they break off flush and have to be drilled out with a die reclaim bit... (solid tungsten carbide). Don't think you have one of those. Soaking them with penetrating oil will facilitate removal and save you a bundle in the end.



I will be fixing it myself. I have a decent assortment of tools but you are correct I don't have a die reclaim bit...(solid tungsten carbide)

Chum lee

Albuquerque, NM

Senior Member

Joined: 08/03/2015

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 04/29/19 01:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not a "must do", but just a suggestion. At the age of your engine, IME, it would be a good idea to replace the exhaust manifold/turbo studs, nuts, and gasket with factory OEM replacements, if possible/available. It looks from your photo that you have good access to the turbo.

Having a turbo exhaust leak puts additional stress on the remaining studs, as well as additional heat to the stud with the missing nut. You should be up and running in no time.

Chum lee

SidecarFlip

SE Michigan

Senior Member

Joined: 10/09/2016

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 04/29/19 05:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mike brez wrote:

SidecarFlip wrote:

Best penetrating oil I've ever found (and cheapest too) is a mixture of acetone and Dexron / Mercon ATF. Mix 1/3 ATF with 2/3 rds Acetone and put in a sprttzer bottle. Eats rust and loosens stuck bolts. I keep a spritz bottle handy all the time.

Unless yo are crack home wrench, I'd take it to a shop to have it done. The turbo / manifold assembly has to come off, new gasket put on and everything buttoned up again, not for the home shop really unless you have the tools and a means to remove the parts safely.

You ca run it that way, no issue but like was stated above, soak the studs and nuts down (all of them, nit just that one more tan once before you get home. That will allow the removal without snapping a stud off which is a royal PITA and time consuming to extract. Most times they break off flush and have to be drilled out with a die reclaim bit... (solid tungsten carbide). Don't think you have one of those. Soaking them with penetrating oil will facilitate removal and save you a bundle in the end.



I will be fixing it myself. I have a decent assortment of tools but you are correct I don't have a die reclaim bit...(solid tungsten carbide)


Even with lots of penetrating oil and time to soak in, chances are you will break a stud or two and like I said, they tend to break off flush so the only avenue is drill it out but normal HSS drills won't do the job because the studs are heat treated many times over so you'll need to get a die reclaim (solid tungsten carbide drill) and drill and then pick out the remainder of the stud with a carbide pick. You can buy single reclaim drills in the diameter you require from MNSC online. They aren't cheap, around 30 bucks for a single drill but they will drill anything including glass if you want to. I have a set of them and use them once in a while to drill out broken taps in work I don't want to scrap.

Don't use any oil when drilling, just water as a lubricant and use it to flush away the drillings. Take your time and keep the drill straight. Hurrying up will break the bit.

Hopefully you don't snap any studs but usually they do snap on an engine that has went through many heat and cool cycles.

I know CAT (if you have a CAT engine, makes a drill jig to align the drill with the stud and if it is a CAT you should be able to borrow the jig from any engine shop that does CAT work. If it's some other make, I'm not sure about the jig, Only familiar with the CAT one.

Hope that helps.


2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

PCarnathan

Menifee, CA

Senior Member

Joined: 04/20/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 04/29/19 05:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I admire your willingness to attempt the repair on your own. Please keep us updated!

Pat in Menifee, CA


2009 Mandalay 43A
2009 Honda CR-V Toad
2011 Toyota Tacoma
2013 Honda Goldwing
2003 Honda TRX400ex (2)
2005 Honda Aquatrax F12-X (2)
2016 Yamaha YXZ1000R


Gjac

Milford, CT

Senior Member

Joined: 08/16/2006

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 04/30/19 10:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Mike, I have several "3 legged dogs" for different size drill bits which will keep the drill bit straight if you break off a stud that you can borrow. I have used Kroil oil and gas mixed with transmission fluid in the past with some success. I have better luck using a breaker bar and a 6 point socket that I would tap on with a hammer while applying torque to the breaker bar after soaking the area.

mike brez

Unknown

Senior Member

Joined: 09/27/2002

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 04/30/19 11:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks Gary I soaked with PB blaster a couple times yesterday. This morning a made a mixture of the acetone and atf and soaked them a couple times today so far. When I installed the headers on my old 94 PaceArrow I was able to get every nut or stud out without a single one snapping.
I got everything loosened up around the turbo but one 2.5 inch constant tension clamp broke. I have the clamp that holds the pac brake to the turbo loose but can't get that apart yet. I believe it's called a V clamp. Gonna give it a couple taps next time out when I soak the turbo flange nuts again.
If one of the bottom studs break I don't believe there is enough room to drill out.

mike brez

Unknown

Senior Member

Joined: 09/27/2002

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 05/01/19 07:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I removed the top nut yesterday without issue. The bottom two are going to be a different story.
I have everything else besides those tow nuts freed up and should be able to slide turbo out enough past studs to replace gasket.
I have found the gasket on line and the clamp I broke but waiting until everything is apart in case I need something else. Soaked the bottom two studs and nuts this morning will do it a few more times throughout the day.
Someone mentchioned about having the correct tools. The last pic shows everything used so far.

[image]

[image]

[image]

[image]

* This post was last edited 05/01/19 11:57am by mike brez *   View edit history

mike brez

Unknown

Senior Member

Joined: 09/27/2002

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 05/01/19 06:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok all nuts off the studs without any snapping off. Only said a few bad words.
Had to remove more plumbing than I originally thought.
The third pic shows oil line going into the turbo and their is one just like it on the bottom of turbo that is impossible to get to. Will have to try and take it out of the side of the engine block shown in last pic. Looks like it may have leaked a little but all of engine looks dry. Pretty good for 21 years old I guess.


[image]

[image]

[image]

[image]

SidecarFlip

SE Michigan

Senior Member

Joined: 10/09/2016

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 05/01/19 07:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Oh hell it is a DDEC engine. I didn't know. The lower line is the turbo oil drain. It's o ringed into the block. If I were you at 21 years old, I'd replace all the ATA hoses on the pressure side of the turbo. They are pretty cheap and at 21 years old are on borrowed time. You pop one of those, she will really smoke.

Least it's a pre EGR motor. DDEC engines with EGR are prone to carboning up
in the intake tract.

Most people on here would never attempt what you are doing, they's scratch their butts and take it to a diesel repair shop and pay 100 bucks an hour for the repair. I'm like you, I prefer doing it myself and I'm cheap.

I thought you had a kitty cat....lol

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 7  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  All

 > Turbo leak
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.