RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Moving up to a Ram 2500.. but have some weight questions..

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Beginning RVing

Open Roads Forum  >  Beginning RVing

 > Moving up to a Ram 2500.. but have some weight questions..

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next
Sponsored By:
rhagfo

Portland, OR

Senior Member

Joined: 07/06/2012

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 05/03/19 05:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

audiodane wrote:

solid advice, 2012Coleman. Thank you. We did the CAT scale thing with our 2014 Expedition EL and towed a few times (TT's) ... looking for a little more margin but a 3500 just seems unnecessarily large. I think a <12k gross FW gives us plenty of options..

Not absolutely opposed to a 3500, but also don't think it's a must in this (<12k gross) ballpark based on what I'm learning.. Definitely going CTD engine though, whichever way we go. [emoticon] Lots of good 10k and 11k gross options out there..

cheers,
..dane


No not a Must, but why not buy once and be covered for the next trailer. There are a lot of variables in towing a 5er as far as weights go. Family of five, you only covered the current weights of the family members. Three of them with grow.
STUFF, every bottle of water, paper plate plastic fork adds to the weight on both the TV and 5er, If you get a 3500 SRW you gain 2,300# (mentioned before) in GVWR, and almost will go to payload.

I have a 2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW, yellow tag pay load 5,411# GVWR 14,000# 14,000 - 5,411 = 8,589? well after our hitch, and in bed tool box, me DW and 30# and stuff, we scaled with full tanks (fuel & DEF) 9,950# leaving us with 4,050# of payload. If you are calculating too close you will be surprised.


Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"


Lantley

Ellicott City, Maryland

Senior Member

Joined: 08/23/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 05/03/19 06:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We can talk axle rating vs. GVW vs. taxation ratings. vs.class ratings and still not reach a conclusion.
However at the end of the day the 1 ton and 3/4 ton SRW are just about the same price.
If shopping for a new truck to tow a fiver why not get the one with the most capacity, towing options, stiffer suspension, higher ratings?
Be it real or imagined the 1 ton provides more margin for the same cost.
Why buy marginally capable vs. fully capable....when they are both the same price?
People buy the wrong truck because they mistakenly believe the more capable truck cost more, the truth is the difference in price difference is negligible


2019 Duramax w/hips,2012 Open Range,Titan Disc Brake
H-head TPMS,BD3,RV safepower,17" Blackstone
Ox Bedsaver,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps
BakFlip,RVLock,5500 Onan LP,Prog.50A surge,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan,Sailun S637
Correct Trax,Splendide


MFL

Midwest

Senior Member

Joined: 11/28/2012

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 05/04/19 05:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What the difference is when comparing 3/4-1T SRW, is about 1,500 lbs of GVWR 10K, to about 11.5K. Yes, class 2 to class 3. If you are shopping, unless you find a GREAT DEAL on the class 2, you may as well get the class 3. The 3/4 can be used to do the same job, for a cost, and many upgrade their 3/4, since they already own it.

IMO, if a late model 250/2500 won't work, then best to move right to the 1 ton DRW, if trading up.

Jerry





Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 05/06/2013

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 05/04/19 10:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

audiodane wrote:

but a 3500 just seems unnecessarily large. I think a <12k gross FW gives us plenty of options..

Not absolutely opposed to a 3500, but also don't think it's a must in this (<12k gross) ballpark based on what I'm learning.. Definitely going CTD engine though, whichever way we go. [emoticon] Lots of good 10k and 11k gross options out there..

cheers,
..dane


A couple more things. With the 3500s being essentially the same, apples to apples they are also the same size physically. So no size penalty with a 3500 and the 3500 does have more Rated capacity and a greater spring rate in the rear. They'll take more weight before you need airbags etc. Another advantage of 3500s is they don't have a TPMS and the silly high pressure requirement for the tires that is difficult to adjust or defeat if you want to run the proper lower tire pressures when driving empty. Without getting the tire pressure idiot light.
Personally I will home in on a 3500 for a replacement but only because of the differnet rear suspension, coils don't work well for a big truck camper AND the tpms thing.
That said, they all, 2500 and 3500, have rear axles that are actually good for 10klbs and tires and springs are the limiting factor.
The other factor is availability on the used market, which appears to be your market by previous posts. There are FAR more 2500s on the market than 3500 srw.
Being set on a Ram, you lose the ability to opt for the Aisin trans and HO engine. But the 68re is a good trans if a bit clunky but can be tuned, as can the engine it you're after a bit more power.
Again some conjecture, but not the availability part.


03 Arctic Fox 860
07 Dodge 2500 deezul
"Obviously I don't want to overload my truck and be unsafe, but the reality is the truck is way more capable than the 10K GVWR they put on the sticker.
KJ"

rvshrinker

Beautiful Pacific Northwest

Senior Member

Joined: 07/30/2014

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 05/05/19 09:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rhagfo wrote:

Second Chance wrote:

Use 23% of a fifth wheel's GVWR to estimate loaded pin weight. If you have a family and are planning on a fifth wheel and carrying everyone in a crew cab, forget any 3/4-ton truck and go straight for a 1-ton SRW minimum. There are lots of folks out there who are members of the "Two-Timers' Club" - those who didn't buy enough truck the first time around and had to eat the depreciation and upgrade.

Rob


X2 to this!

Sure the HD 2500 will pull the 5er, and likely be under rear axle rating. The thing is you are adding the front and rear axle ratings, with a 5er you typically only add a few pounds to the front axle, what you look at is the rear axle rating.
In addition you are making some pretty tight numbers to get a 2500 to work for you.

You describe the difference in Payload between 2500 and 3500 SRW as " The 3500 SRW increases payload but not much more." Well GVWR difference is 2,300# and you will gain most of that in Payload. I would consider that a lot more.

You have a family of five, at least three of those members will gain weight over the next several years, have you accounted for that?

Unless you buy a 2019 Ram 2500, you only have get a 3.42 differential, with a 3500 SRW you can get a 3.42, or 3.73. I think 4.10 is DRW only before 2019.

Then if you chose to get a larger 5er!

I am not a Weight Cop, I towed a 12,500# 5er with a 2001 Ram 2500, by axle rating did fine. What ate at me was I was 1,700# over the trucks GVWR. If not at fault, a hungry lawyer might drag me into civil court for being at least a percentage at fault for being over weight.

Now days I have 1,300# of spare payload!!!

Exactly, which is why I went with a 3500 RAM and no regrets. i wanted all the towing goodies and all the extra payload “just in case.” What if I want to switch to a truck camper in a few years? Or a bigger trailer? Going to a 3500 doesn’t cost that much more; the ride is just fine to me. I get the air level suspension, engine brake, tow/haul mode, tow mirrors, integrated trailer brake, etc. Worth it.

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 05/06/2013

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 05/05/19 10:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"What if I switch to a truck camper..." is probably the one totally objuectove reason to get a 3500 if talking Ram. Not with the other 2 brands since they're all leaf spring trucks.

Otherwise, you're still buying basically the same truck. And with a 1 ton you have about 1/10th the selection to choose from.
Fwiw rvshrinker you don't have to get a 1 ton to get all the stuff you mentioned.

rvshrinker

Beautiful Pacific Northwest

Senior Member

Joined: 07/30/2014

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 05/05/19 11:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

right but once you compare apples to apples there is a very small price differential going from 2500 to 3500 RAM.

audiodane

alabama

New Member

Joined: 10/20/2018

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 05/06/19 02:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

2012Coleman wrote:

Make sure you come back and tell us about the decision.

I think your right though at less than 12 k your good with the 2500 but it’s nice to have the extra and not have to worry for the next camper


Thanks, I will! I re-ran a TON of numbers last night using more specific vehicle choices and a 12K GVWR fifth wheel. Number are good across the board (2014 through 2019) on axle ratings for both 4x2 and 4x4, of course payloads are off on 2500 but all in-spec on 3500's. A full 25% kingpin of 12K GVWR is just a couple hundred pounds over axle ratings of a 2500, but not 3500. But 20% is good across the board.

Lantley wrote:


If shopping for a new truck to tow a fiver why not get the one with the most capacity, towing options, stiffer suspension, higher ratings?
Be it real or imagined the 1 ton provides more margin for the same cost.
Why buy marginally capable vs. fully capable....when they are both the same price?
People buy the wrong truck because they mistakenly believe the more capable truck cost more, the truth is the difference in price difference is negligible


This is good wisdom, @Lantley, thanks. It does seem like they are largely the same truck, with the diff possibly in tires+suspension alone, is that right? Maybe some other nuances that largely don't matter..

I keep reading how much more comfortable the coil springs are in the 2500 though, as compared to the 3500. This will be a daily driver for someone (DW or myself).

MFL wrote:

What the difference is when comparing 3/4-1T SRW, is about 1,500 lbs of GVWR 10K, to about 11.5K. Yes, class 2 to class 3. If you are shopping, unless you find a GREAT DEAL on the class 2, you may as well get the class 3. The 3/4 can be used to do the same job, for a cost, and many upgrade their 3/4, since they already own it.


Thanks @MFL for reminding me... I've read a few things online about CDL and other requirements if going class-3, depending on certain states, which gives me pause. We live in the southeast but do plan on eventually doing a lower-CONUS tour eventually, maybe summer 2020-2021?

I don't think I'm ruling out a 3500 at this point, aside from feeling it might be less smooth as a daily driver. But I'm also not ruling out a 2500 of which there are a TON more available for purchase.

rvshrinker wrote:

right but once you compare apples to apples there is a very small price differential going from 2500 to 3500 RAM.


Yeah, that's what I'm seeing, @rvshrinker. I think at the end of the day both are going to be on my list, and pray the Lord will open and close the doors along our journey. There are a lot more 2500's available, and *slightly* lower cost, than equiv. year 3500's.

I think I need to spend some time understanding what the potential DOWNFALL's there are to a 3500 to help me decide.

cheers,
..dane


2018 Ram 3500 CC SB 4x4 SRW

time2roll

Southern California

Senior Member

Joined: 03/21/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 05/06/19 03:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Second Chance wrote:

forget any 3/4-ton truck and go straight for a 1-ton SRW minimum.
+1 since payload is the primary focus to limit your towing.


2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 05/06/2013

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 05/06/19 10:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There's no downsides to a 1 ton save for availability on the used market.
You don't need a CDL, anywhere.
The rear suspension isn't harsh if you lower tire pressure when empty. Softer than a 2500 with 70-80 psi in back to keep the tpms light off.
And for crying out loud, this turned into every thread on here. Your upgrading to a trailer that can still be pulled by a stout 1/2 ton and getting talked into a 1 ton.

Sound like I'm talking out of both sides of my mouth? That's because I'd buy a 1 ton for my particular reasons, given the choice, but there's literally no difference in capability or drive ability between the 2 for the OP's purpose.

* This post was edited 05/07/19 09:25am by Grit dog *

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Beginning RVing

 > Moving up to a Ram 2500.. but have some weight questions..
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Beginning RVing


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS