RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Inverter and Auto Transfer Switch

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Inverter and Auto Transfer Switch

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Prev
Sponsored By:
wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

Senior Member

Joined: 07/04/2006

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 05/07/19 04:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I will make it as easy as possible

Instead of an "inverter" get an "Inverter/Charger" A suggestion is somethign like the Xantrex Freedom XC-2000 I will give you the counter on that specific in a bit.

It hooks up like this

Main panel--30 amp branch----Freedom XC---Sub panel--TV, MICROWAVE, GFCI or other outlets) Each circuit has itss own Sub Panel Breaker

Notes:
A Sub panel DOES NOT HAVE Neutral and Ground bonded (Neither should an RV's main that is done at the park end of thigns)

Second: On my Freedom XC I really DO NOT LIKE the way the 120 volt wires connect I broke some of the connectors and had to use "other means" to hook it up.
(Thankfully that's not a problem for me).

THe charger on the Freedom. Is programmable

Before that I had a Prosine 2.0 (Basically the same thing. wired the same way but I like the connections way way way better)


Home is where I park it.
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


time2roll

Southern California

Senior Member

Joined: 03/21/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 05/07/19 08:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Two branch circuits? Get two transfer switches.

Transfer switch has two input, one output.

Remove the branch circuit from the breaker and panel (H,N,G) and attach to the switch output. Attach new romex from breaker to input 1 and the inverter to input 2 of the switch. Repeat for second transfer switch and you are good to go.

Check that the fridge and converter are not part of these branch circuits. If they are you need to move the converter to another branch or add a breaker to have on a separate circuit. For the fridge you can set to propane only or move same as the converter.

I have mine set up like this and it has been flawless. And yes power goes through the breaker.

https://www.donrowe.com/KISAE-TS15A-Automatic-Transfer-Switch-p/ts15a.htm
20 amp also available.


2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up

theoldwizard1

SE MI

Senior Member

Joined: 09/07/2010

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 05/07/19 09:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

First, if you have not purchased an inverter, buy one with an automatic transfer switch built in. Without those other loads, you probably only about 1000W inverter so checkout a Samlex Inverter/Chrager/Transfer Switch

Second, you are correct about requiring a fuse/breaker AFTER the inverter ! THIS IS PROBABLY NOT CODE COMPLIANT, BUT THIS IS WHAT I WOULD DO.

Get a 240V fused A/C disconnect box. Run the hot from the shore power plug to one of the input of one of the fuses. Split the output of that fuse and run one of the wires to the hot inut of the inverter/charger/transfer box and the other to the non-inverter powered circuits in your RV. Run the hot output of the inverter to the other fuse input and then the output of that fuse to all circuits that the inverter is covering.

HERE IS THE TRICKY PART ! Do NOT connect the neutral leads from the inverter inside the box to the neutral bar ! The neutral from the inverter covered circuits should connect to the neutral of that circuit. The neutral from the shore power cord should only connect to the non-inverter covered circuit and to the inverter input.

ALL grounds can be bonded inside the box to the neutral. The first outlet on both circuits should be a GFCI.


THEORY OF OPERATION
When on shore power, all power passes through the first fuse before going to both the inverter and the non-inverter covered circuit. This would likely be a 30A fuse. The transfer switch passes current from its input to its output and then to the second fuse which would likely be a 15A fuse.
When NOT on shore power, everything on the non-inverter covered circuit is dead (including the battery charger). Everything on inverter covered circuit is powered through the second fuse. Bonding is done inside the inverter/charger/transfer switch.


WARNING ! Proceed at your own risk ! I doubt a licensed electrician would install this !!

* This post was edited 05/07/19 09:57pm by theoldwizard1 *

dmck413

Fluvanna Va

Full Member

Joined: 10/15/2009

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 05/08/19 06:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There should be a fuse on the output of the inverter.If this is rated for your wire size you are good. If not add an inline fuse.

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Prev

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Inverter and Auto Transfer Switch
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.