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theoldwizard1

SE MI

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Posted: 05/30/19 11:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This is a question mainly for people with a 10 or 12 gallon water heater who frequently use shore power electricity to heat their water.

Most 120V heat elements are about 1500W so they are well less than a 15A draw. Has anyone installed a 2000W element or even a 240V 5500W (2250W @ 120V) element ? Both would require a 30A or 50A shore power connection AND some upgrades to the wiring (at least 12 gauge wire) and breaker inside your RV.

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 05/30/19 11:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Atwood uses a 1400W element......use to use a 1500W but went to 1400W to lower the amp draw
Suburban uses a 1440W element

RV Water Heater electric elements are fed by a 15A CB
As you stated ....Wiring & CB changes would be necessary

So NO....
Doubt anyone has done that as it is not that much of an improvement (cost/benefit)

1400/1440W element have a recovery time of roughly 6.2 gal/hr (based on initial 70*F water temp) ---even shorter time for reheat cycle (from 100*/110*F water temp)
Want faster recovery time.turn electric & propane on at same time (16.2 gal/hr ---70*F water)

Want hot all the time.....leave electric ON


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time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 05/30/19 11:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK to run on propane at the same time for fastest recovery. (assuming you have propane)
Also there is an RV tankless W/H available for continuous hot water.
I have not replaced the element.


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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 05/30/19 12:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi,

I'd rather go down from the 1400 watt. Recovery time is, for me, a non issue. I've used the propane side twice since 2009. I have a ten gallon unit.

From ambient to first cycle takes about 90 minutes. If no water is drawn it appears to cycle every 4 hours and takes 15 minutes of "on" time.


Regards, Don
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Roger10378

Goodrich, MI.

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Posted: 05/30/19 01:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

To change to 240V would be a lot of work as most if not all RV electric panels do not have 240 available. You would have to change to a house panel and then upgrade the wire from the breaker to the water heater


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ktmrfs

Portland, Oregon

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Posted: 05/30/19 02:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

you could with some work, but if you need recovery, just turn on propane AND electric.


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wa8yxm

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Posted: 05/30/19 05:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I went the other way on my Six gallon tank.

I switched the 1500 watt 120 volt element for a 1500 watt 240 watt.
This gives me about 375 watts at 120 volt
YES it takes longer to heat the water

But my trips to the park pedestal when on a 30 amp site due to overload WAY WAY WAY Down.


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cpaulsen

Oregon

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Posted: 05/31/19 04:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On my 12 gallon water heater......I just use electric all the time......unless it has been off for some time then I use both propane and electric at the same time.


cpaulsen


DrewE

Vermont

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Posted: 06/04/19 11:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

theoldwizard1 wrote:


Most 120V heat elements are about 1500W so they are well less than a 15A draw. Has anyone installed a 2000W element or even a 240V 5500W (2250W @ 120V) element ? Both would require a 30A or 50A shore power connection AND some upgrades to the wiring (at least 12 gauge wire) and breaker inside your RV.


Note that a 5500W 240V element will not be 2250W if powered by 120V, but rather 1125W. Half the voltage means half the current, per Ohm's law, and thus a quarter of the power dissipation.





S Davis

Western WA

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Posted: 06/05/19 12:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can get up to a 3,000 watt 120 volt element.

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