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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Dometic refrigerator keeps tripping the thermal limit switch

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Flinx777

Murrieta

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Joined: 11/05/2010

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Posted: 06/04/19 10:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

garyemunson wrote:

Over the decades I've had to replace 2 cooling units. Both were in RVs I bought used so I suspect they were not operated correctly in the past. Since I've done them myself (pretty easy as they were older, smaller fridges), it was far cheaper than replacing the entire fridge. At this point, you should take stock of how you use your RV. If you always go to RV parks wth hookups (nothing wrong with that, lots of people prefer the comforts provided!) it's time to switch to a residential type fridge. Cheaper than repairing yours even if you do all the work yourself. If you boondock at all or go to state/national campgrounds without hookups, gas fridges are still king. Switching to a residential in those cases usually involves more batteries and an inverter upgrade so you end up spending the same or more. As said above, operating out of level can make fridges run hotter outside increasing the risk of springing a leak from the repeated flexing of the steel from the greater temperature swings. You don't have to be spot on level, what happens occurs on a "sliding scale", the more out of level, the hotter the coils run. Just do your best to get the coach not too far off level and you will be OK. I've seen the obsessed using a 3' level feverishly adding/subtracting blocks to get their rig perfect. Not necessary. Also, if you live in a humid climate, leaving the RV plugged in and the fridge on electric will keep the outside coils hot and lessen chance of them rusting out at one of their welds.

https://rvcoolingunit.com/Dometic-Cooling-Units-remanufactured-C4380.aspx?sid=298


I found my unit on their website:

https://rvcoolingunit.com/DM2652-Dometic-Cooling-Unit-606a-626a-P5536108.aspx

So you think this is easy enough to replace on my own? I just emailed them to ask for installation instructions.

Also, how does this system differ from the Dometic system?

* This post was edited 06/04/19 10:49am by Flinx777 *


2000 Ford 350 DRW 7.3L Turbo Diesel, 4 speed automatic, 4.10 rear end, limited-slip differential. Banks Power & Brakes, B&W Hitch
2007 Keystone Montana Mountaineer 34pht


wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 06/04/19 04:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Be glad you had the mod done... It saved your RV.

Another thing that can pop the thermal breaker/fuse is a clogged flu but I see that is not your issue. Sometimes birds nest atop it.. Kind of warm up there and a bit wind protected.. Or insects.

Glad you found your problem.. Sorry it's one you have to throw money at.


Home is where I park it.
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


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