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 > Feet on landing gear

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RobWNY

Jamestown, NY

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Posted: 06/07/19 07:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wrgrs50s wrote:

The slack in the extension part of the legs is what causes the movement. The foot size will only help the foot from sinking into the ground somewhat.
As stated before, the less the leg extends the less slack present, however there may be some risk in damage if they fell off the blocks due to wind storm or while hitching up.
I usually stack 2 pieces of 2 x 6 under each leg and use the X chocks and that helps somewhat with the rocking fore and aft.

Somehow I think that if a wind storm is strong enough to make your camper fall off of the blocks, that would be the least of your worries. Auntie M Auntie M!

laknox

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Posted: 06/07/19 09:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jkmrich wrote:

We have the rectangular feet on our landing gear. Does switching to the round 9” feet make a difference? (More stable)


Since I now have a 4-pt leveling system, I don't have need for my lego blocks for leveling, I'll put 5 under each front leg to shorten them up. I also put some blocks under the rear jacks because the stroke on them is so short that it doesn't take much unevenness for them to run out. I also have JT Strongarms from the factory. THOSE help tremendously!

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laknox

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Posted: 06/07/19 09:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't know about the rest of y'all, but I've been in a couple parks that have asphalt-paved sites, and they =require= boards under your jacks to keep them from sinking into the pavement.

Lyle

Durb

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Posted: 06/07/19 09:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jkmrich wrote:

Durb wrote:

I replaced my landing gear pads with ones that were larger and heavier duty, however still rectangular. They didn't add to the trailer's stability. What did help was putting the landing gear on 7 1/2" high blocks. These shortened the landing gear legs and took some shake out of the trailer.


Like wood blocks or some type of commercially made block? Thanks!


I used a 10 ft piece of pressure treated 2X6 for each side. I cut them into 11" lengths then nailed them together in a crosshatch pattern. That gave me a block 11" square and 7 1/2" high. I also screwed plastic strips on the tops to create a well for the landing gear so they won't slip off. The most important part, I screwed on plastic handles on the sides. Don't think I would want to own them without the handles.

If you want, PM me with an e-mail and I will forward a picture.

gdweb

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Posted: 06/07/19 11:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

if your looking for stability, Steadyfast system and x-chocks. stops a lot of the movement.

ReneeG

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Posted: 06/07/19 03:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We bought and installed the RV SnapPad and we wouldn't go back. Since adding these, we have not used the old 4x4 wooden blocks. These stay on and work well on any surface.


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ReneeG

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Posted: 06/07/19 03:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Durb wrote:

I replaced my landing gear pads with ones that were larger and heavier duty, however still rectangular. They didn't add to the trailer's stability. What did help was putting the landing gear on 7 1/2" high blocks. These shortened the landing gear legs and took some shake out of the trailer.


The least amount of extension on your landing gear, front or back (for back they are technically called stabilizers), the least amount of movement in your rig.

For our back stabilizers, we stack the snap blocks before bringing them down to provide a more stable feel inside.

packnrat

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Posted: 06/09/19 11:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

yes to adding a wood "block" under the landing legs.
the less they stick out of there housings the less wiggle. i built a set of them for my driveway. (slopped down) mostly to help level out the 5 er. one can walk under the pin without stooping. just use 2X8 inch hard wood, soak all in a water proofing and wood preservative. use only outdoor wood screws a good 4 inches long (use plenty of them). over build this as you would not want it to fail at anytime.
yes heavy, but very stable they are a good 18 inches sq foot print, and a good 16 inches tall. (width of the board,+ two layers top and two layers bottom,(screwed as layer going one way and second going 90% to the first layer) just for the higth. then cross braced inside the "box"). with one 3/8 screw/bolt sticking up to act as a notice of slippage (goes through a hole in the landing leg foot). one heavy winter, and working inside the coach, have not seen any signs of such. and just this alone had removed almost if not all wiggling.

i did not use any glue just 2 screws at every connection point.
if i wanted to take them with me would not be a issue. as i can easily lift them into the back of the truck, yes there is a large hand/carry grip on them.


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mtofell1

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Posted: 06/13/19 10:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The braces that provide some triangulation get by far the best reviews for reduced movement. Big blocks under the landing gear sounds like it helps a bit too. I've been pretty pleased with the $$/effort and results from a cheap bottle jack under the frame near the wheels on each side of the trailer. Basically, stop the suspension from being suspension. I think I got jacks at Harbor Freight for $15/each, they are super easy to transport and just take a couple minutes to install.

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