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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Electric Brake Issues - Weak Brakes

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tsherv

Wisconsin

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Posted: 06/11/19 05:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi,

I have a 2017 R-Pod 180. Recently I repacked my wheel bearings and inspected my brakes. I noticed that the 1 shoe on the drivers side was really worn. I decided to replace the whole break assembly and hub. Very easy replacement.

After I got everything back together, I adjusted my brakes on both sides. I adjusted them according to every youtube video I could watch. I can spin the wheel on both sides, but hear a slight drag of the brakes.

When I road tested it, I decided to set my brake controller (Prodigy IQ). I quickly realized that my brakes were not doing much of anything. I readjusted my brake controller. I ended up cranking it all the way up. As a result, I can feel the brakes working. If I'm coasting at 20 MPH and hold my manual override button on the controller, I can just about make the truck and trailer stop. I feel like they should be more powerful though. If I crank up my brake controller, shouldn't I be able to just about lock up my trailer tires?

We are leaving in 12 days for a 4,000 mile mountain vacation. I really need to get this figured out!

I've tried different combinations of brake adjustments and controller adjustments and seem to get the same results.

Any advice?

Lynnmor

Red Lion

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Posted: 06/11/19 05:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I don't know how many shoes you replaced, but new brakes take some time to burnish and work correctly.





John Wayne

Long Beach, Ca

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Posted: 06/11/19 05:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Are you sure you have good tight connections for the positive and Neg. wires.


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tsherv

Wisconsin

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Posted: 06/11/19 05:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I only put new shoes on one side. The other side had very little wear.

As far as the connections go: I use heat shrink "butt connectors". As far as I know I have a good connection?

I was told that when I installed the new brake assembly, that there isn't a positive and negative wire. The dealer told me that it doesn't matter which wire you connect. Just so both wires are hooked up. Does that make sense?

pitch

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Posted: 06/11/19 06:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tsherv wrote:



I was told that when I installed the new brake assembly, that there isn't a positive and negative wire. The dealer told me that it doesn't matter which wire you connect. Just so both wires are hooked up. Does that make sense?



This is correct. I agree with the above poster that they need to be burnished.

Roger10378

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Posted: 06/11/19 06:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Are the on the correct sides?


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tsherv

Wisconsin

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Posted: 06/11/19 06:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think I'm on to something: I tested the voltage of the blue wire coming from my brake controller while pushing the manual override. It measured 12 volts (which it should). When I tested the brake pin of the 7 pin connector, it only registered about 3 volts. I tested the blue wire right before it went into the 7 pin connector, and it measured 12 volts. I'm thinking maybe the 7 pin connector on my truck is bad?

opnspaces

San Diego Ca

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Posted: 06/11/19 06:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I don't buy the burnishing. I've never burnished brakes and haven't noticed a difference in stopping power. Even if burnishing has an effect, I don't think it will have the effect you're looking for.

You could have a wiring problem, or you could have an adjustment problem, or possibly both.

Here's what I would do in roughly this order.

Have a helper start the TV but leave it in park. Have them cycle the manual brake slide while you listen for a hum from each trailer wheel. If no hum from a wheel that brake is not working.

I have always hated adjusting drum brakes because the drums are never very round and you will hear light scraping long before they are adequately adjusted. I would adjust them to where you hear a decent drag. If you can turn the wheel by hand without really forcing it then they'll be okay. If you spin a wheel and let go and they spin more than 2-3 turns they are too loose.

Here's a few links to brake discussions.
Link 1

Link 2


You might have to run new heavier gauge wires to each brake. It will probably make the biggest difference out of all the changes. There was a post on here a few years ago by user Spike99 where they were using what they called star wiring. In effect it is parallel wiring to the wheels instead of the serial wiring that most manufacturers use. Here's a picture.
[image]


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DFord

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Posted: 06/11/19 08:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had a tag axle with electric brakes on my last motorhome. I put an Ampmeter in the circuit so I could tell how much power was actually being applied to the magnets. The range of the meter was only 6 amps as I remember. You might want to try and find one. Ampmeters are wired in series with the brakes (the blue wire) so all power goes through it.


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1320Fastback

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Posted: 06/11/19 10:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My old truck has a Ampmeter for the brakes and is interesting to watch to see it change as I apply pedal pressure. Truck also has a hydraulic controller instead of the fancy electric ones with accelerometers.

Sounds like your onto something OP with the voltage drop at your connector. Corrosion most likely.


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