RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 6  
Prev  |  Next
Sponsored By:
JRscooby

Indepmo

Full Member

Joined: 06/10/2019

View Profile


Online
Posted: 07/02/19 05:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Buffblazer wrote:



Also on the burner. I have the main gas line coming in, then the little slot for the electronic ignition, and then on the other side is what looks like a brown probe. It runs from the burner back to the gas valve next to the switches. It doesn’t look like a gas line but does connect to where all the lines are.

Anyone have any idea what I’m talking about? Not the best with describing it.


What you are describing is the thermo-coupler. Heat from the flame generates a small amount of electricity. If the gas valve does not see that electricity it closes, shutting off the gas. When lighting, you need to hold a button? That is to by-pass the safety device while the thermo-coupler heats up. If your flame stays lit, that is not a issue.

Buffblazer

Rocky Mountains

New Member

Joined: 06/04/2018

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/02/19 06:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok that makes sense. It was loose so I was wondering if it’s depth in and out of the burner mattered.

So I cleaned everything again, turned on the gas without anything attached to push any debris out of the line and reached up in the chimney and cleaned what I could.

Turned it on with the fans at 7:00 at a fridge temp of 80 and at 9:00 it was 55 ( I know I shouldn’t have opened it but I was curious) I shut off the fans and this morning it was at 25 degree. So that made me super happy. I kicked on the fans and will check it again tonight after a 85 degree day.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

Senior Member

Joined: 06/11/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/02/19 06:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Buffblazer wrote:

Ok that makes sense. It was loose so I was wondering if it’s depth in and out of the burner mattered.

So I cleaned everything again, turned on the gas without anything attached to push any debris out of the line and reached up in the chimney and cleaned what I could.

Turned it on with the fans at 7:00 at a fridge temp of 80 and at 9:00 it was 55 ( I know I shouldn’t have opened it but I was curious) I shut off the fans and this morning it was at 25 degree. So that made me super happy. I kicked on the fans and will check it again tonight after a 85 degree day.


So, with NO fans, the refer got down to 25 degrees? If so, WHY would you operate the Fans? Remember, the point of refer convection is to flow air thru the Condensor fins, REMOVE the heat and flow out the upper vent. IF you force the air thru those fins TOO FAST, they will not remove the heat. So, maybe you have to fast air flow. Doug

JRscooby

Indepmo

Full Member

Joined: 06/10/2019

View Profile


Online
Posted: 07/02/19 06:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cool a case of water in your home fridge, put it in the camper fridge. Wait a day, then check the temp.
If you are thinking a fridge is misbehaving a indoor outdoor thermometer with a thin wire to the remote sender and a memory is a good idea. Reset it every day, and you know what the high (and low) temp was.
Some people like the wireless kind, but I never got one to read thru wall of fridge. My brother uses one in TV to watch the temp of dorm fridge in TT, and another for the icebox...

Buffblazer

Rocky Mountains

New Member

Joined: 06/04/2018

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/02/19 10:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I usually run the fans when the temp is over 80 and in direct sunlight and turn them off at night. Been kind of trial and error to see how much they help or not.

Started off at 25 at 5:30 this morning and the gauge was over 85 when I got home at 6:00. Fans ran all day.

As for the fins, are you talking about the ones that are about half way up the fridge? If so, I have a fan that is directly underneath of those pointed up to draw the fresh inlet air up to the exhaust fans.

So that very well could be my issue. That fan is point blank blowing air over those fins. I went ahead and disconnected it and will see tomorrow when I run the fans for the heat if it makes a difference.

I’m curious though. When I had the camper in the garage when I first installed the fans, I never had an issue with the fridge not staying cold with the fans running, even the one blowing over the fins.

I was on AC power, but that shouldn’t make a difference between propane or AC for the heat on the Fins right?

JRscooby

Indepmo

Full Member

Joined: 06/10/2019

View Profile


Online
Posted: 07/03/19 06:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My fridge is in a '97 model trailer. Over the years I have made it work much better than when I got it.
First I saw the air that came in the bottom vent could go right out the top. Made a baffle (cardboard shaped, then covered with duct tape) from the top of vent to the bottom of fins. This makes all the air go between fins. Then I found the top of cabinet was warm, so made another baffle from top of fins to top of upper vent. This is sloped so the natural rise of the warmer air (heated by fins) is pushed out the vent. Also I used some light gauge of that metal I can't say or spell to help guide the heat from chimney out vent.
I have one of the little fans, but only turn it on if I expect the temps over 100.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

Senior Member

Joined: 06/11/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/03/19 06:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Buffblazer wrote:

I usually run the fans when the temp is over 80 and in direct sunlight and turn them off at night. Been kind of trial and error to see how much they help or not.

Started off at 25 at 5:30 this morning and the gauge was over 85 when I got home at 6:00. Fans ran all day.

As for the fins, are you talking about the ones that are about half way up the fridge? If so, I have a fan that is directly underneath of those pointed up to draw the fresh inlet air up to the exhaust fans.

So that very well could be my issue. That fan is point blank blowing air over those fins. I went ahead and disconnected it and will see tomorrow when I run the fans for the heat if it makes a difference.

I’m curious though. When I had the camper in the garage when I first installed the fans, I never had an issue with the fridge not staying cold with the fans running, even the one blowing over the fins.

I was on AC power, but that shouldn’t make a difference between propane or AC for the heat on the Fins right?


Regardless of what some think, Running on LP or 120 makes no difference is cooling. The BTU's are designed to get the same output. Now, LINE voltage will make a difference on 120 and LOW LP pressure on LP. LP pressure is critical to correct performance on LP. 10.5 versus 11.5(correct) will yield poor cooling. 10.5 will not be noticeable on Furnace/Range/water heater operation. But will on Reefer LP operation. Below 115 volts will affect 120 operation is higher ambient temps. Doug

Buffblazer

Rocky Mountains

New Member

Joined: 06/04/2018

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/03/19 08:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Scooby: thanks for the advice, I think I will have to do that mod myself.

Doug: is there a way to test the LP pressure from home? Or do I need to take it in to the dealer?

Checked it this morning, temp was at 55 with no fans running. So Monday it was 80 during the day, cooled to 25 that night, over 80 that evening and now is at 55. The fluctuation is confusing me.

ajriding

st clair

Senior Member

Joined: 12/28/2004

View Profile



Posted: 07/04/19 12:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

IF you force the air thru those fins TOO FAST, they will not remove the heat. So, maybe you have to fast air flow. Doug


Umm, never heard that one before….
Every other finned cooler (lawnmowers, motorcycles, electronics etc) cools better with faster air, Im not disagreeing, I just saying more airflow will cool the fins faster…
What can happen with wrong fan placement is that the air gets turbulent and does not do a good job flowing through the fins.

Odd that your fridge does this. I am not an expert on where the AC heating element is in relation to the flame.
Most common is when fridges are run out of level they quit working slowly. What happens is the chemicals get trapped in the coils and stuff burns and cakes up like concrete down at the burner bulb. I am wondering if you have some cooked stuff above the flame, but wherever the AC element is maybe not as much cooked stuff, thus is able to get the heat into the system better.

The temp solution is to remove fridge, turn upside down so the burnt stuff moves out of the way so the heat can do its job. This solution does not last forever, but buys you time.

If you have a decent size flame then it should be cooling better just 55. It should be a little bigger than a candle flame at least.

I have hears sounds from the fridge, but only at night when it is dead quiet. A roar is common from a boiler, but not a fridge, but the fridge sound is amplified through the chimney - its a roar sound, but not a loud one by any means.

Fas are good, but I dont think they address your situation given it works so well on AC.

If the fridge side is in direct sunlight then it will be hard to cool it. Eliminate this as a variable from AC to propane.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

Senior Member

Joined: 06/11/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/05/19 06:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ajriding wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

IF you force the air thru those fins TOO FAST, they will not remove the heat. So, maybe you have to fast air flow. Doug


Umm, never heard that one before….
Every other finned cooler (lawnmowers, motorcycles, electronics etc) cools better with faster air, Im not disagreeing, I just saying more airflow will cool the fins faster…
What can happen with wrong fan placement is that the air gets turbulent and does not do a good job flowing through the fins.

Odd that your fridge does this. I am not an expert on where the AC heating element is in relation to the flame.
Most common is when fridges are run out of level they quit working slowly. What happens is the chemicals get trapped in the coils and stuff burns and cakes up like concrete down at the burner bulb. I am wondering if you have some cooked stuff above the flame, but wherever the AC element is maybe not as much cooked stuff, thus is able to get the heat into the system better.

The temp solution is to remove fridge, turn upside down so the burnt stuff moves out of the way so the heat can do its job. This solution does not last forever, but buys you time.

If you have a decent size flame then it should be cooling better just 55. It should be a little bigger than a candle flame at least.

I have hears sounds from the fridge, but only at night when it is dead quiet. A roar is common from a boiler, but not a fridge, but the fridge sound is amplified through the chimney - its a roar sound, but not a loud one by any means.

Fas are good, but I dont think they address your situation given it works so well on AC.

If the fridge side is in direct sunlight then it will be hard to cool it. Eliminate this as a variable from AC to propane.


Simple test Technicians use it when testing AC's. Get in your car and turn on the Dash AC. Then using a digital Thermometer, note the cold output temp on Lo fan then med fan then hi fan. You will notice on LO fan, the output is COLDER. Because, the air moves over the evap fins slower and has time to absorb more cold. Same principle on removing heat on a CONVECTION type Condensor. Now, on a Car Radiator, the more air flow it will remove heat better. Doug

'PS. The Blockage of a cooling unit is no where near the burner . It is between the freezer and lower section coil. Burping will just be a temporary fix.

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 6  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS