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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Disappointed in Disc Brakes

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Posted: 07/17/19 12:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

eHoefler wrote:

On that year Ford truck, you need an adaptor to use the factory brake contoller for electric/hydralic brakes.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Titan/T4846000.html


X2^^. There is an extra integration module that goes between the truck's IBC and the brake actuator on our model years (same for GMC, too). MOR/ryde installed it when they did our brakes and everything works like a charm. Ignore the comments about aftermarket controllers - your IBC is superior.

Rob


U.S. Army retired
2016 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
MOR/ryde independent suspension, disc brakes, LR G tires
PullRite OE 18K, Demco Glide Ride pin box
2012 F350 CC DRW Lariat 6.7
Full-time since 8/2015


lenr

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 07/17/19 01:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the responses--
Update and details: My 2012 XLT does have an Electric Hydraulic setting, and that is what it is set on. It has been my goal from the start to try to make the IBC work because I want trailer braking controlled by how hard I push on the petal. The IBC set to electric has worked fine with drum brakes. The truck is an XLT—don’t know if that affects additional adjustments, but I can find nothing but gain. The advantage of a Prodigy would be that the initial boost could be set such that it turns the pump on and the gain could be set for smooth transition from that point to just below tire lockup. My present setup is ANYTHING but smooth.

One question does seem to be answered—Titan gets the vote. I’m going to research the interface module—maybe it provides different functions beyond proper loading for controllers lacking hydraulic settings. Part of the problem with the Dexter actuator is that it does have a higher turn on voltage, so it doesn’t get rolling until the controller is calling for a good chunk of braking—thus the jerkiness. Maybe the interface helps with that issue.

lenr

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 07/17/19 01:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One more question-> Those of you running the Titan with the Ford adapter, are you leaving the IBC set to electric even if there is an Hydraulic selection available? When I did some Voltage tests setting in the driveway, the two settings did not seem to make any difference. (My owners manual says there is no IBC output reduction for speed when using the manual lever.)

Planning

Idaho

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Posted: 07/17/19 03:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

lenr wrote:

One more question-> Those of you running the Titan with the Ford adapter, are you leaving the IBC set to electric even if there is an Hydraulic selection available? When I did some Voltage tests setting in the driveway, the two settings did not seem to make any difference. (My owners manual says there is no IBC output reduction for speed when using the manual lever.)


Yes, set to Electric over Hydraulic setting on Ford OEM controller.

Per the Ford manual: "Choose either the electric option for trailers with electromagnetic drum brakes, or the electric over hydraulic option for trailers with these brake systems.

Trailer Brake Effort Setting
The trailer brake controller allows the user to customize how aggressively the trailer brakes engage. The default value is the low setting and is the recommended setting for most trailers. If your trailer's brakes require more initial voltage, or if you prefer more aggressive trailer braking, then select either the medium or the high setting.
"

Here is the recommended adapter that operates as an interface between the Ford controller and the actuator:

[image]

Ford/Chevy Adapter for Titan Brake-Rite EHB Actuators #4846000

* This post was edited 07/17/19 03:56pm by Planning *


2016 AF 29-5K; 2016 F350 6.7, 4x4, CCLB DRW

Gdetrailer

PA

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Posted: 07/17/19 03:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

lenr wrote:

Thanks for the responses--
Update and details: My 2012 XLT does have an Electric Hydraulic setting, and that is what it is set on. It has been my goal from the start to try to make the IBC work because I want trailer braking controlled by how hard I push on the petal. The IBC set to electric has worked fine with drum brakes. The truck is an XLT—don’t know if that affects additional adjustments, but I can find nothing but gain. The advantage of a Prodigy would be that the initial boost could be set such that it turns the pump on and the gain could be set for smooth transition from that point to just below tire lockup. My present setup is ANYTHING but smooth.

One question does seem to be answered—Titan gets the vote. I’m going to research the interface module—maybe it provides different functions beyond proper loading for controllers lacking hydraulic settings. Part of the problem with the Dexter actuator is that it does have a higher turn on voltage, so it doesn’t get rolling until the controller is calling for a good chunk of braking—thus the jerkiness. Maybe the interface helps with that issue.


I believe the Lariat and above trim levels with Productivity screen had additional settings which allowed for a low/med/high output setting..

Sounds like the Dexter actuator may be the culprit if it needs a higher turn on voltage.

Ford IBC like a lot of modern brake controllers use a modulated waveform on the output, basically turns 12V on/off quickly rather than a linear voltage ramp up/down. AKA "PWM" (Pulse Width Modulation) the longer on voltage, the more current is allowed to flow, turn on voltage for shorter time and less current flows.

Sounds like the Dexter controller is not able to deal well with this..

Adding a old brake magnet or resistor may help filter the choppy output so the actuator is able to properly interpret the IBC output (which is the solution for IBCs that do not have EOH setting).

Using a Prodigy just simply MASKS the short coming of the actuator by giving a "boost setting".. But the Prodigy like the Ford IBC also modulates the output voltage (PWM) so it may or may not solve the Dexter actuator problem fully..

Lynnmor

Red Lion

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Posted: 07/17/19 04:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I see nothing in your owners manual about a electric over hydraulic setting. Later models have several settings, but not yours unless it has been modified.





Gdetrailer

PA

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Posted: 07/17/19 04:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lynnmor wrote:

I see nothing in your owners manual about a electric over hydraulic setting. Later models have several settings, but not yours unless it has been modified.


OP may have a "later" build than the manual, I believe my early 2013 XLT has EOH setting in one of the menus, can't remember seeing it mentioned in my manual either (never needed it since I don't have EOH brakes).

Not ALL features were available in ALL trim levels either.. Confusing and stupid, yeah, but once you get past that, the Ford IBC performs just as good as my old faithful Jordan 2020 (pulled that out of my old 2003 to keep as a backup plan if the IBC gives trouble).

Planning

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Posted: 07/17/19 04:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lynnmor wrote:

I see nothing in your owners manual about a electric over hydraulic setting. Later models have several settings, but not yours unless it has been modified.


He indicated it had the settings: "When I did some Voltage tests setting in the driveway, the two settings did not seem to make any difference.

lenr

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 07/17/19 06:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My truck is 2012 Job 2 Premium Package. It has the larger dash display that came standard with the higher line trucks that year. It has the menu entry: “Settings |Driver Assist | Trailer Brake Mode | Electric or Elec. over Hydraulic”. The issued owner’s manual says it has been verified to work with some Electric over Hydraulic systems—check with your dealer to find out which ones. I’m betting my dealer wouldn’t have a clue. I see nothing in the owner’s manual nor in the display about aggressive settings—it sounds like the aggressive setting might solve the problem, but it doesn’t exist for me. Now I need to figure how to get this fixed less expensive than buying a new truck.

Planning

Idaho

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Posted: 07/17/19 07:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

lenr wrote:

I need to figure how to get this fixed less expensive than buying a new truck.


I think that:

1. The Titan Brakerite EH Brake Actuator

in conjunction with the

2. Ford/Chevy Adapter for Titan Brake-Rite EHB Actuators #4846000

and

3. Ensuring well-bled lines and calipers with new fluid.

Here are some pages from my manual (2016):

[image]

[image]

[image]

* This post was edited 07/17/19 08:09pm by Planning *

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