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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  Class C

 > Handling/steering.

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dennyida

clinton iowa

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Posted: 07/30/19 05:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good morning, Jayco, I just wanted to let you know that we took our Granite ridge to Jack`s brake and alignment in Davenport Iowa. They work on buses, heavy duty trucks and the like. It might be a shorter drive for you. Ask them if they have the records of working on a 2005 Jayco granite ridge . OWner denny and Ida Giebelstein from clinton Iowa. If you want you can call me at 563 242 7988 Again GOOD LUCK

Sam Spade

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Posted: 07/30/19 07:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dennyida wrote:

some good people gave me the camber and caster settings for the class c with the 450 chassis.


Excellent post. I forgot about that critical part.
The information should already be ON here in an old message thread......if you can find it.

If not, someone should have it. I don't. My C is gone.


'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

mgirardo

Brunswick, GA

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Posted: 07/30/19 07:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is this a new problem? Did it just start happening?

Our 2009 Jayco Greyhawk Class C (bought April 2009) drove great when we first brought it home. I was very happy with how it handled. Then in late 2016/early 2017, it started to wander a little on the highway. Not bad, but not like it used to be. I took it to a trusted mechanic to replace the tires and asked them to do an alignment. They replaced the tires and told me the ball joints needed to be replaced. I don't remember the exact cost, but it was just under $1000. The parts are cheap, it is mostly labor. After they replaced the ball joints and did an alignment, it drove like new again - maybe even better. Our Greyhawk had just over 30,000 miles when the ball joints were replaced.

If I were you, I would start with an alignment and go from there.

-Michael


Michael Girardo
2017 Jayco Jayflight Bungalow 40BHQS Destination Trailer
2009 Jayco Greyhawk 31FS Class C Motorhome (previously owned)
2006 Rockwood Roo 233 Hybrid Travel Trailer (previously owned)
1995 Jayco Eagle 12KB pop-up (previously owned)

ron.dittmer

North-East Illinois

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Posted: 07/30/19 12:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A 2003 E450 has the poorly engineered and under-rated front stabilizer bar. The rear stabilizer bar is good but under-rated for the poster's particular application. Given his complaints, I advise to replace both front and rear bars with affordable heavy duty Helwig brand versions. They are fairly simple to install for a do-it-yourselfer.

New front & rear heavy duty stabilizer bars along with a front wheel alignment and the right tire pressure, all in combination will make a noticeable improvement. But I fear you will have to go yet another step and replace your shocks with heavy duty Bilsteins, and maybe adding a rear trac bar.

BUT first make sure your ball joints are not worn.


2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow


okiejoe

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Posted: 07/30/19 01:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 31 ft class c and tow a toad, after purchasing it I added Hellwig heavy duty sway bars and got rid of those cheap factory sway bars then add a Safe T Plus Steering control and Bilstein Shocks. HUGE improvement. Just for fun added Sumo Springs to all four corners. Now I can drive it with one had and wind barely moves me. My coach is basically nail to the road.

Sam Spade

North Central Florida

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Posted: 07/30/19 02:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not wanting to beat a dead horse here BUT......

You can spend a butt load of time and money changing out parts but if you do not get it aligned to the proper modified specs it might all be a big waste.

Find the modified alignment specs on here and DO THAT FIRST.

Harvard

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Posted: 07/31/19 05:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dennyida wrote:

Hi, I know exactly what you are going through. We had a 2005 granite ridge on a 450 chassis.I put new shocks , tires and had the front end aligned at a local shop and it was still a white knuckle experience to drive. I went on this forum and some good people gave me the camber and caster settings for the class c with the 450 chassis.My local shop would not set up the unit with the settings i was given so i found a truck alignment shop and they set the unit up with the new settings. The unit drove like a new car. The shop that did the work said they wish they had these settings before because there were a lot of people with class c units that have the same problem. I cant remember the settings now but i`m sure someone on this forum can tell you. Good luck


The secret to handling is in the Caster setting...about +5.5 on RH and +5.3 on LH. Even more is better....

Here is a link to our experience, circa 2010

Cruisineasy

Hayward

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Posted: 08/02/19 04:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You also might try changing the air pressure in the tires.
I have a 31' Jayco Greyhawk and pull a 2008 Ford Focus on a dolly. Did the same thing. I checked the tag on the drivers door. Recommended 80psi on the 4 rear tires and 75psi on the front. Made a world of difference and cost nothing..

Road Dog

Waukesha,WI

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Posted: 08/02/19 07:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ditto on the caster settings! At least 5 degrees positive when you get a front end alignment. The next thing you should do is get a track bar for the rear end also known as a Panhard bar. Do these first before you spend a bunch of money. I learned the hard way after owning 4 class C coaches. You can add shocks and other stuff later,but try this first. You will be amazed. Good luck!

CharlesinGA

South of Atlanta, Georgia

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Posted: 08/02/19 11:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The +5° caster settings will require a special aftermarket eccentric bushing. These are readily available from a number of companies. I think Moog carries them, not sure who else.

Charles

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