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 > Bunkhouses similar to 272BHS with light hitch weight

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itsjustjer

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 07/31/19 11:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I guess an easier way to put it would be:

We have a total of 820 lbs of payload left after everything.

What is a good bunkhouse floor plan with a hitch weight we can safely accommodate?

twodownzero

NM

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Posted: 07/31/19 01:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

itsjustjer wrote:

I guess an easier way to put it would be:

We have a total of 820 lbs of payload left after everything.

What is a good bunkhouse floor plan with a hitch weight we can safely accommodate?


If you are going to use a 1/2 ton tow vehicle, you should be looking at lightweight 25' travel trailers at the most. Minimizing hitch weight to prevent overloading your tow vehicle is a recipe for disaster. It will make the trailer inherently unstable and it'll be especially unsafe on a vehicle with passenger tires.

Fortunately there are a gazillion lightweight 25 footers out there with empty weights quite a bit lighter than the model you're looking at, so you should have no problem finding one that will be light enough to solve your problem.

Or do what I'd do and buy a 3/4 ton Suburban.

itsjustjer

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 07/31/19 02:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

twodownzero wrote:

itsjustjer wrote:

I guess an easier way to put it would be:

We have a total of 820 lbs of payload left after everything.

What is a good bunkhouse floor plan with a hitch weight we can safely accommodate?


If you are going to use a 1/2 ton tow vehicle, you should be looking at lightweight 25' travel trailers at the most. Minimizing hitch weight to prevent overloading your tow vehicle is a recipe for disaster. It will make the trailer inherently unstable and it'll be especially unsafe on a vehicle with passenger tires.

Fortunately there are a gazillion lightweight 25 footers out there with empty weights quite a bit lighter than the model you're looking at, so you should have no problem finding one that will be light enough to solve your problem.

Or do what I'd do and buy a 3/4 ton Suburban.


Thanks for the info on the 25 footers. I’ll narrow down to them and see what kind of floor plans they offer.

I feel like I should clarify my original post to inform that I’m not trying to manipulate the hitch weight, but find one that is built/configured by the manufacturer to have as close to 10% hitch weight as possible. One camper with a 5k dry weight has a 500lb hitch weight (when dry) and another 5k camper has an 750 hitch weight (when dry). So that tells me the manufacturer built that 750 hitch weight camper with more weight toward the front obviously. Both 5k lbs, but one has 250lbs more payload on the truck before you even load it up. The disparity only gets greater as the loaded weight of the camper gets greater. What I’m asking in my original post is if anyone knows of a camper that (by design of the manufacturer) has as good of (or better) hitch weight ratio than the 272BHS. Not looking for ways to lighten or misappropriate the weight in a way that was not designed by the manufacturer.

nickthehunter

Southgate, MI

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Posted: 07/31/19 02:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Any trailer that has a front pass thru storage is going to get heavier tongue weight when it is loaded (not too mention the battery and propane added to the tongue). So a trailer with a 10% tongue weight dry goes to 12% tongue weight when loaded. So take a fully loaded 6500 lbs trailer at 12% tongue weight all of a sudden your at 800 lbs± tongue weight. And yes, you will 1,000 lbs of stuff to a 26 - 28 foot trailer, everyone but the rare loner does.

Lwiddis

Hearst San Simeon State Park

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Posted: 07/31/19 03:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

“find one that is built/configured by the manufacturer to have as close to 10% hitch weight as possible”

Sure, a trailer can be built with only 10% tongue weight. Just move the axles forward BUT that doesn’t prevent sway. In fact it invites trailer sway. Watch a YouTube video showing bad sway. That’ll make you understand.


Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2019 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, 300 watts solar-parallel & MPPT, Trojan T-125s. TALL pole for flags. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, USF&WS, state & county camps. Bicyclist! 14 year Army vet - 11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560)


twodownzero

NM

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Posted: 07/31/19 04:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

itsjustjer wrote:

twodownzero wrote:

itsjustjer wrote:

I guess an easier way to put it would be:

We have a total of 820 lbs of payload left after everything.

What is a good bunkhouse floor plan with a hitch weight we can safely accommodate?


If you are going to use a 1/2 ton tow vehicle, you should be looking at lightweight 25' travel trailers at the most. Minimizing hitch weight to prevent overloading your tow vehicle is a recipe for disaster. It will make the trailer inherently unstable and it'll be especially unsafe on a vehicle with passenger tires.

Fortunately there are a gazillion lightweight 25 footers out there with empty weights quite a bit lighter than the model you're looking at, so you should have no problem finding one that will be light enough to solve your problem.

Or do what I'd do and buy a 3/4 ton Suburban.


Thanks for the info on the 25 footers. I’ll narrow down to them and see what kind of floor plans they offer.

I feel like I should clarify my original post to inform that I’m not trying to manipulate the hitch weight, but find one that is built/configured by the manufacturer to have as close to 10% hitch weight as possible. One camper with a 5k dry weight has a 500lb hitch weight (when dry) and another 5k camper has an 750 hitch weight (when dry). So that tells me the manufacturer built that 750 hitch weight camper with more weight toward the front obviously. Both 5k lbs, but one has 250lbs more payload on the truck before you even load it up. The disparity only gets greater as the loaded weight of the camper gets greater. What I’m asking in my original post is if anyone knows of a camper that (by design of the manufacturer) has as good of (or better) hitch weight ratio than the 272BHS. Not looking for ways to lighten or misappropriate the weight in a way that was not designed by the manufacturer.


You don't want to be "as close to 10% as possible." In reality, you want to be "at least 10%, and preferably considerably more than that," especially if you're towing with a 1/2 ton vehicle.

When I tow my flatbed car trailer, I pull the car as far forward as I can to maximize tongue weight. The more, the merrier! Unless your Suburban is overloaded as a result, there's no such thing as too much tongue weight. The 10% should be viewed as an absolute bare minimum number. Ideally, you want more than that.

Tongue weight = stability. Get as much of it as you can, use a WD hitch, and make your trailer as stable pulling as it can get.

APT

SE Michigan

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Posted: 08/01/19 05:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

While it is good to have that detailed analysis, I would stop there. If you are @ GVWR +/- 100 pounds you won't tell much difference. Pick the model your family (or wife) likes best and focus on a good WDH and how to adjust it. If you restore 100% of front axle weight, you will put some of the loaded TW back on the TT axles, not the TV axles, maybe 10%. Move on to the enjoyment of RVing phase.


A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R

badercubed

Canandaigua, NY

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Posted: 08/02/19 06:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Coachman Apex Ultra-Lite 288BHS


2019 Apex Nano 208BHS
2018 GMC Canyon Crew Cab SLE

Been camping for 36 of my 37 years!

drsteve

Michigan

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Posted: 08/02/19 07:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

itsjustjer wrote:


I feel like I should clarify my original post to inform that I’m not trying to manipulate the hitch weight, but find one that is built/configured by the manufacturer to have as close to 10% hitch weight as possible. One camper with a 5k dry weight has a 500lb hitch weight (when dry) and another 5k camper has an 750 hitch weight (when dry). So that tells me the manufacturer built that 750 hitch weight camper with more weight toward the front obviously. Both 5k lbs, but one has 250lbs more payload on the truck before you even load it up. The disparity only gets greater as the loaded weight of the camper gets greater. What I’m asking in my original post is if anyone knows of a camper that (by design of the manufacturer) has as good of (or better) hitch weight ratio than the 272BHS. Not looking for ways to lighten or misappropriate the weight in a way that was not designed by the manufacturer.


You are assuming that the manufacturer's dry tongue weight number is accurate. There is no assurance that this is the case.


2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP

itsjustjer

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 08/02/19 11:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

drsteve wrote:

itsjustjer wrote:


I feel like I should clarify my original post to inform that I’m not trying to manipulate the hitch weight, but find one that is built/configured by the manufacturer to have as close to 10% hitch weight as possible. One camper with a 5k dry weight has a 500lb hitch weight (when dry) and another 5k camper has an 750 hitch weight (when dry). So that tells me the manufacturer built that 750 hitch weight camper with more weight toward the front obviously. Both 5k lbs, but one has 250lbs more payload on the truck before you even load it up. The disparity only gets greater as the loaded weight of the camper gets greater. What I’m asking in my original post is if anyone knows of a camper that (by design of the manufacturer) has as good of (or better) hitch weight ratio than the 272BHS. Not looking for ways to lighten or misappropriate the weight in a way that was not designed by the manufacturer.


You are assuming that the manufacturer's dry tongue weight number is accurate. There is no assurance that this is the case.


Pardon me if I come across as frustrated with this post, but if we can’t depend on ANY numbers from the vehicle or the RV manufacturer to be correct, then how has anyone ever purchased a vehicle and RV and known they were within their limits until after the fact?

Maybe we’ll just rent whatever model we’re thinking of buying and take it to the scale. Even then, that particular trailer isn’t going to weigh the same as the specific one we’ll be buying.

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