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Open Roads Forum  >  Fifth-Wheels

 > Hitch choice

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dryfly

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Posted: 08/25/19 12:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Let me re-phrase my question as I am not asking about the pros and cons of a pull test. I've heard the arguments for the proceedure, and they are all worthwhile.

I'm assuming one can see the jaws are wrapped around the pin correctly, the handle is closed correctly, and the locking pin is in the pull handle. Based on this, couldn't you "visually" tell if you are high hitched or not?

If NOT, is there any way you could drop the trailer on the bed, unless the hitch had a defect?

cummins2014

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Posted: 08/25/19 06:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dryfly wrote:

Let me re-phrase my question as I am not asking about the pros and cons of a pull test. I've heard the arguments for the proceedure, and they are all worthwhile.

I'm assuming one can see the jaws are wrapped around the pin correctly, the handle is closed correctly, and the locking pin is in the pull handle. Based on this, couldn't you "visually" tell if you are high hitched or not?

If NOT, is there any way you could drop the trailer on the bed, unless the hitch had a defect?


High hitching is very visible, there would be a gap between the top surface of the hitch ,and the bottom of the pin box, the two would not be mated.

I think yes, there is no way you could drop a fifth wheel the way you are asking, but thats a loaded question you asked. All those things have to be done EVERY time, if not then we get right back to IMO a pull test is FOOLPROOF.

Basically what some are saying is they never forget to do all those things, you know what they say about never .

Michelle.S

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Posted: 08/25/19 06:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you keep the King Pin just a fraction below the hitch plate and let the King Pin ride up as you back into it, you'll never "High Hitch".


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Durb

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Posted: 08/25/19 08:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cummins12V98 wrote:

"I justified the cost of my TS3 after just 30 minutes towing with a B&W Patriot which was a nightmare."

PLEASE tell what was creating a "nightmare" for you with the Patriot?


For various reasons, my trailer chucks severely. The Patriot very efficiently transferred all the chucking forces to our seat-backs. Wife told me to fix it or sell the trailer after our first 30 minutes. Did the Bilstiens and air bag thing - nothing. The TS3 fixed it, pure and simple. Not the Patriot's fault, It's just a solid piece of steel that is akin to bolting your pin box to the frame of your truck. I hope the OP's trailer is a smooth runner and he is happy with a solid hitch.

dryfly

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Posted: 08/25/19 09:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cummins2014 wrote:



Basically what some are saying is they never forget to do all those things, you know what they say about never .


And, I'm sure there are those who "never" forget to do a pull test.

Everyone has to have the hookup routine that makes them feel the most confident that they have done everything possible to prevent failure. Also, they pay the consequences of their actions if they are wrong. Sounds like there are different opinions out there.

After reading lots of posts through the years I've found there are lots of good brands of hitches and everyone has their favorite, as well as their own hookup procedure. I still enjoy learning from everyone on this forum.

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Posted: 08/26/19 01:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dryfly wrote:

Let me re-phrase my question as I am not asking about the pros and cons of a pull test. I've heard the arguments for the proceedure, and they are all worthwhile.

I'm assuming one can see the jaws are wrapped around the pin correctly, the handle is closed correctly, and the locking pin is in the pull handle. Based on this, couldn't you "visually" tell if you are high hitched or not?

If NOT, is there any way you could drop the trailer on the bed, unless the hitch had a defect?



I know that I have always lower the kingpin before I get all the way in lower than the hitch and as I'm backing in the kingpin ride up on the pad of the hitch and seat itself into the locking claw. I have never drop it in I don't know that way only what I have been told by the dealer. ( I know I'm in trouble now) listening to the dealer and we know where that will get you.


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cummins2014

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Posted: 08/26/19 08:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dryfly wrote:

cummins2014 wrote:



Basically what some are saying is they never forget to do all those things, you know what they say about never .


And, I'm sure there are those who "never" forget to do a pull test.

Everyone has to have the hookup routine that makes them feel the most confident that they have done everything possible to prevent failure. Also, they pay the consequences of their actions if they are wrong. Sounds like there are different opinions out there.

After reading lots of posts through the years I've found there are lots of good brands of hitches and everyone has their favorite, as well as their own hookup procedure. I still enjoy learning from everyone on this forum.


It is certainly a process that has to be followed regardless of how you do it. I do see where one has backed off a bit on the no need for a pull test with the B&W.

You can do whatever you want when you hookup, but to come on a forum and advise against the general wisdom of hooking up , that there is no need for a " PULL TEST " is bad advice. B&W or not .

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 08/26/19 08:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dryfly wrote:

Let me re-phrase my question as I am not asking about the pros and cons of a pull test. I've heard the arguments for the proceedure, and they are all worthwhile.

I'm assuming one can see the jaws are wrapped around the pin correctly, the handle is closed correctly, and the locking pin is in the pull handle. Based on this, couldn't you "visually" tell if you are high hitched or not?

If NOT, is there any way you could drop the trailer on the bed, unless the hitch had a defect?


SIMPLE answer is YES. That is "IF" you do a VISUAL test.


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Cummins12V98

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Posted: 08/26/19 08:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Durb wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

"I justified the cost of my TS3 after just 30 minutes towing with a B&W Patriot which was a nightmare."

PLEASE tell what was creating a "nightmare" for you with the Patriot?


For various reasons, my trailer chucks severely. The Patriot very efficiently transferred all the chucking forces to our seat-backs. Wife told me to fix it or sell the trailer after our first 30 minutes. Did the Bilstiens and air bag thing - nothing. The TS3 fixed it, pure and simple. Not the Patriot's fault, It's just a solid piece of steel that is akin to bolting your pin box to the frame of your truck. I hope the OP's trailer is a smooth runner and he is happy with a solid hitch.


Glad you fixed the issue. Your RAW, what tires you run with what amount of air and how much air in the air bags loaded will make or break how the RV pulls. Pin percentage of RV is another biggie. Your hitch is doing it's job but masking the real issue.

So bottom line " B&W Patriot which was a nightmare" really was not a fair statement without clarification.

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 08/26/19 09:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Love when people TWIST my words!!!

Visual test is simply a test, either you do one or the other or you don't.

This is a handle closed and locked VISUAL test below.

[image]

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