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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Atwood Water Heater Tank Crack Repair ? UPDATE

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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 08/04/19 05:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Update 11 Aug
-----------

Not sure yet, but it appears a friend might need a tank repair. Can you fix that with the usual suspect car body repair stuff--fibreglass and that Bondo goop or whatever?

She has water coming out on the floor from under the tank at the inside end ( where the hot and cold and by-pass hoses are attached--they are not leaking) and the outside where the drain plug is.

I can't think of any other hose connection or whatever that might leak between the ends of the tank underneath above the floor.

It is possible, but not known, that the tank might have frozen while full in the winter. Would that crack a tank?

It will be a few days before I can pull the whole thing out from her trailer and see where the leak is, but in the meantime, it would be useful to know whether if it is the tank, it can be a DIY fix.

Thanks

* This post was edited 08/11/19 02:52pm by BFL13 *


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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 08/04/19 05:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Once you gat it out, some good welder might be able to help.
Not sure if it would be cost effective. May cost more then a replacement tank. Tank
I would not trust JB Weld or Bondo! Might get too hot!


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garyemunson

Reno, Nevada

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Posted: 08/04/19 05:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A frozen tank is shot. Get a replacement. Hard to see a crack that didn't quite go through but will fail soon when you start using it again. Buy a new tank.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 08/04/19 05:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Got that, thanks. I will start a new thread on this if need be, once I can see what is really going on.

Main thing now is that she is buying a ton of wasp spray killer, so I can even get near the thing outside! [emoticon] (Same with her fridge outside, but at least it works ok.)

She does need a new floor which has gone all soft from that and from whatever is leaking, if anything else is besides the hot water tank.

One of those deals where you cannot estimate the scope of the repair work until you open it up. ("work arising") I am the lucky volunteer. [emoticon]

Oh well, everyone needs a project! (It's a DW rule and it's her friend, and besides our own RV is between "events" at the moment.) I will drag the Forum into things that might arise if need be.

stevemorris

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Posted: 08/04/19 06:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

replace it!! I replied to your other thread about extra parts as well
if you use 120V hoolups in a campground lots, get one that runs on 120 as well as propane.
it doesn't heat up as fast on 120 but its totally silent


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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 08/04/19 06:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

stevemorris wrote:

replace it!! I replied to your other thread about extra parts as well
if you use 120V hoolups in a campground lots, get one that runs on 120 as well as propane.
it doesn't heat up as fast on 120 but its totally silent


Thanks. Which other thread was that? ( I have so many [emoticon] ) Hope I didn't miss it. Everyone is so helpful here-I am grateful indeed.

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 08/04/19 06:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Atwood uses an aluminum tank so a welder that can do aluminum can weld crack
Otherwise a new tank can be purchased (comes with new insulation, new T&P Releif Valve and 'seal rings'gaskets' needed to attach tank to drawn pan (old rings have to be cut off on combustion/exhaust ports)

OR buy a complete whole new Atwood water heater
(6 gallon fits 6 gallon opening/10 gallon fits 10 gallon opening)
**Suburban doesn't fit either W/O changing size of opening

If current model is prior 2003 then a new Electric/Combo will need 120VAC/12VDC wiring
If current model is prior 2003 and gas only...new gas only is direct swap
If current model is 2004-present---easy direct swap


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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 08/04/19 06:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I know Atwood has a different tank material from Suburban so it does not need an anode in the drain plug. Hers has that plastic plug for an Atwood. I don't have the model number, but it does have 120v and propane. Trailer is about 10 years old. More later if required. Be a few days.

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 08/04/19 07:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

I know Atwood has a different tank material from Suburban so it does not need an anode in the drain plug. Hers has that plastic plug for an Atwood. I don't have the model number, but it does have 120v and propane. Trailer is about 10 years old. More later if required. Be a few days.


Atwood Aluminum'
Suburban STEEL Tank...which has a glss-lining sprayed inside hence the andoe rod requirement

Trailer 10 yrs old and is combo electric/gas

If 6 gallon.....GC6A-10E Model
If 10 gallon....GC10A-4E Model

Replacement tanks available for each
NEW complete water heater replacement available

stevemorris

ontario

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Posted: 08/05/19 12:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

stevemorris wrote:

replace it!! I replied to your other thread about extra parts as well
if you use 120V hoolups in a campground lots, get one that runs on 120 as well as propane.
it doesn't heat up as fast on 120 but its totally silent


Thanks. Which other thread was that? ( I have so many [emoticon] ) Hope I didn't miss it. Everyone is so helpful here-I am grateful indeed.


my mistake, somebody else in the trailer forum was asking about replacing the same tank!

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