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Open Roads Forum  >  Fifth-Wheels

 > proper hook up procedure?

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dieseltruckdriver

Black Hills of SD

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Posted: 08/05/19 11:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gjac wrote:

Doesn't it depend on the type of hitch you have as to whether or not you use chocks? I watched a video yesterday that Dutchmansport posted of the pros and cons of the various hitch arrangements. It looked like the truck with the Anderson hitch just backed up under the 5th wheel hitch then the 5th wheel was lowered onto the ball. Do you still need chocks for this type of hitch?

Yes you still need chock blocks. As soon as you unhook, the trailer is no longer in your control.


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Allworth

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Posted: 08/05/19 01:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Large, heavy, rubber chocks from Northern Tool, not Harbor Freight or Walmart cheapies.

ON EDIT: Camping World also has some useless ones.


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austinjenna

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Posted: 08/05/19 01:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Harbor Freight makes big rubber chocks that are the same as the more expensive ones.

I took a small level and glued it to a small magnet I had and keep that in the side compartment where the propane is and stuck to the frame. After I unhitch and pull the truck away I open the compartment and turn the whole magnet and level it until its level, or just about - thats where I know I need to be when raising the front legs to hook back up. Its cheap and simple and takes the guess work out of it.

Then I just go about and do my normal front to back routine etc... Also I use chocks as everyone else has mentioned.



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Baremat

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Posted: 08/05/19 01:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Allworth wrote:

Large, heavy, rubber chocks from Northern Tool, not Harbor Freight or Walmart cheapies.

ON EDIT: Camping World also has some useless ones.


Northern Tool chock is really most reliable than other choices.

bpounds

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Posted: 08/05/19 02:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The problem I have with a lot of chocks from HF and the like, is that they are sized for big trucks and are too steep to work properly with typical RV trailer sized tire. The typical truck tire will be over 40" diameter, and the typical RV trailer tire will be closer to 30". It makes the angle all wrong for effectively wedging our smaller tires.

It would behoove some of you to actually test pulling against your chocks and see how they work. A good chock should work on loose dirt.

Personally, I make my own out of scrap lumber and have tested them to be sure they work.


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MarkTwain

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Posted: 08/05/19 03:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

obie311 wrote:

OK I've got it now. Rubber chocks from Horrible Freight OK?

I do the "bump" test now but the advice to only slightly raise the front legs makes a lot of common sense in case the hitch is not fully latched.

Thanks for the help.


When you see a pick up with bed rails bent , you just found some one who did not do a BUMP TEST[emoticon][emoticon][emoticon]

spud1957

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Posted: 08/05/19 03:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rhagfo wrote:

B.O. Plenty wrote:

I use chocks and raise the trailer until the hitch is about 1/2" above the fifth wheel plate. I then back into in at it latches. I leave the front jack legs down and never have had a problem. I don't slide the hitch up the plate as it will put a strain on the jacks.
B.O.


This is a great way to HIGH HITCH!!
If you are worried about the hitch riding up the hitch due to stress, doing that is far less the running down the road!


Both Reese and Pullrite have instructions in their user guide to ride the pin up the hitch. In should be about an inch above the low end of the hitch plate.

I have no concern about undue stress on my front jacks. Properly chocked wheels pretty well eliminates that.

prstlk

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Posted: 08/05/19 11:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Most important is to have a sequence of hooking and unhooking for both tasks, the the same way every time without deviation. Sorry folks be with you in few have to hook up, sorry folks just setting up be with you in few. Follow the same route every time and trailers don't get drooped, power cables not pulled off of posts, and water lines are not pulled off. Same goes for atenas stairs wives husbands and pets,


2007 Keystone Challenger 5th wheel, Ford F350 Super Duty 6.7L Diesel, Short Bed, 2 dogs and the cat and rolling down the road full time since May 2014


mtofell1

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Posted: 08/05/19 11:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gjac wrote:

Doesn't it depend on the type of hitch you have as to whether or not you use chocks? I watched a video yesterday that Dutchmansport posted of the pros and cons of the various hitch arrangements. It looked like the truck with the Anderson hitch just backed up under the 5th wheel hitch then the 5th wheel was lowered onto the ball. Do you still need chocks for this type of hitch?


The type of hitch is irrelevant prior to hooking up. A trailer not hooked to a vehicle should NEVER sit without chocks.

thomas201

Eastern Panhandle WV

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Posted: 08/06/19 06:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I will add, don't be afraid to dolly up or down to adjust your pin height. AND that the bump, or pull test is not enough. Get out of the truck and LOOK (flashlight if needed) to see that the jaws or bar have captured the pin. I once spent half a day jacking up a loaded tanker that some fool of a driver high hitched (submarined the pin). He made half a mile before it fell off the tractor!

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