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paddykernahan
Westland, MI
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Joined: 08/07/2007
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ajriding wrote:I wanted to have one but then did the research.
It will work if you are hooked up to a water source such that when showering you can let the water run the whole time, and are great if you plan to take long showers and waste water…
Bad if you want to conserve water if not hooked up. As soon as you stop the flow the water in the tankless gets hotter, then when you resume you get that hotter water, and when you let it run longer the temp goes back down. No steady temp is possible with the military shower method. Unfortunately the hot water heater is the only way for this. I wish I had a two gallon water heater as I take 1 gallon showers…
In the summer I have learned to just take cold showers. This helps a lot to save water since I boondock it is important. After two showers you get used to cold water and it is not different than washing your hands in cold water.
Agree.
We dry camp mostly so water conservation is needed.
I plumbed a line with a "Y" and valves from the hot water low point drain back to the fresh water tank drain.
When diverter valve is on, hot water constantly runs through the system and dumps back into the fresh water tank. Seems to stabilize the temperature when shutting off and turning on the shower hot water.
When done showering, turn off the water pump.
Turning the valve in the "Y" diverter puts the system back into original configuration so pump can be turned back on for normal operation.
This also save the extra water wasted waiting for the hot water to get to the bathroom. Still needs to purge cold water from the shower head hose so less ware wasted.
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Fizz
Ottawa, Canada
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Joined: 07/28/2003
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paddykernahan wrote:
I plumbed a line with a "Y" and valves from the hot water low point drain back to the fresh water tank drain.
Excellent post THANK YOU.
A problem was fixed and shared.
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JaxDad
Greater Toronto Area
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Joined: 08/02/2011
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Don't forget, as soon as you plumb in propane, 120 volt electric, potable water and or wastewater plumbing you may have problems finding camping spots unless the unit is certified to meet the appropriate standards, I.E. NFPA 1192 / ANSI 119.2.
If you only ever boondock on private land it will likely never be an issue, but elsewhere it's a legal requirement.
You may also have insurance issues without it.
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magicbus
Nantucket Island, MA
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Joined: 06/16/2002
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JaxDad wrote:Don't forget, as soon as you plumb in propane, 120 volt electric, potable water and or wastewater plumbing you may have problems finding camping spots unless the unit is certified to meet the appropriate standards, I.E. NFPA 1192 / ANSI 119.2.
If you only ever boondock on private land it will likely never be an issue, but elsewhere it's a legal requirement.
You may also have insurance issues without it.
Seriously? I can’t recall that ever being an issue when registering at a park or getting insurance. Any chance you can provide some evidence of those statements?
Dave
Current: 2018 Winnebago Era A
Previous: Selene 49 Trawler
Previous: Country Coach Allure 36
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kedanie
Albuquerque, NM
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Joined: 07/24/2009
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Love our Precision Temp RV500 that came in the coach when new. Uses less propane than a tank style. Provides plenty of hot water as long as the pressure is above 40 psi. Is it perfect, no, but what RV product is?
Keith
Keith and Gloria
2013 Tiffin Phaeton 36GH
2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
USAF 1968-1976 Vietnam Veteran
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ajriding
st clair
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Joined: 12/28/2004
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magicbus wrote:JaxDad wrote:Don't forget, as soon as you plumb in propane, 120 volt electric, potable water and or wastewater plumbing you may have problems finding camping spots unless the unit is certified to meet the appropriate standards, I.E. NFPA 1192 / ANSI 119.2.
If you only ever boondock on private land it will likely never be an issue, but elsewhere it's a legal requirement.
You may also have insurance issues without it.
Seriously? I can’t recall that ever being an issue when registering at a park or getting insurance. Any chance you can provide some evidence of those statements?
Dave
Haha, my wiener just fell off
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B.O. Plenty
Minnesota
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Joined: 02/04/2010
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DrewE wrote:I have yet to hear of anyone really happy with an RV tankless water heater. Maybe there are some people I haven't heard of yet; I am certainly not all-knowing. But they seem to have trouble with maintaining anything like an even temperature with the rather widely varying flow rates that are common in an RV.
I believe you mean 2.5 gpm, not 2.5 gph; 2.5 gph is a small trickle, a third of a cup per minute. We have a Suburban in our Cedar Creek. Very happy with it. Comes with a learning curve. Turn the hot open all the way and regulate the temp with the cold. Otherwise it will cycle on and off. No complaints here.
B.O.
Former Ram/Cummins owner
2015 Silverado 3500 D/A DRW
Yup I'm a fanboy!
2016 Cedar Creek 36CKTS
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B.O. Plenty
Minnesota
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Joined: 02/04/2010
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JaxDad wrote:Don't forget, as soon as you plumb in propane, 120 volt electric, potable water and or wastewater plumbing you may have problems finding camping spots unless the unit is certified to meet the appropriate standards, I.E. NFPA 1192 / ANSI 119.2.
If you only ever boondock on private land it will likely never be an issue, but elsewhere it's a legal requirement.
You may also have insurance issues without it. Really like someone is going to check ?????
B.O.
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T18skyguy
Eugene, OR
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Joined: 12/13/2004
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If your going to get a tankless get the Truma. If you do a lot of boondocking or desert camping it's pointless to have it. I have a Girard, it works well, but with any tankless you operate differently than your home shower.First you need acceptable water pressure and flow. Buy a good adjustable water pressure valve and keep the pressure at 40-60 psi which works good for me. Set the temperature on the thermostat to 100 or so, then turn the hot water on full. You don't need the cold water cause the shower temp is set at the thermostat. Mine works fine with this method. A good adjustable quality water pressure valve is a Renator. You can find it on amazon. My Girard will run for 20 minutes, then it cycles off to protect the electronics from too much heat.
Retired Anesthetist. LTP. Pilot with mechanic/inspection ratings. 2017 Jayco Greyhawk 31FS. Wife and daughter. Three cats which we must obey.
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JaxDad
Greater Toronto Area
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Joined: 08/02/2011
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magicbus wrote:JaxDad wrote:Don't forget, as soon as you plumb in propane, 120 volt electric, potable water and or wastewater plumbing you may have problems finding camping spots unless the unit is certified to meet the appropriate standards, I.E. NFPA 1192 / ANSI 119.2.
If you only ever boondock on private land it will likely never be an issue, but elsewhere it's a legal requirement.
You may also have insurance issues without it.
Seriously? I can’t recall that ever being an issue when registering at a park or getting insurance. Any chance you can provide some evidence of those statements?
Dave
If you open the drivers door of your car you’ll see a plate that certifies that it meets the requirements of the FMVSS (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards) as required by law.
Has anyone ever asked you about it? No, I doubt anyone has, or ever will. It’s just taken for granted that your [insert make here] is compliant.
Ditto your RV, because it’s required by law for all it’s just taken for granted that your [insert make here] is compliant also. So no, nobody is likely to ask about it.
But since you asked, as for campground rules, not seeing them, or they being enforced by unknowing (or uncaring) employees, does not mean they do not exist. Below is just one example of the many I’ve seen, at a park I frequent myself. A friend who did a converted cargo trailer, finally sold it because he was being refused a site so often.
Click here and see Rule # 24.4 in the middle of page 11.
As for State laws, in Texas for example, under the Transportation Code it’s illegal to even tow a trailer on a public road if it has a built in propane system unless it meets NFPA 1192 standards and bears proof of same.
In California the Health and Safety Code - HSC Div 13, PART 2 , CHAPTER 4, Section 18027.3.
"h) It is unlawful for any person to do either of the following:
(2) Alter or convert, or cause to be altered or converted, any recreational vehicle in a manner that is inconsistent with ANSI Standard No. A119.2 or A119.5 or the NFPA 1192 Standard on Recreational Vehicles when the recreational vehicle is used, occupied, sold, or offered for sale within this state."
I just don’t understand why it’s so difficult to understand that there are life safety laws.
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