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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  Class C

 > What do I need to start this?

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77rollalong

Brighton Ontario

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Posted: 09/17/19 04:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Our 26 foot ford E350 is around 11,000 lbs, and will have to picked up by the front due to the over hang in the back, and the drive shaft disconnected at the rear axle.. if you have a 2 piece drive shaft the rear half can be removed from the front shaft, just tape up the U-joint caps so they dont fall off.... Some auto clubs also wont tow an un-plated car, so you may have to work around that somehow... I work for a towing Company here in Canada and CAA wont tow and un-Plated car.. but we dont really check to make sure the plate belongs to the car either lol

ron.dittmer

North-East Illinois

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Posted: 09/17/19 07:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Where the rig sits today, is there any way you can get the chassis working well enough to drive it the 40 miles to get home? Drive there in your car with tools, fix things good enough to drive it home, then drive the rig home. Get a ride from Uber later to get your car.

As far as not having a license plate, I buy vehicles all the time from private parties, most often across the USA. I carry the signed-over title and bill-of-sale. I have been pulled over by the police, never more than twice so far during any trip, give them the paperwork, they go into their squad car, come back, hand me my paperwork, and let me continue on my multi-state journey. With the title signed to you, and a bill of sale to include a statement concerning the situation as written by the seller, you should get home without a violation.


2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow


LokiSukaido

Pennsylvania

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Posted: 09/17/19 07:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So, I stopped by the RV, to see if I could get it moved. Turns out, the battery there was just about dead. So, I brought the battery home to check and charge. I also checked what fluids I could. The oil looked alright, but the coolant had a rainbow looking hue to it. And, I think she's out of gas. I'm expecting to need to flush the coolant. But, will it suffice to get her 40 miles home?

ron.dittmer

North-East Illinois

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Posted: 09/17/19 08:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LokiSukaido wrote:

So, I stopped by the RV, to see if I could get it moved. Turns out, the battery there was just about dead. So, I brought the battery home to check and charge. I also checked what fluids I could. The oil looked alright, but the coolant had a rainbow looking hue to it. And, I think she's out of gas. I'm expecting to need to flush the coolant. But, will it suffice to get her 40 miles home?
A little oil slick in the coolant is not a problem getting the rig home. But coolant in the oil is a catastrophic failure. The engine oil would look like a cream or tan colored substance.

Bring 5 gallons of fresh 87 octane gas, a charged battery and also jumper cables. With all fluids topped-off and jumper cables attached to your car while it's idling, with all accessories off in both vehicles, hope for the best when cranking-over. You may have to crank for quite some time before you get a response. But before you begin cranking like crazy, read next.

Your fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank. Before cranking, first turn the ignition to the last click before cranking, wait 10 seconds, then remove the key from the ignition and repeat 10 times. What you are doing is energizing the fuel pump which pumps fuel for less than 10 seconds then stops. You want to pump the gas from the rear fuel tank to the engine before cranking like crazy. Following the process significantly reduces the amount of cranking. If you have someone with you, have them do it so you can lay near the fuel tank and listen for the hummm or buzzz sound of the fuel pump. If you never hear such a sound, your fuel pump might be disabled, either from a blown fuse or locked-up fuel pump. If all fuses are good, then the pump might need a good jolt to get started. Bring a 2 foot long 2x4 for slapping the bottom of the fuel tank. Rest one end of the 2x4 on the bottom of the tank, then pivot/slap the tank, preferably while someone else is energizing the fuel pump. It sounds crazy but it works. It could take 20 or more slaps before the fuel pump jolts enough to wake up. Don't dent the fuel tank. A 1990 tank might be made of steel. Once you get the engine running, don't turn it off until you get home because you might be disabled again, requiring lots more slapping.

* This post was edited 09/17/19 09:08pm by ron.dittmer *

LokiSukaido

Pennsylvania

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Posted: 09/18/19 05:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you, for that. I'll keep that in mind. When I checked the oil dipstick, it did not look cloudy, or creamy. So, I guess that it's ok. When I head back, I'll see if your suggestion works.

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