RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: DC Power Issue

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > DC Power Issue

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev
Sponsored By:
wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

Senior Member

Joined: 07/04/2006

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/21/19 04:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am fond of saying many RVers have a few screws loose.. Turns out we have a few loose nuts in the RV world as well.. No do not be offended.

The screws I refer to are the ones in the power distribution panel that hold the wires.. one of mine took over 3 full turns before I was happy with it.. No wonder the A/C connected to it worked part time (Works great now)

The nuts... Well that was another RVer and they were in his 12 volt system.

Check all connections. Clean battery connections.


Home is where I park it.
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


opnspaces

San Diego Ca

Senior Member

Joined: 12/22/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/22/19 11:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SolanaJohn wrote:

I ran through all the voltage checks again:

Shore power off (no power to trailer)


Solar panels not covered/full sun.
Solar controller panel reads error (can’t detect a battery)
Across battery: 12.8V
Battery - to fuse + : 12.8V
Battery - to CB near battery: both sides 12.8V

So power is not getting from solar panels to the batteries. My first step is to check with a meter anywhere I can access between the panels and the batteries. Somewhere along the line you will poke that positive probe and it will come back with a zero reading. If the point you are testing is out in the elements try to find a way to test without poking a hole in the wiring.


Cover solar panels

Solar controller panel goes blank
Across battery: 12.75V Sounds like some power (.5v) is possibly trickling to battery from solar. Or the battery is just normally bleeding off excess charge. You could verify by uncovering the solar and see if the voltage goes back up to 12.8.
Battery - to fuse + : 12.75V
Battery - to CB near battery: both sides 12.75V


Plug in shore power (solar panels still covered)
Solar controller panel indicates 13.7V (no indication that battery is being charged)
Across battery: 12.77V
Battery - to fuse + : 12.77V Shore power plugged in and no charge to battery? I would pull the front off the fuse panel and start doing voltage readings. You should be able to find the wires coming from the batteries to the panel and see what power you have there.


Solar panels not covered/full sun.
Solar controller reads charging up to “13.8V / Full” Solar charger is being fooled by the shore power and thinks the batteries are charged when in fact is still doesn't even see a battery in the system.


Unplug shore power
Across battery: 13.58V
Battery - to fuse + : 13.58V
This is a bit confusing to me. A minute ago the batteries were at 12.77 when the shore power was putting out 13.7. Are you saying the battery reading jumped up as soon as you unplugged shore power? If so I would start to suspect the solar controller to be glitchy.


Cover Solar panels
Across battery: 12.9V
Battery - to fuse +: 12.9V
Controller panel shows 12.7V


Turn on lights sequentially until all lights fail.
Turn off all light switches. Switch on lights (none light).
Return all light switches to off position.
Across battery 12.8V
Battery - to fuse + : 12.8V
Next steps/any ideas?


* This post was edited 09/22/19 04:56pm by opnspaces *


1996 Suburban 4x4. 350, 4.10 3/4 ton
2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH
1986 Coleman Columbia Popup.

Sam Spade

North Central Florida

Senior Member

Joined: 11/05/2015

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/22/19 01:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SolanaJohn wrote:

SolanaJohn wrote:


Controller panel shows 12.7V
Turn on lights sequentially until all lights fail.
Turn off all light switches. Switch on lights (none light).
Return all light switches to off position.
Across battery 12.8V
Battery - to fuse + : 12.8V


Thanks, I did this already


Not really.

When you reach the point where the lights fail, STOP....and do not move any switches or change anything else while you check for where there IS voltage and where there is NONE.
You MUST LEAVE everything in exactly the same situation as the moment it failed.


'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

opnspaces

San Diego Ca

Senior Member

Joined: 12/22/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/22/19 05:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I sent you a PM,

Ultimately you might want to break this down into two separate trouble shooting issues. Start by focusing on the original equipment in the RV:
  1. Cover solar and disconnect solar charge controller wiring. Make it as if there was never any solar.
  2. Disconnect all negative terminals of the batteries.
  3. Unplug shore power.
  4. Take a picture of all the fuses in the fuse panel.
  5. Pull all the fuses out and figure out how to open up the fuse panel.
  6. Once open replace all the fuses and find where the wires come from the batteries to the panel.
  7. Hook up the batteries and take voltage readings at (battery, circuit breaker posts, any fuse you can find in the line,the connections and reverse polarity fuses at the use panel.


I'm assuming all is working at this point. If so leave the system unplugged.
  1. Turn on the lights until the system goes dark.
  2. Measure voltage at the fuse panel.
  3. Measure voltage at the circuit breaker.
  4. Measure voltage at the battery.


Somewhere in the path between the batteries and the board in the power center you will find the power suddenly stops.

23hotrodr

Iowa

Senior Member

Joined: 05/14/2008

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/23/19 04:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Be sure to clean and retighten your negative cables. Especially take care with the frame connection. Generally, make sure all connections are clean and tight including terminal to wire connections. Good luck!


2007 Itasca Suncruiser 35L
2000 Jeep Wrangler

JRscooby

Indepmo

Senior Member

Joined: 06/10/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/23/19 06:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I bet the OP needs to check all the grounds. Electricity likes to be where it is at. If it can't see a way back it ain't going anywhere.

SolanaJohn

San Diego

New Member

Joined: 09/14/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 10/07/19 08:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Problem fixed! The ground wire had a bad connection somewhere. I never discovered where exactly, but I replaced the wire. This trailer has a wire from the negative battery terminal all the way to a buss bar next to the power converter. There is a separate wire from the buss bar to the trailer chassis. I replaced the (battery to buss bar) wire and everything works fine now.
I also cleaned up the chassis ground even though it looked good.
Thank you for all the detailed responses - big help!

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > DC Power Issue
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS