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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > emergency start has been hardwired?

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Laurie_and_her_dog

Jackson, GA

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Posted: 10/23/19 01:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just wanted to let all of you know where things stand now. So, the dying issue was due to several things. The house battery was tested as showing "good" but it was not. It was discharging itself. (Volt meter lead to positive post and to top of battery showed voltage.) New battery installed. The forward fuel pump was loosing pressure. New pump installed. The MAIN culprit of her dying while driving was the fuel cap. Vapor lock. She runs great now. :-)
I have someone who is going to look at the crazy wiring the previous owner did. Since I very rarely run the generator I am hoping that I will not have the alternator issue in the previous comment.
I sincerely appreciate all of the responses.

maillemaker

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Posted: 01/14/20 06:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It appears that my solenoid has gone bad.

[image]

What kind should I replace it with?

Steve


1990 Winnebago Warrior. "She may not look like much but she's got it where it counts!"



BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 01/14/20 07:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lwiddis wrote:

IMO it’s time to hire a pro mechanic for your almost thirty year old rig.


That is un-called for! [emoticon]


1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
See Profile for House electronics set-up.

wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 01/15/20 04:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I do not see how that photo suggests the solenoid is bad.. BUT

There are basically two flavors of solenoid (really 3)

Starter solenoids close when energized and are designed for max 30 seconds. They will burn out of continuously engaged.

Isolator solenoids are identical to starter but designed for 100% engagement for hours on end.. They should NOT burn out...

Then there is the magnetic latching type that Intelletec (and likely others) uses in their modern battery control centers.. These are.... different.. but may APPEAR identical. On these you apply power one way. it goes CLUNK and connects. and latches.. then you apply power to the coil the OTHER way and again it CLUNKS and disconnects... At least ideally it does that.. Mine .. Well the switch needed cleaning (And that was when it was nearly new) a good cleaning and as of last propane fill. worked perfectly.


Home is where I park it.
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


maillemaker

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Posted: 01/15/20 11:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sorry, there is nothing in the picture to suggest failure, it's just a picture of the solenoid.

Nonetheless, it has failed.

I need to know what to replace it with.

Guess I'll call winnebago.

wolfe10

Texas

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Posted: 01/15/20 01:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If this is the ignition solenoid, you need a CONSTANT DUTY solenoid of at least the amp rating of the current one.

If this is the start solenoid, a starter solenoid (intermittent duty) solenoid if the same or greater rating is what you need.

Here, "more is better" (higher amp rating solenoid better with more surface area in contacts and/or better material in the contacts).


Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240


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maillemaker

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Posted: 01/16/20 10:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm going to start a new thread on my issue, thanks.

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