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 > Wave 6 heater

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Cummins12V98

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Posted: 10/07/19 09:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

All I can say is "CheapHeat"


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Shearwater

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Posted: 10/07/19 10:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I assume that the catalytic heater is not supposed to produce any carbon monoxide. This may be true when the converter is working properly but what happens if it malfunctions? At a minimum, I would invest in a carbon monoxide detector but in fact I would never trust something like that under any circumstances.


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ICamel

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Posted: 10/07/19 02:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wheeldog wrote:

Bought a new Olympian Wave 6 heater for my 9.5 ft S&S Camper. It isn’t doing very well at all.

It was about 45 outside and was 48 in the camper. It took 4 hours to bring the camper temp to 68 on the high setting. This is the second time I have experimented with the heater. Took about the same amount of time when I did it before. Once it hit 68 inside I turned it to medium. It would stay at 68 but not get any warmer.

In my latest 3rd test I had the wave 6 on high for 2 days. The temp got down to 30 last night and it was 55 in the camper this morning.

I am/was planning to use this to heat my camper this winter……..BUT……I’m thing if it’s doing such a poor job when the temps are in the 30's & 40’s whats going to happen when it gets down to zero?

I am at a low elevation, about 400 ft.

I am trying to figure out if it’s a bad heater, maybe I am doing something wrong, or it’s just the way they work??? Any ideas would be appreciated.


Something is wrong with either your Wave6 or the insulation of your camper.
I also use a Wave6 for comfort heating in a 9.5' Arctic Fox Camper.
Last week when the overnight temps were in the mid 40's to upper 30's the camper stayed around 72F, at an elevation of 4,500'.
Last November I camped at 5,200' where the daytime temperature never got above 41F and the nightime as low as 21F while the inside temp was very comfortable in the upper 60's. And FWIW I usually turn the temperature setting to low after the 10 minute High Temp warm up.
Are you opening up too much ventilation? Manufacturer recommends 24 square inches. Two 18" tall windows opened 3/4" is all you need.

Hi Don(pianotuna).........I'm still alive!


ICamel

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pianotuna

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Posted: 10/07/19 03:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi,

Glad you are alive.

Would it not be better to have a window and a vent opened? That may create a chimney effect to better remove the combustion products from the RV.

I still won't use an unvented combustion heater, thanks. There are through the wall vented units that are more capable than the Wave units. I value the brain cells I still have left.

ICamel wrote:

Are you opening up too much ventilation? Manufacturer recommends 24 square inches. Two 18" tall windows opened 3/4" is all you need.

Hi Don(pianotuna).........I'm still alive!



Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

pianotuna

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Posted: 10/07/19 03:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not too useful for boondocking unless you wish to run a generator 24/7. I won't run a generator while sleeping.

Cummins12V98 wrote:

All I can say is "CheapHeat"


pianotuna

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Posted: 10/07/19 03:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Ken,

I think you mean CO.

Unfortunately, as O2 levels start to drop, catalytic heaters start producing CO. They do not self extinguish either.

Love my oil filled electric fired radiator.

ken56 wrote:

Although it's oxygen depletion that is the issue and not CO2 with the Olympian Wave the possibility is there with the combustion not to mention the moisture issue related to combustion also. As for me, I will stick with electric heaters.


ken56

Tennessee

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Posted: 10/07/19 04:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

2oldman wrote:

ken56 wrote:

No CO2 to deal with
CO?


Um, yeah, CO.....we all make mistakes now and then.

wa8yxm

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Posted: 10/07/19 04:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I do not know the heater in question (looks to be an LP unit)

I normally use a collection of 1500 watt Electrics. I have special outlets and circuits to handle that much power 12 ga wire. One outlet per breaker. Wire bent around screws on the outlet (Standard house type 15/20 amp) not the anemic RV quick box type. Now for my 38' er I can use up to 4 of them (actually rigged for 5) before I need to kick in the furnace.

One thing about electric heaters

Many folks will try to convince you this or that or some other electric heater is somehow better than the rest... but every 1500 watt heater puts out EXACTLY the same amount of heat. EXACTLY. 100% efficient.. Why do I say this.

Loss in an electrical system is expressed as heat.. IN this system the loss is thus recovered as it's the desired product. So 100% efficient. Most rare in electrical systems.. Even the fan the fan has some loss converting electrical to mechanical (Expressed as heat) Some friction loss (Heat) and of course power is used moving the air.. (more friction loss so it too becomes heat) 100% efficient. it's all heat.


Home is where I park it.
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mike-uswest

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Posted: 10/07/19 06:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wa8yxm wrote:

I do not know the heater in question (looks to be an LP unit)

I normally use a collection of 1500 watt Electrics. I have special outlets and circuits to handle that much power 12 ga wire. One outlet per breaker. Wire bent around screws on the outlet (Standard house type 15/20 amp) not the anemic RV quick box type. Now for my 38' er I can use up to 4 of them (actually rigged for 5) before I need to kick in the furnace.

One thing about electric heaters

Many folks will try to convince you this or that or some other electric heater is somehow better than the rest... but every 1500 watt heater puts out EXACTLY the same amount of heat. EXACTLY. 100% efficient.. Why do I say this.

Loss in an electrical system is expressed as heat.. IN this system the loss is thus recovered as it's the desired product. So 100% efficient. Most rare in electrical systems.. Even the fan the fan has some loss converting electrical to mechanical (Expressed as heat) Some friction loss (Heat) and of course power is used moving the air.. (more friction loss so it too becomes heat) 100% efficient. it's all heat.


Unless you have a lot of batteries, that is hard to do out in the boonies. I hate the sound of a generator all night.

Mike


2003 Dodge 2500 CTD, 4X4,
Arctic Fox 25Y


Wheeldog

Wasilla, AK

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Posted: 10/07/19 09:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all the replies!! Lots of good information.

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