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 > Replacing drum brakes ???

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romore

Okanagan valley British Columbia

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Posted: 10/15/19 10:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I priced out the shoes vs the backing plate assemblies, for the difference in price shoes only wasn't worth my time. Plus I got new magnets and hardware.
I once replaced the shoes and turned the drums on my car. On a subsequent trip, it had to be a Sunday, a return spring broke and completely destroyed everything. I stuffed a nail in the brake line and nursed it home. Never again.

bobsallyh

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Posted: 10/15/19 12:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Several years ago, when I was going to replace the shoes, the supplier here told me the whole backing plates with the parts already mounted was cheaper that piece mealing it. He was correct and so easy to do as no cursing the springs. Go to www.etrailer.com

ilvtravln

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Posted: 10/15/19 12:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

edbehnke wrote:

replace the whole things with self adjusting.


Good idea, as I am 72 and it used to be a lot easier to adjust the brakes.

Thanks


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Posted: 10/15/19 12:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

colliehauler wrote:

Agree with others replace the entire assembly.


I priced it both ways, its a no brainer, get the backing plate with all new parts. Thanks to all who wrote.

bpounds

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Posted: 10/15/19 03:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Do you recommend reusing your drums? If so, how many times? Do you get them turned? Does turning include resurfacing the magnet track?

Might do brakes this spring. Not sure if I should do new drums, even though they look good. Seems like a set of drums with hubs and bearings costs as much or more than the brake sets.


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TxGearhead

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Posted: 10/15/19 07:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Get the entire brake assembly in a kit..shoes, back plate and magnets. I used eTrailer and upgraded to self adjusting.
You may as well get new seals and repack the bearings while you're in there.
Get some heat activated butt connectors for connecting the brake wiring. Use heat activated shrink wrap over the butt connectors to seal even more. Remember to slip the shrink wrap over the wires before you connect them. Harbor Freight heat gun works good.


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Lynnmor

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Posted: 10/16/19 02:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bpounds wrote:

Do you recommend reusing your drums? If so, how many times? Do you get them turned? Does turning include resurfacing the magnet track?

Might do brakes this spring. Not sure if I should do new drums, even though they look good. Seems like a set of drums with hubs and bearings costs as much or more than the brake sets.


The maximum diameter of the drums should be on the drum, normally they will have plenty of material to allow turning. The magnet track (armature) is a different story, they are often grooved and only .030" is allowed for removal and few shops have the ability to get the high finish required.

When replacing bearings, use only Timken, not the cheap Chinese junk sold by most stores, eTrailer included.

When burnishing new brakes, the manufacturer suggests doing repeated hard stops to get them seated. The problem with that is the new magnets are not yet seated and hard stops will work them hard, causing grooving of the armature. Now the new drums are as ugly as the old.





Cummins12V98

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Posted: 10/16/19 07:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bpounds wrote:

Do you recommend reusing your drums? If so, how many times? Do you get them turned? Does turning include resurfacing the magnet track?

Might do brakes this spring. Not sure if I should do new drums, even though they look good. Seems like a set of drums with hubs and bearings costs as much or more than the brake sets.


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