RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Xantrex Truecharge2 Reliability?

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Xantrex Truecharge2 Reliability?

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Prev  |  Next
Sponsored By:
jseyfert3

Wisconsin

New Member

Joined: 10/21/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 10/25/19 12:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

For $124 you can do it all and do it right instead of not quite all, not quite right for over twice that money.

Easy to use as a portable charger by cutting the end off a set of jumper cables to clamp on with.

https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/pro........er-converter-battery-charger-w-led-light

Two 105s can take 70 amps but a 2000w gen will struggle with that many amps so go with the 60. (That Trojan 10-13% is for when on shore power and gen time not a problem. Off-grid you do 50-90s and at max amps the batts can take and what the gen can run, whichever limit comes first)

I see. I misread your first reply in this thread. You're saying save my money, get the powermax and a cheap thermometer, and just adjust the output voltage manually, especially as I will only be using it to charge the batteries together. That makes sense, then I can charge to the full 14.82 (at 70 °F) voltage Trojan specs instead of 14.4 volts.

I'd probably not use as a portable, but instead mount inside one of the front outside storage compartments in my camper, with disconnect switches to connect and disconnect it.

I like it. This is why I like forums, you can get great ideas from other people! [emoticon]

Is the 10-13% just better on the batteries than high current? Or what would be the reason they specify 10-13%? We likely won't be using a generator a lot, but the quicker it charges at home after a trip the nicer as well, since we have to keep it at home till it charges then take it to a storage lot. Majority of our trips are weekend.

EDIT: Also forgot to add I have a Honda eu2200i, so I'm good for 1800 watts continuous on the occasions I do use a generator.

time2roll wrote:

Yes for a temporary connection to service as needed I agree with BFL's solution.
I would not use TC2 as a portable.

With the money you save consider 200 watts solar on the roof.

Not a bad idea. I've thought about some solar. We don't typically do much dry camping, but with the batteries it will sure make it easier, and solar even more so. Here in Wisconsin we typically do state parks (though I should look for other ways to camp too), which don't allow generators. Well, at least technically. I saw a bunch of Hondas at a state park the other weekend where it was cloudy and rainy at 45 in the day and 32 at night.

* This post was edited 10/25/19 12:25pm by jseyfert3 *


2015 Rockwood Mini Lite 2306


allen8106

Burrton. KS

Senior Member

Joined: 01/31/2012

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 10/25/19 12:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The company I work for buys Xantrex by the hundreds and have had consistent reliability issues with them. We are currently working with a new supplier to redesign our systems to be able to install the new supplier inverter.


2010 Eagle Super Lite 315RLDS
2018 GMC Sierra 3500HD 6.6L Duramax

2010 Nights 45
2011 Nights 70
2012 Nights 144
2013 Nights 46
2014 Nights 49
2015 Nights 57
2016 Nights 73
2017 Nights 40
2018 Nights 56
2019 Nights 76
2020 Nights 68


BFL13

Victoria, BC

Senior Member

Joined: 02/15/2006

View Profile



Posted: 10/25/19 12:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think the Honda 2200 will run the 75 amp PowerMax, which pulls about 1700. My B&S P2200 has 1700 and runs my 75amper right on the edge of overloading it, so the Honda with 1800 should be a little happier (at sea level anyway).

The adjustable converter has two holes in the side you need to get at, (flashlight and small screwdriver needed [emoticon] ) so it is a lot easier to make adjustments if it is not secured back in a compartment facing where you can't get at the holes or reach it. IMO make it a portable.

Here is how to operate the thing. It is easier than it sounds. Put your voltmeter in the terminals while doing the adjustments, then put the jumper cables back in and clamp on. (or clamp to voltmeter)

https://powermaxconverters.com/wp-conten........loads/2018/05/PM3-12V-LK-Manual-2018.pdf

Here is a handy table of voltage adjustments for temps Mark gave us (scroll down to his post) Suggest print it.

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26669731.cfm

* This post was edited 10/25/19 01:01pm by BFL13 *


1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

jseyfert3

Wisconsin

New Member

Joined: 10/21/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 10/25/19 01:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

I think the Honda 2200 will run the 75 amp PowerMax, which pulls about 1700. My B&S P2200 has 1700 and runs my 75amper right on the edge of overloading it, so the Honda with 1800 should be a little happier (at sea level anyway).

The adjustable converter has two holes in the side you need to get at, (flashlight and small screwdriver needed [emoticon] ) so it is a lot easier to make adjustments if it is not secured back in a compartment facing where you can't get at the holes or reach it. IMO make it a portable.

Here is how to operate the thing. It is easier than it sounds. Put your voltmeter in the terminals while doing the adjustments, then put the jumper cables back in and clamp on. (or clamp to voltmeter)

https://powermaxconverters.com/wp-conten........loads/2018/05/PM3-12V-LK-Manual-2018.pdf

Here is a handy table of voltage adjustments for temps Mark gave us (scroll down to his post) Suggest print it.

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26669731.cfm

I carry a flashlight and Leatherman all the time, so I've probably got that. I noted it was a screwdriver adjustment. My guess is it's a trimmer pot inside. There's a fair chance I'd just open that up, remove the trimmer pot and put it on an externally wired pot with a nice sized knob. Combine that with the disconnect switches and a panel mounted volt/amp meter and you've got a nice charging setup. I like projects if you can't tell...

Nice list of temps. I was thinking I'd have one printed near the charger.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

Senior Member

Joined: 02/15/2006

View Profile



Posted: 10/25/19 02:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes it is a little pot on the side of the circuit board. You can get in trouble trying to mess with that circuit wiring soldering etc, without frying it. Kind of expensive risk /reward. IMO leave it be. It also has some connection to the switch in the other hole in the side.

They used to make one with an external knob that is a lot easier to work with, but this one works too. You don't actually change the voltage very often. I would leave mine at 14.8 and use the OEM converter for any 13.6 mostly.

I have a Trimetric that does my amps etc.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

Senior Member

Joined: 12/18/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 10/25/19 05:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On the other hand you could go expensive and buy a Victron inverter charger with a remote that allows you to program exactly what voltage you require, and has a temperature probe on the battery bank. Or Outback will do the same.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

jseyfert3

Wisconsin

New Member

Joined: 10/21/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 10/26/19 12:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

Yes it is a little pot on the side of the circuit board. You can get in trouble trying to mess with that circuit wiring soldering etc, without frying it. Kind of expensive risk /reward. IMO leave it be. It also has some connection to the switch in the other hole in the side.

They used to make one with an external knob that is a lot easier to work with, but this one works too. You don't actually change the voltage very often. I would leave mine at 14.8 and use the OEM converter for any 13.6 mostly.

I have a Trimetric that does my amps etc.

True. It will certainly void the warranty, and there is a risk of damage. That said, if I mess it up I can buy a replacement and still not have spent what I would on a TrueCharge. I can't imagine it would be harder to solder than replacing a soldered power jack on a multi-layer laptop motherboard as I've done a couple of times.

For the moment it will be used completely portable, with allagator clips. The remote voltage adjust mod, permament mount and wiring can all be done later. Sometime when I have a lot of time to do whatever I want. Like during a camping trip. [emoticon]

BFL13

Victoria, BC

Senior Member

Joined: 02/15/2006

View Profile



Posted: 10/26/19 12:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Makes sense. Interesting scenario to put RV away once batts are full after getting home. Means leave it at 14.8 till hydrometer shows batts are to full SG. No drop to Float and anyway the OEM converter can do that.

Use fat gauge cable with Parrot Clamps instead of skinny gauge cable with long clamps that don't grip well. Note cu-al has less ampacity for its gauge than cu. Adapters on ends of cut stranded cable hold in the set screw terminals better. Fine strands hard to tighten down on. Terminals can take #4 if twisted tight. I put red tape by the pos terminal. Hard to see the + sign.

You will like this Forum. Lots of help from different guys who know about the various RV problems that keep happening.

jseyfert3

Wisconsin

New Member

Joined: 10/21/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 10/26/19 04:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yeah the house we are currently renting is actually street only parking. There isn't even a driveway. A bit of an oddball place, but it's really cheap, which means living here a few years really helps accelerate our long term financial goals.

On the flip side it means we can't park the camper at home. Overnight occasionally isn't an issue, but that'd be the most we could do. So we have to get the batteries up to full charge so they won't sulphate in storage and then get the camper to the storage lot as soon as that's done. No electric there so no float (otherwise we'd just charge in storage), but it'd be a really unusual situation if it went more than a month without us using it. We try for at least one weekend a month, with one week-long trip per year. If it did end up going more than a month I can always swing by and top the batteries up with my generator.

I need to add a quality hydrometer to my list of things to buy.

Indeed I think I will like this forum. I was searching for ways to improve things on our RV and my searches took me to this site more than any other site. So eventually I figured I should make an account so I could start asking questions directly.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

Senior Member

Joined: 02/15/2006

View Profile



Posted: 10/26/19 06:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Conflicting advice on all that. Not sure how I would play it. Leave the batts in for storage, but for sure take the wires off the neg post--batt disconnect switch does not disconnect everything--, or take them home and Float them there. There is some advice that says 6s don't much like being floated long term.

I think I would keep them at home, because I would be nervous the other way. Trojan manual, which you seem to have, has some thoughts on that whole business.

https://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/TrojanBattery_UsersGuide.pdf

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Xantrex Truecharge2 Reliability?
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.