RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Fifth-Wheels: water heater anode rod

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Fifth-Wheels

Open Roads Forum  >  Fifth-Wheels

 > water heater anode rod

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next
Sponsored By:
DutchmenSport

Indiana

Senior Member

Joined: 10/10/2006

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 10/27/19 07:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wildtoad wrote:

True enough. I have no issue with needing to drain it from time to time, and down here in SC getting a frozen wh is the least of my concerns. What I don’t like most is, this is the first wh I’ve owned that will spew water out of the relief valve. Yeah Yeah, I’ve tried all of the published remedies, and from time to time I’ll go a few heat cycles without it dripping. The manual says it is normal for an RV wh to drip when the air pocket is lost. My take is if they know what causes it, then they can design a solution. They just choose not to. End of rant....


OK, this really confused me. I'm not understanding what's going on here. Are you saying your relief valve blows occasionally spewing water? If so, it's doing that because the water is heating too much. Those valves are temperature regulated.

If you are talking about "spewing" when you replace or take the anode rod out, either via the relief valve or from the anode rod - drain hole, then make sure the water pump is off and turn off the water spigot at the water inlet source (garden hose). Then let pressure off by simply opening a faucet inside the camper first until nothing flow any more. Now you can comfortably remove the plug / anode rode without getting a shower first. And you don't have to relieve the pressure at the pressure relief valve, getting everything wet.

If you are talking about an occasional drip at the relief valve, this is normal. It's not the water heaters fault, it's in the relief valve, usually a speck of lime build up. Open and close the lift handle a few times and this usually breaks any crud and they seal good again. Even home water heaters relief valves will drip if opened and closed until they lime over again.

The difference on an RV is, we drain them often. Unlike a house where they may get drained once in 10 years.

If the "drip" is at the anode rod itself, this is also normal. If the threads of the anode are rusted, and / or the threads of the tank are rusted, chances are, there will be some small dripping going on. So, never store the camper with the anode rod pulled. Always replace it, even if the tank is empty, to keep the threads from rusting.

Also, Teflon tapes helps around those the plug threads too.

I don't understand the above comments about the air pocket and lowering the tube. I know there is a small air pocket at the top of the tank. But if the air is escaping through the relief valve, eventually, the air will be replaced with water and dripping and spewing (if overheated) will still happen.

So, I'm confused over your situation here, what's going on.

If spewing out the relief valve, sounds like your water heater is getting to hot, or the relief valve is failing, time to replace it.

zigzagrv

Nazareth, PA

Senior Member

Joined: 08/12/2004

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 10/27/19 08:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have owned my mh for over 12 years and have never replaced the anode rod in my Suburban water heater. I remove it every year when winterizing and there are gelatinous blobs accumulated on it and some minor pitting, but it is still about the same thickness and length of a new one. I have used water from all over the country and it stays in there till I drain it to winterize. I do have a spare rod, but have never seen the need to replace the old one.


Ron

2003 Gulf Stream Ultra Supreme 33'
F53 Class A
Master Tow dolly
Toyota RAV4


Lynnmor

Red Lion

Senior Member

Joined: 07/16/2011

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 10/27/19 08:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

zigzagrv wrote:

I have owned my mh for over 12 years and have never replaced the anode rod in my Suburban water heater. I remove it every year when winterizing and there are gelatinous blobs accumulated on it and some minor pitting, but it is still about the same thickness and length of a new one. I have used water from all over the country and it stays in there till I drain it to winterize. I do have a spare rod, but have never seen the need to replace the old one.


Perhaps it was replaced with an aluminum anode rod that lasts longer, but protects less. They aluminum rods are sold at many online sites and local stores with deceptive advertising.





ScottG

Bothell Wa.

Senior Member

Joined: 02/25/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 10/27/19 10:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Anodes last a long, long time here as well. Our water is super soft so it doesn't have much work to do.


Scott, Grace and Wesly
2003 Dodge 3500 4x4, 6 speed Cummins.
2018 Silver Fox 32A.
H0NDA eu2000i

colliehauler

Mc Pherson KS USA

Senior Member

Joined: 01/27/2004

View Profile






Posted: 10/27/19 11:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you go thru a anode rod in a year it is a sure sign the rod is truly needed to protect the water heater. Penny wise pound foolish to replace the anode rod with a plastic plug.

wildtoad

Blythewood, SC

Senior Member

Joined: 06/05/2011

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 10/27/19 03:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dutchman... the word “spew” was the first word that came to mind to describe the flow as “Drip” did not seem adequate. To be clear the relief valve only drips an the end of a heating cycle which seems “normal” and according to the manual expected and describes a temporary remedy. I have done the steps described from the manual and the various threads on the subject on this forum over the years. I have replaced the relief valve thrice times and not much help. Recently I actually got through three days worth of heating cycles with no drip but low and behold it starts. The manual suggests that if the normal procedures don’t work perhaps I should install small pressure tank just before where the cold water enters the heater. Again this indicates to me that Suburban knows it’s a problem (probably not much more than an annoyance) and have chosen not to engineer a permanent remedy. We did this to some degree when working for a software company when a customer would find a problem. We would devise a workaround until we could solve the actual problem. But we usually did go fix it.

On edit: I tested the water temp at my kitchen sink which sits about a foot above the wh and it was dead on factory spec.


Tom Wilds
Blythewood, SC
2016 Newmar Baystar Sport 3004

wildtoad

Blythewood, SC

Senior Member

Joined: 06/05/2011

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 10/27/19 04:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Further when it’s time to drain the system I never mess with the relief valve just open a faucet in the kitchen to help it drain. The way I figure it nothing good happens when you open and close that valve.

larry barnhart

wenatchee. wa usa

Senior Member

Joined: 03/30/2001

View Profile





Offline
Posted: 10/27/19 07:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

the relief valve can have build up and not allow it shut off tight. Remove it and soak it in vinegar and it will look new again. chevman


chevman
2001 35 ft avalon alpenlite RK
2005 3500 2wd duramax CC dually
prodigy
easyrider/reese airhitch
trailair center point suspension
JT Strong Arm Stabilizers
KSH 55 inbed fuel tank

scanguage II
TD-EOC
Induction Overhaul Kit
TST tire monitors
FMCA # F479110


Lynnmor

Red Lion

Senior Member

Joined: 07/16/2011

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 10/27/19 11:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The Suburban manual says this:
To replenish this air pocket: 1.Turn off water heater. 2.Turn off cold water supply line. 3.Open a faucet in the RV. 4.Pull out on the handle of the Pressure Relief (P & T) Valve and allow water to flow from the valve until it stops. 5.Release handle on P & T Valve - it should snap closed. 6.Close faucet and turn on cold water supply; as the tank fills, the air pocket will develop.

I don't quite agree with this method because the air pocket will be very small. The reason is that only the space above the valve will have the air and it will be compressed when the tank is filled.

To have a larger air pocket, simply drain the water heater and refill.

larry barnhart

wenatchee. wa usa

Senior Member

Joined: 03/30/2001

View Profile





Offline
Posted: 10/28/19 07:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

zigzagrv wrote:

I have owned my mh for over 12 years and have never replaced the anode rod in my Suburban water heater. I remove it every year when winterizing and there are gelatinous blobs accumulated on it and some minor pitting, but it is still about the same thickness and length of a new one. I have used water from all over the country and it stays in there till I drain it to winterize. I do have a spare rod, buthave never seen the need to replace the old one.



Ron if too much telfon tape is used the rod won't work because the treads need to touch the tank's treads. The reason I switched to pipe compound. Also the tank needs to have an air chamber. The relief valve can leak because of no place for the water to go when hot.

chevman

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Fifth-Wheels

 > water heater anode rod
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Fifth-Wheels


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS