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wildtoad

Blythewood, SC

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Posted: 10/29/19 06:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all the input on how to solve my issue with the water heater. Just saying, that I have tried all of the suggestions except perhaps the soak in vinegar but didn’t think it would help when brand new ones do the same thing.

Lynnmor I use your method as I do not want to even look at that valve during the process.


Tom Wilds
Blythewood, SC
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zigzagrv

Nazareth, PA

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Posted: 10/29/19 06:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"Ron if too much telfon tape is used the rod won't work because the treads need to touch the tank's treads. The reason I switched to pipe compound. Also the tank needs to have an air chamber. The relief valve can leak because of no place for the water to go when hot."

Larry, I don't use Teflon tape or pipe compound. Just a thin coating of grease on the threads so they don't seize/rust.


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wildtoad

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Posted: 10/30/19 01:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As luck would have it I had to have my small 6 gallon water heater, used to support the kitchen of my log cabin, replaced as the top rusted out. Here are some things I observed. One, is it lasted about 10 years with zero maintenance, never replaced the anode rod, never drained it. Never liked crawling under the house. When my friend the plumber removed the old unit, we drained it in the yard. Lots and lots of broken sludge, bits and pieces of metal, just basically a disgusting mess. After replacing this small one, we drained the main wh (40 g) for the house and it had some sludge but nothing like what the little one had. It too has had no maintenance until just now, but it’s still going.

Upon reading the manual for the new unit, I read that the anode rode is important to prevent the tank from rusting, and should be inspected every three years or so. In the same section the manual states that artificially soften water INCREASES the need for the anode rod due to the softening process.

So I guess I’m adding change the rod in more than just mh.

On another topic, I asked him about the relief valve/closed systems/ drip issue that many of us have with Suburban who’s. His first response was that I should put a small expansion tank on it. So he is going to get one and install it. BTW he mentioned that it is now code for new construction (at least here) that wh’s have an expansion tank.

Informative yet expensive morning

Lynnmor

Red Lion

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Posted: 10/30/19 03:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wildtoad wrote:

After replacing this small one, we drained the main wh (40 g) for the house and it had some sludge but nothing like what the little one had. It too has had no maintenance until just now, but it’s still going.


So was there anything left of the anode in the 40 gal. water heater?





larry barnhart

wenatchee. wa usa

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Posted: 11/01/19 11:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

this is what I know. We winter in Az for 6 months. I drain the water heater during the winter and then flush the white crud out from the terrible water here. Once I uses more than enough telfon tape and then noticed later when cleaning again the rod was looking like when I installed it. Plus some rust in the water when draining. I replaced the heater when we were home just because. Also had an older friend that has his neighbor replace the rod with a plug and a valve to drain the tank and the water was a mess with rust. The vinegar cleans the relief and the deposits that were on the valve were gone that could not seal. A lite tap on the end helps if water is leaking. Nice to hear all of the comments above. Never know everything even when my wife tells me"you think you know everything" chevman


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Goostoff

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Posted: 11/03/19 08:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I took it out and tossed it. Replaced it with a valve. When the weekend it over I open the valve and drain the water heater. This also makes winterizing easier as well. Been doing this for years and never had an issue. We are regular campers and really dont need to drain it but if you dont camp ofter you want to drain it anyway just so the water doesnt turn nasty and stink up the camper as soon as you run the hot water


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Cummins12V98

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Posted: 11/03/19 03:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As mentioned all depends on the water. Just checked mine today and flushed out the tank. Tank was very clean. This has 3 full years of full time use. Mostly West coast.

Be sure to turn off the water heater switch!!!

I use, Permatex 56521 High Performance Thread Sealant, 50 ml $12.49 AMAZON. Use it on any pipe fittings like fill and drain on my transfer case.

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