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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Maintenance Issues & Tips

 > Update on the 96 Bounder MH gifted to me

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RustyMacIntosh

Fresno, Cal

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Posted: 10/27/19 07:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

First off, I am pleased to be a member of this forum. I found and find the information specific to my needs of this motorhome to be fantastic.

My Bounder: New tires, new master cylinder, (the brakes still a bit mushy, but it goes back to the shop for shocks). Might need pads.

I got it home, pulled the two huge dead Interstate house batteries out. Replaced with simple Walmart batteries (for now.)

Here is where things got weird....

A fair-sized arc when I connected the 2nd house battery. The 12-volt stand-alone battery that I would consider the one which runs the motor and lights on the frame.....began to boil....fluid began boiling almost within 10 seconds of connecting up the house batteries.

I checked and rechecked the house battery connections. I have red (+) to poz, and neg to neg on each house battery. So I disconnected the stand-alone 12 volts.

The motorhome will start and run on the house batteries only. BUT--the amp meter on the dash is pegged way beyond 18v all the way to the right. I turned the engine off. The appliances all came on. I could get the heater fan to come on, the water heater tried to light.

The fridge also tried to start on gas--

I never could get the water pump to work.

So.....no gas flow. After thinking about it for a while, and fiddling with things, I removed a (not sure what to call it) a sensor? with two wires on it, that lead from the propane tank to the coach. Opening the valve on the propane, I got flow. At first, I figured the diaphragm was DOA like the one on my travel trailer was after sitting for a year or so. My intent was to replace it. I found a gas flow. But it ended at that small metal box with two wires that ran to the tank fuel level and then up under the coach.

So I removed it (temp) and got gas flow to the oven and cooktop. The heater then worked, (with heat), the fridge came alive and the water heater began to heat.

So, something I am doing or missing was keeping the gas from flowing from the tank to the coach.

Next, I noticed the steps on the door would open and close really fast. Obviously 24v and not 12v like it had before I replaced the house batteries.

I also noticed the relay under the hood of the coach, next to the circuit board with all the fuses was pretty warm to the touch. I only let things run this way for maybe 15 minutes. I disconnected the house batteries. Reconnected the 12v. Now the steps would not work. But they do work on house batteries.


OK, I called several mobile RV techs-none returned calls. I called the independent RV shop, left a voice mail. I need this coach checked out.

My guess (unwashed and only guessing), is there has to be some relay that is stuck. I'm getting way too many amps or volts to the coach. While it will run on the house batteries only, the round solenoid gets overly warm quickly, that solenoid obviously bridges the power.

Why does the 12v only battery begin to boil? It's getting a whole lotta juice into it. If I let it remain my guess is within a few minutes it would burn itself up. (It is new btw, along with the house batteries.)

The coach runs on the 12 volt, but no interior lights, nothing. I did find an inverter 900w, on the side panel under the kitchen. Disconnecting and reconnecting it did nothing. The 12v pump my be DOA. I need a helper to push the rocker switch either at the sink, or the bathroom, to see if power is flowing to the pump. I put a new pump in my TT Mallard last month, so I have a new one at my disposal if I need to experiment.

My TT has a switch that is either ON or OFF. This coach has a switch that when you put it ON, itself returns back. My guess there must be a relay somewhere that when you push the switch it goes on, then you push the switch again, it shuts the pump down. Not sure. Just a guess.

Like I said, not sure if 12v is flowing to the pump. Since I am alone and doing this myself.

Under 120v, the fridge works, but I have not checked to see if any of the other appliances come to life. I don't think they will.

So, obviously it needs to go to an expert who understands these units. It is much more complex than the Fleetwood TT I own. At this point, I am not sure what to do next. Except hand the keys to a shop, with an order to

FIX IT.

2bzy2c

California

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Posted: 10/27/19 07:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Electricity and I are NOT friends, but it seems that you have too much voltage running through your RV, though that is pretty obvious.

There must be another set of batteries, or you have the existing batteries wired incorrectly. Since the meter is pegged at +18 volts, there is something really wrong.

RV Wiring Basics

* This post was edited 10/27/19 07:27am by 2bzy2c *


My advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

Big Katuna

Deland, FL

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Posted: 10/27/19 07:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I’m guessing you replaced two six volt batteries that were in series (12v) with two 12v in series (24).

The lp tank has a shut off solenoid for shutting off the lp when filling or for tunnels. There is a switch somewhere.

F53 are notorious for brake problems. I would replace all hoses and caliper pins.


My Kharma ran over my Dogma.

RustyMacIntosh

Fresno, Cal

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Posted: 10/27/19 08:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OH NO! Let me go look at the Interstate batteries that I pulled. I bet they are 6v. I'll look for the switch. You are right, those brakes suck.

Mushy, pedal goes deep, you pump, it stops but nothing like it should. Once we get the appliances running, and operational, I'm paying for full brakes.

This unit is a nice motorhome. I will enjoy it fully. I was a travel trailer rv'r, this is my first MH. I am learning....

Lwiddis

Los Angeles area :(

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Posted: 10/27/19 08:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Many projects but you’ll understand that RV thoroughly once completed.


Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, 300 watts solar-parallel & MPPT, Trojan T-125s. TALL pole for flags. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, USF&WS, state & county camps. Bicyclist! 14 year Army vet - 11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560)


gbopp

The Keystone State

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Posted: 10/27/19 08:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you ever read The 12 Volt Side of Life?

It may be helpful.

RustyMacIntosh

Fresno, Cal

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Posted: 10/27/19 09:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

6 volt batteries. I should have known better. 3 cells not 6. I sure hope I did not burn anything out.

4th call to the RV tech, no return call. Now that is a business that if an honest straight up person could establish, actually answer phone calls, actually answer and show up, they would be a millionaire.

I'm reading The Keystone State article. Very good

Johno02

Lexington, TN USA

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Posted: 10/27/19 09:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just connect the two batteries you have in parallel instead of series, and you have your 12V, with lots of capacity and no additional cost. Should be no different than two 6V in series.


Noel and Betty Johnson (and Harry)
2005 GulfStream Ultra Supreme, 1 Old grouch, 1 wonderful wife, and a grouchy, old, tiny dog


RustyMacIntosh

Fresno, Cal

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Posted: 10/27/19 01:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I did, just swapped to parallel, not series, and everything came alive except the 12vt water pump.


I used a battery starter jump box to get power to the red and black on the 12v pump, it came alive also, but I cannot get the switches to work inside. For the life of me, that seems like the easiest issue.

I've checked every fuse under the hood and the circuit box inside the coach, I have power everywhere but nothing at the 12v switch at the kitchen sink, or the bathroom I did not chk the switch in the storage compartment where I saw the outside shower hose connected.

I'll see if I can find a tech to come solve this, or,,,,run a jumper inside the bathroom, hook it to a 12v power source and go camping! Redneck it.

The gen wants to start, but I can smell the old gas. I have generators from my travel trailer I can use.

So far everything works, but I have not tried the leveling jacks, and the 12v water pump won't switch on

we are getting close, and who knows..with what I am learning...I might open my own Mobile RV shop (no just kidding).

Chris Bryant

Arden, North Carolina

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Joined: 03/26/2003

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Posted: 10/27/19 01:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IIRC, Bounders of that era used an Intellitec water pump controller to use multiple momentary switches to control it. It should be close to the pump. The switches ground out the controller, which is installed in the ground side- again IIRC.


-- Chris Bryant
My RV Service Blog
The RV.net Blog

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