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 > Pop goes the water heater!

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BruceMc

Oregon - Willamette Valley

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Posted: 11/01/19 12:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The OP states: 'The "tunnel" where the burner goes is all rusted out and collapsed.'

Thinking out loud, exploring some alternate ideas:
Could it be the corrosion happened on the burner side of the heat tube rather than the water side?
In that case, the condition of the anode rod wouldn't matter. (Except, during normal use, the anode should have eroded some.)

The air is pretty dry in Mesa Arizona, so one wouldn't think excess moisture would be a contributor as it would be in western Oregon/Washington, for example.
Yet, propane does contain a fair amount of moisture so the air may not have been a contributor.
(Has your propane vendor been padding their profits by doping their propane supply? B^)

Chris, your comments may explain this one - a dry fire with propane would certainly overheat the combustion side of the heat tube.

As enblethen suggested, if I was in your situation, I'd certainly opt for an aluminum Atwood. I've had Atwoods since our first motorhome and never had a speck of issues.


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Previously:
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and the first: a Wildernest flip-top canopy.


RobG

Mesa, AZ

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Posted: 11/01/19 02:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks guys. I'll admit I didn't pay a lot of attention to it; thought the anode rod thing was just an indication of "good" water instead of a problem. Oh well, live 'n learn. I will look at Atwoods instead.

(pause)

HOLY ****. The 10-gal Dometic XT is $850!!! At least that's the price on Amazon...


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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 11/01/19 04:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi,

I'd go with the Attwood. I prefer the campground pay for my water heating, so that eliminates "on demand" heaters.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 11/01/19 05:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Suburban cut outs (opening size) is completely different then Atwood cut outs.
Dometic makes a 'KIT' (brackets) to replace a Suburban with an Atwood
Conversion Kit

Course you will still need to modify/run new wiring
Suburban Electric/Gas have separate systems (unless it is a DEL model)
120VAC is direct and 12VDC for propane
Atwood uses 12VDC for both electric and propane controls..so will need to change the wiring and provide for DC to turn electric on/off
Not real difficult just more involved then pulling old out and installing new.

Leak from inside combustion chamber.....
Poor factory welds (over heated where the spot welds are for baffle plate)
Condensation from flue gasses cooling

[image]



Anode rod....
Check the head of current rod
Smooth.....Aluminum
Bump in center...Magnesium

IF aluminum...it is NOT protecting your water heater as evidenced by it still being almost fully intact.


That Atwood XT Model.......uses a mixing valve to 'extend' available hot water.
Water is heater to 155*F (t-stat set point) then cold mixes with hot and mixing valve controls output to 130*F


Is it time for your medication or mine?


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Wild Bill 888

Denver

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Posted: 11/01/19 05:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

“ fwiw the anode rod never did degrade over time“

Is it possible that the rod is not grounded (eg. threads wrapped in Teflon tape)? No current flow, no protection.

Scrap off a few flakes and touch with a flame. Burns white hot, mag, melts, aluminum.

JTLance

Salem, Oregon

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Posted: 11/02/19 06:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tankless water heaters are an answer to a problem that doesn't exist.

Dusty R

Charlotte Michigan 48813

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Posted: 11/02/19 11:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I worked it the construction industry for over 30 years. The only place that I saw a Tankless Water Heater that I thought was in a good place, was at a loading dock, at a Department Store, that was a long ways from any rest-room or where hot water would be used.

Dusty











ankless

RobG

Mesa, AZ

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Posted: 11/04/19 07:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You're right -- my anode rod was aluminum. What the heck?? Why would they ship the WH with one, knowing it wouldn't protect it??

Groover

Pulaski, TN

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Posted: 11/04/19 02:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My issue with tankless water heaters is that they only run on propane, you just can't get enough electricity in a camper to heat water on demand. I prefer to run on electricity so that I don't have to mess with propane. Plus electricity is cheaper.

mobeewan

Hampton, Va

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Posted: 11/04/19 04:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wild Bill 888 wrote:

“ fwiw the anode rod never did degrade over time“

Is it possible that the rod is not grounded (eg. threads wrapped in Teflon tape)? No current flow, no protection.

Scrap off a few flakes and touch with a flame. Burns white hot, mag, melts, aluminum.


Teflon tape isolating an electrical connection btwn the water heater tank threads and the anode rod plug threads is a fallacy. An urban legend. An internet creation.

Teflon tape crushes btwn the male and female threads to fill the voids and imperfectionsin order to keep liquids from leaking through the threads. That's why it comes out in fine pieces and why some of it comes out in strings when removing it and cleaning it from the threads when the plug is removed.

The tape is basically destroyed as the anode rod is screwed in and tightened resulting in plenty of metal to metal contact. Believe it or not metal can penetrate plastic under Force.

If Teflon tape were so good at isolating the "electrical connection" btwn the tank and anode rod, the Teflon tape would be 100% intact and still look like a flat piece of tape when the anode rod is removed.

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