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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > Blow out water lines question

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ksg5000

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Posted: 11/07/19 10:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BarneyS wrote:

Why not spend a bit on a couple gallons of RV antifreeze and be 100% sure your are ok or blow out the line and HOPE you got all the water out? Barney


Many don't like the residual taste of antifreeze - and in the PNW we get the occasional warm weather during winter and it's nice to be able to add water and go camping w/o all the flushing.


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drsteve

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Posted: 11/07/19 05:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ksg5000 wrote:

BarneyS wrote:

Why not spend a bit on a couple gallons of RV antifreeze and be 100% sure your are ok or blow out the line and HOPE you got all the water out? Barney


Many don't like the residual taste of antifreeze - and in the PNW we get the occasional warm weather during winter and it's nice to be able to add water and go camping w/o all the flushing.


If you can taste it you didn't flush it good enough.


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Beaker

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Posted: 11/07/19 05:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Glad I read this thread! Did mine today with the pink but realize I forgot low drain point and outside shower.


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GrandpaKip

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Posted: 11/08/19 07:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BarneyS wrote:

Why not spend a bit on a couple gallons of RV antifreeze and be 100% sure your are ok or blow out the line and HOPE you got all the water out?
Either way takes about the same amount of time by the time you get the compressor out and hooked up. Also, I have never had any residual taste remain after running water through my lines in the spring.

Did it both ways during over 40 years of RVing. Found out the hard way that the black tank flush line does not get winterized by using the antifreeze. Now, I blow the lines out and then put the antifreeze in. Takes just a bit longer but I know for certain that my RV is safe during the cold Michigan winters. [emoticon]
Barney

I rigged up a line that goes from the outside shower to the black tank flush inlet and the water inlet. Shoots the pink stuff in both.


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Gdetrailer

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Posted: 11/08/19 12:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

drsteve wrote:

ksg5000 wrote:

BarneyS wrote:

Why not spend a bit on a couple gallons of RV antifreeze and be 100% sure your are ok or blow out the line and HOPE you got all the water out? Barney


Many don't like the residual taste of antifreeze - and in the PNW we get the occasional warm weather during winter and it's nice to be able to add water and go camping w/o all the flushing.


If you can taste it you didn't flush it good enough.


For some folks, they may have a far less "tolerance" to taste/smell and may be highly sensitive to what does not bother you..

For instance, my Mom (RIP) used to drive us crazy, insisted that we only buy her ONE specific brand of milk after she gave up driving. She could not stand the taste of the different brands of milk. Could not buy it at our corner store 2 miles away, had to drive 20 miles away (one way) and HOPE the store had it in stock.

We could not tell much if not any difference but my Mom COULD.

Milk now days is stripped down to the separate parts, each dairy has their own "formula" and method of "adding back" these parts at the ratio they want and blending it. DOES make for some very slight different taste. While it was not an issue for us, it was for my Mom.

We didn't POO POO her for her milk choice like you are POO POOING other folks here for not wanting the antifreeze taste..

Plastic ABSORBS CHEMICALS OVER TIME, even chemicals which are inert/harmless. It takes a lot of time and water to clear MOST but not all of those chemicals.

Some of the remaining chemicals left bound to the plastic will slowly continue to LEACH back into your drinking water. That leaching can influence the taste for some that are hypersensitive to it.

Myself, we don't drink from our RV water system, we buy bottled water for drinking, cooking and ice. We do that because quite frankly we do not like "city water chlorine taste" that you get from any campground that has municipal water or treats the water with chlorine (we have a deep well at our home and not city water).

I don't prefer to pump the system full of RV antifreeze when over 15 yrs I have only had ONE issue with a frozen line and that was my stupidity for closing the manual shut off valve to the toilet. Have not ever repeated that and the lines have not broken.

People around this forum act like a broken line is a huge expensive ordeal, it is not, PEX is cheap and easy to work with and with sharkbite fittings can easily fix a broken line in less than 5 minutes.. PEX also is quite tolerant for flexing caused by ice expansion when compared to copper lines or the old Quest (grey stuff) plastic.. And by the way, my TT HAS the ORIGINAL 35 yr old grey Quest stuff which was badly maligned to be "brittle"..

Most RVs run the water lines along on top of the floor in a chase and are not all that hard to get to so replacing is not all that hard to do. The only items to be concerned about is the water heater and the toilet valve, those are not easy and can be costly to replace.

But as I have said, if you are not comfortable with air only then by all means use the pink stuff.

Lantley

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Posted: 11/08/19 02:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

GDEtrailer wrote:
People around this forum act like a broken line is a huge expensive ordeal, it is not, PEX is cheap and easy to work with and with sharkbite fittings can easily fix a broken line in less than 5 minutes.. PEX also is quite tolerant for flexing caused by ice expansion when compared to copper lines or the old Quest (grey stuff) plastic..

Fixing the Pex is generally easy enough. It's finding the leak and gaining access to it in order to fix it that is the challenge. That does not include any damage caused by the leak.
Murphy's law dictates the leak will not be in a easy to access spot!
For the record standard insurance policy procedure is to pay for damage caused by a leak but they don't actually pay to fix the leak itself.
The damage is generally a bigger problem than the leak!

My point is use anti freeze and avoid any issues. Antifreeze is cheaper than shark bites. Easier to use than a saw, requires less effort than removing the underbelly. Does involve drying anything out. Antifreeze is also much cheaper than replacing, fixtures, valves,pumps or a host of miscellaneous parts


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Gdetrailer

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Posted: 11/08/19 03:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lantley wrote:



Fixing the Pex is generally easy enough. It's finding the leak and gaining access to it in order to fix it that is the challenge. That does not include any damage caused by the leak.
Murphy's law dictates the leak will not be in a easy to access spot!
For the record standard insurance policy procedure is to pay for damage caused by a leak but they don't actually pay to fix the leak itself.
The damage is generally a bigger problem than the leak!

My point is use anti freeze and avoid any issues. Antifreeze is cheaper than shark bites. Easier to use than a saw, requires less effort than removing the underbelly. Does involve drying anything out. Antifreeze is also much cheaper than replacing, fixtures, valves,pumps or a host of miscellaneous parts


[emoticon]

Silly person you are, just can't wrap your head around this dirt simple way of clearing the lines.

You simply repressurize the stupid water system WITH AIR in the spring time to TEST the system!

Yeah, it IS THAT simple.

I have to check and fill my tires anyway in the spring, tires lose pressure over the winter months so I do BOTH things at the same time in the spring. Or perhaps you NEVER check and air your tires, perhaps that is why so many folks grumble about tires blowing out on them?

Put 30 PSI of air on the system then let sit for an hr then check the pressure, no drop, no air noise and you are good to go with water.

AIR will not do any damage and you WILL hear it hiss if something is wrong.

A $39 Harbor Freight compressor can easily do both jobs or like I do, add 50ft of air line hose to my shop compressor. I have done it both ways.

EVEN if I were to use RV antifreeze I WOULD STILL PRETEST WITH AIR ONLY in the spring.

That is how you test brand new plumbing in new homes, stub out then add a air gauge then pressurize with air. Wait an hr and check for pressure drop, no pressure drop you are good to go with water.

As far as finding and getting to lines, no, they are not hidden in walls, they are run in a chase at floor level (fivers and some MHs might be under the floor in the basement but still not all that hard to access) in a RV, sometimes may run under the tub but pretty good chance that they WILL be not all that hard to get to..

At least in the several TTs I have had they both have been very easy to get to, out in the open under a couch, base cabinets and such.

Fixtures? Really, $50 at Home Depot or Lowes will get you FAR BETTER faucets than what RV manufacturers use, first thing I do is remove and toss the RV faucets, they are Dollar General quality stuff.

LEAVE the faucets OPEN and absolutely NO water will be trapped in the faucet, PERIOD.

Do YOU fill your water heater up with the pink stuff? Perhaps you should, perhaps you do not realize that when you drain the water heater, the drain IS above the bottom of the tank, it leaves at least 1 inch of water in there (water can't go below the drain hole).

Like I said, IF YOU feel better using the pink stuff then by all means use it. HOWEVER, there have been and are plenty of other folks who do not and never have any issues for many years.

GrandpaKip

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Posted: 11/09/19 07:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I pressurize the lines with AF, then crack the cold inlet on the water heater for a moment to put some in the tank.
Works for me.

BarneyS

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Posted: 11/09/19 08:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

GrandpaKip wrote:

I pressurize the lines with AF, then crack the cold inlet on the water heater for a moment to put some in the tank.
Works for me.

Whoa! Glad it works for you but I don't think it will work for anybody else. When you get even a little bit of AF in the hot water tank it is very difficult to get it all out. You will have foamy, smelly hot water for a long time.

If you drain your water heater there is absolutely no need to put anything in the tank. The small amount of water remaining in there will do no harm if it freezes.
Barney


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dieseltruckdriver

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Posted: 11/09/19 08:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Where the OP lives, blowing lines out would probably be fine. Every time I read these, it sure seems faster to just use the antifreeze.

Drain everything like everyone has said, use the pink to flush all the lines, then drain that out and use it in your drains. That way the antifreeze isn't sitting in the lines for months, and flushing is quick and easy in the spring.

I tried not using it one year and broke my shower head, as the small amount of water left was enough to crack the plastic. That made me realize that the pex will expand, but the fittings won't. Winterizing my way lets me sleep during those -30f nights without worrying.

People in warmer areas can get away with a lot more than we can. This doesn't mean that my way is right, and theirs is wrong. When it doesn't get above zero for over a week or more at a time, you have to do things different.


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