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 > Trickle Charging Chassis battery

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Land Yachters

Philadelphia

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Posted: 11/16/19 02:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am new to everything in our new (used Tiffin 33aa) coach, but am learning fast. I just learned the battery charger is only connected to house batteries, not chassis batteries. I have power connected while sitting outside for the winter, but that won't help chassis power. I expect to be starting/driving on occasion during the winter months, just to become more comfortable driving it, and want to just connect charger to the chassis batteries. If you look at pic, in the upper right corner, there are 2 terminals, labeled chassis battery (+) and chassis battery (-). Can I just connect charger to those 2 terminals for trickle charging? Maybe I am overthinking this, but don't want to make expensive mistake.
[image]

* This post was edited 11/16/19 02:40pm by Land Yachters *


Land Yachters
Philadelphia, PA
2018 Tiffin 33aa

Boon Docker

Mountain Foothills of South Western Alberta

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Posted: 11/16/19 02:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Deleted photo, OP fixed original

* This post was edited 11/16/19 05:05pm by Boon Docker *

pianotuna

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Posted: 11/16/19 02:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would add a trik-l-start unit.


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My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

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Posted: 11/16/19 02:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes but I'd connect to the battery posts below.


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Lwiddis

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Posted: 11/16/19 04:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Plugin charging isn’t the only way for house or chassis batteries.


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Sam Spade

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Posted: 11/16/19 05:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

First, are you assuming that the chassis battery doesn't charge when the coach is plugged in......or did you actually test it to be sure ?

You NEED a multi-meter, for this and future questions/problems.

Neither of my two units did either.....but they were supposed to and the fix was fairly simple and inexpensive. The bad "battery relay" caused the coach batteries not to charge when going down the road either.

P.S. If you find that you do need a separate charger, it needs to be an automatic tender type and NOT a cheap trickle charger. The difference is important.


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Veebyes

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Posted: 11/16/19 07:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the batteries are all together it would be a simple matter to connect the starting battery in parallel with the house bank & give it a trickle charge that way.

There are always ghost draws of power however small. The only way to make the vehicle completely dead is to physically disconnect the battery. It will still discharge. About 10% per month for a wet cell. 5% per month if you have AGMs.

AGMs are more forgiving. My 5er was put away last week. It has a single 4D AGM. Battery was disconnected & won't see any attention till next April. My last AGM gave me 9 years service storing this way.


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Bobbo

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Posted: 11/16/19 08:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When I had a Class C with a chassis battery, it did not charge from the converter/charger. I bought a Trik-L-Start and installed it on the solenoid that connected the two batteries together when I pushed a button on the dash. I put the source wire on the house battery lug. I put the destination wire on the chassis battery lug. I grounded the unit to the chassis. From then on, as long as the RV was plugged in, the chassis battery charged. The Trik-L-Start was secure in the electrical bay, out of sight. I bet whoever bought that RV 3 years ago still doesn't know it is there, but just assumes the converter/charger always kept the chassis battery charged.


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garym114

Bluff Dale, Texas

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Posted: 11/16/19 09:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just make yourself a ring jumper, one wire, connect + of house to + of chassis battery.

[image]


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Bobbo

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Posted: 11/17/19 07:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

garym114 wrote:

Just make yourself a ring jumper, one wire, connect + of house to + of chassis battery.

[image]

VERY bad idea. If you drain the house battery, you also drain the chassis battery and won't be able to start the MH to drive anywhere. The Trik-L-Start is a one way power transfer. It allows power to flow from the house battery (converter/charger) to the chassis battery, but does not allow current to flow the other direction. That prevents the house from running down the chassis battery. (It also doesn't let power flow from the house battery to the chassis battery if the house battery charge is lower than the chassis battery charge.)

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