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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  Class C

 > Quick question about oil changes

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carringb

Corvallis, OR

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Posted: 11/23/19 03:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

FWIW - here is Ford's official policy for long-term storage for the E-series:

• Change the engine oil and filter prior to storage because used engine oil contains contaminates which may cause engine damage.
• Start the engine every 15 days for a minimum of 15 minutes. Run at fast idle with the climate controls set to defrost until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
• With your foot on the brake, shift through all the gears while the engine is running.
• We recommend that you change the engine oil before you use your vehicle again.

That said... I know many folks with V10s that do nothing special for the engine. The generator is the neediest component on the RV, and probably does need special attention to ensure it starts back up.


Bryan

2000 Ford E450 V10 VAN! 450,000+ miles
2014 ORV really big trailer
2015 Ford Focus ST


pushtoy 2

texas

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Posted: 11/23/19 04:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

carringb wrote:

FWIW - here is Ford's official policy for long-term storage for the E-series:

• Change the engine oil and filter prior to storage because used engine oil contains contaminates which may cause engine damage.
• Start the engine every 15 days for a minimum of 15 minutes. Run at fast idle with the climate controls set to defrost until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
• With your foot on the brake, shift through all the gears while the engine is running.
• We recommend that you change the engine oil before you use your vehicle again.

That said... I know many folks with V10s that do nothing special for the engine. The generator is the neediest component on the RV, and probably does need special attention to ensure it starts back up.
I so agree i take mine for a drive once a month and run the geni. too.. make sure to put some kind of fuel stabelizer in it and fill the fuel tank all the way. JMO and letting it set so long without driving can sez up ihe brake calapers too..sorry about the spelling

* This post was edited 11/24/19 08:08am by pushtoy 2 *


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T18skyguy

Eugene, OR

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Posted: 11/23/19 05:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Terryallan wrote:

K Charles wrote:

Condensation is not a rumor. Once you take the oil out of the bottle the moisture in the air gets in it.


Just a question mind you. IF the oil is sealed in the engine, with no leaks, and no way to get air in. Does it still condensate?


The engine is not sealed. Its exposed to atmospheric conditions through the engine oil drain holes and some other places. Engines inhale and exhale every day with the changes in temperature, and when it goes below the dew point, condensate forms on the metal which contributes to rust. When the air cools(contracts), it inhales, and when it warms(expands) it exhales. The other thing that happens is the oxygen in the air starts to combine with the oil in a process called oxidation, which changes the properties of the oil in a bad way. When the engine runs, it makes a gallon of water for every gallon of fuel it burns. It's real apparent at startup when the engine is cold, and you see water coming out the tailpipe. The oil is really under attack from a lot of different directions. What it wants to do is form rust and sludge, the two big enemies of our engines.


Retired Anesthetist. LTP. Pilot with mechanic/inspection ratings. 2017 Jayco Greyhawk 31FS. Wife and daughter. Three cats which we must obey.

VA-Apraisr

glen allen, VA

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Posted: 11/23/19 05:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Filter and 6 quarts of oil....about $40 DIY. Really? Cheap insurance to keep it properly lubed with fresh oil. I change mine about every 2-3K miles due to the simple ease and low costs. Yeah, yeah, overkill on my part but I do a lot of beach driving in salt elements and rather be safer than sorry. A rebuilt engine will cost a whole lot of $$ and labor. Cheapest maintenance you can do for your RV is change the fluids.

RambleOnNW

Pacific Northwest

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Posted: 11/24/19 12:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I run Mobil 1 EP 5W/20 in the V10 and Mobil 1 0W-40 in the Onan Gen. I will change the V10 oil at 4000 miles and the Onan oil at 50 hours no matter how long it takes. This has been up to 20 months on the V10 and 2-1/2 years on the Onan. Blackstone oil analysis on both showed no issues with either oil change.

I do stick with an all-synthetic filter media on the oil filter for the V10.

I run the MH and gen monthly when not in use and use Stabil in the gas.


2006 Jayco 28', E450 6.8L V10, Bilstein HDs,
Roadmaster Anti-Sway Bars, Blue Ox TigerTrak

Cobra21

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Posted: 11/24/19 06:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I only drive ours about 1,000 miles a year. I do a once a year oil change. Ours sits covered for 6 months at a time so it isn't started during that period. I use seafoam for storage in both the engine and gen. No problems in 9 years with this one.
Brian

ron.dittmer

North-East Illinois

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Posted: 11/24/19 06:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We store our motor home indoors in a semi-controlled environment, our garage is heated to 60 degrees in winter. So atmospheric humility is minimal.

With the "given" situation, I always use full synthetic 5W-20 oil, and let "miles driven" be the primary factor. I change the oil just before leaving on a long trip in the multi-thousands. Our trips tend to vary between 4000 and 6000 miles.

If driving 500 miles a year and living in a more humid environment, I would change the oil every-other year. If living in a desert climate, I would be less worried about oil changes over time, maybe changing the oil every 4th year assuming the oil continues to look clear on the dipstick.

If you see a cream-colored slime forming on the inside of the oil fill cap, that indicates humidity is forming inside the engine, calling for the need to run the engine til hot, between your short trips, and change the oil more frequently.


2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow


JRscooby

Indepmo

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Posted: 11/24/19 07:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not a well educated guy, but I have some thoughts. On my old Cat, that I worked hard nearly every day I would pull a sample every week, and change filters at about half way between the recommendation with the high dollar synthetic oil. But my pickup, that so far in it's life, averaged less than 6500 miles a year, I run dino, and change every 3 months, or (1 time) 3000 miles. Now I make it a point, every Tuesday, if I drive anywhere I drive the pickup.
Like I say, I don't know much, but I think there is just as much chance that synthetic oil will get contaminated as the other. Condensation, rust, whatever will get in both. Unless you are driving enough miles no gain for the money.

Matt_Colie

Southeast Michigan

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Posted: 11/24/19 10:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK, Here comes a clear answer for those still reading the thread.

Most engine oil is composed of three different elements:
The actual lubricating oil and added components -like viscosity managers.
Anti-wear additives - ZDDP used to be prime, but now others.
Anti-corrosives - to combat the effects of combustion by products.

Now, Oil does not wear out. If it is largely viscosity managers (What makes XWXX work) those may show some shear-down in use. That is less of an issue with modern oils and engines (why they can live with 0WXX).
The anti-wear additives are prone to oxidation. They are fine in the can, but once exposed to air and combustion by products, they start to get damaged.
The anti-corrosives are there just to deal with the combustion by products that leak past the rings. This stuff is nasty. Left alone, it could rot out a stainless pot. That is the first part of an engine's lubricating oil to be damaged. When that component gets killed, then things go bad in a big hurry.

The last two above are why Mobil with the famous Mobil1 line still pitches annual lube oil changes as a minimum.

What do capital engines (like ships and such) with huge lube oil tanks do? We regularly send samples for analysis and get back information as to what to add to the lubricating oil to keep it in spec. Many actually have chemical treatment systems (sort of like a water softener, but different) to remove chemical contaminates.

Now, that said, if you like your engine and plan (hope) to keep it a long time, change the oil. Learn to do it yourself and buy the lube oil in big jugs and snicker at those that don't know what you now know.

What is this guy???
He was a ship's engineer for a lot of this life, and then came ashore to work and run Detroit engine laboratories until I retired.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.


jrobert01

tennessee

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Posted: 11/24/19 05:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I change my oil and filter with 5-20 mobile-1 every spring and ever winter sometimes 2000 mi.sometimes 8000 mi.Always use full synthetic Run gen 1Hr. monthly never had any black oil at changes in either.I have done this for years with no problems or oil use.

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