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Splashers3

Oakville, MD

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Posted: 11/28/19 04:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I flush my HW tank at the end of each season. This year, there was a high amount of calcium deposits in the tank bottom.....I spent a long time flushing a lot of it out. After seeing the previous poster's picture of the self draining anode, I can see it easily clogging - especially with all the particles I had this year. I'll pass.


2017 GMC 3500 Sierra Denali, C/C, D/A, DRW, w/40gal Aux tank, 18K B&W Patriot.
2019 Cedar Creek Hathaway, 34RL2 - w/Bells & Whistles and disc brakes
Traded 2009 Cedar Creek Silverback, GII, 32 WRL


joelc

Cedar Point, NC

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Posted: 11/28/19 07:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't know they came with drains. But I would not go that way. Stay with the std. anode rod. 1. How could you inspect the rod if it is not removed. 2. To get complete water to drain the valve would have to be at the lowest point and residual would water would be in the tank. 3. You could not shine a light into the tank to inspect it and flush it out. 4. You would not get that famous shower you get when the rod is removed. [emoticon]

bucky

Raleigh metro

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Posted: 11/29/19 04:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My low point drain does the water heater also it you open the relief valve. Yours may as well.


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importman

Lake City,SC

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Posted: 11/29/19 08:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you all for your advice. Not sure what I’m going to do yet but I appreciate your input.

* This post was edited 11/30/19 06:53am by importman *

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