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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  Modifications and Accessories

 > Routing Solar Wiring from Roof to Pass Through Storage

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camp-n-family

London, Ontario

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Posted: 11/29/19 06:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Does your tt have a moulded fibreglass type front cap? If so there is likely a hollow open void between the cap and the front wall of the tt. You wouldn’t have any way to secure the wiring through there but you could remove a side cabinet and cut a small access hole.


'17 Ram 2500 Crewcab Laramie CTD
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crcr

US

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Posted: 11/29/19 08:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

camp-n-family wrote:

Does your tt have a moulded fibreglass type front cap? If so there is likely a hollow open void between the cap and the front wall of the tt. You wouldn’t have any way to secure the wiring through there but you could remove a side cabinet and cut a small access hole.


Thanks. No, does not have the molded fiberglass front cap, has the older traditional style. I can't know for sure, but given there is styrofoam in other walls, that is why I suspect there might be styrofoam behind the inside paneling on the front of the TT.

Harvey51

Alberta

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Posted: 11/29/19 09:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The refrigerator vent is a surprisingly easy route for running heavy cable down from the roof.


2004 E350 Adventurer (Canadian) 20 footer - Alberta, Canada
No TV + 100W solar = no generator needed

Vintage465

Prunedale CA.

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Posted: 12/03/19 03:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was able to route #4 Welding Cable(red and black)from the combiner box over to the left side of the coach, then I intercepted it in the left wardrobe closet and brought it down to the night stand, where it came out of the bottom of the wardrobe and became exposed in the corner.
[image]
Then where it became exposed I cut out a piece of trim to to cover it. The "blemish" at the top is actually a reflection of the 12v outlet.
[image]
From there it went to the controller and down thru the belly to the batteries
[image]
I ran #2 welding cable down to the batteries.


V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Denali. 2015 Creekside 20fq w/450 watts solar. Retiring in 2021, then look-out road, here we come!

babock

Los Angeles, CA

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Posted: 12/03/19 06:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

crcr wrote:



Thanks, but I have studied this and have already made the decision that I will be wiring in parallel, and I will use substantial gauge wire from the roof combiner box to the solar controller. Parallel wiring because we camp in Forest Service campgrounds and state park campgrounds, and very often during the day, parts of the roof will be shaded, and parts will not. By wiring in parallel, if one or more solar panels has it's output cut drastically by shading, and other solar panels are still in full sun, I will still get a decent amount of amps.
You are still better off running in series. If your panels have bypass diodes(most do) the effect of shading only affects the panel that is shaded.

Vintage465

Prunedale CA.

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Posted: 12/03/19 09:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

babock wrote:

crcr wrote:



Thanks, but I have studied this and have already made the decision that I will be wiring in parallel, and I will use substantial gauge wire from the roof combiner box to the solar controller. Parallel wiring because we camp in Forest Service campgrounds and state park campgrounds, and very often during the day, parts of the roof will be shaded, and parts will not. By wiring in parallel, if one or more solar panels has it's output cut drastically by shading, and other solar panels are still in full sun, I will still get a decent amount of amps.
You are still better off running in series. If your panels have bypass diodes(most do) the effect of shading only affects the panel that is shaded.

I think the best bet is to get “enough controller” and a spacious enough combiner box to be able to wire it either way to see what really works best. At some point that’s what my plan is.

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