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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Converter will not charge batteries

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time2roll

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Posted: 12/18/19 03:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here is a link to some pictures:

http://www.bestconverter.com/Magnetek-Upgrade_ep_26-1.html

top pics show the blue wire. I have not actually done this conversion.... just read a lot of successful posts.


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Posted: 12/18/19 03:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Time2roll
I actually bought my PD4635VL from Best Converter to replace my Magnetek 6336 and Randy tried to helped me but he suggested there was a problem with the wiring in my TC.

AnEv942

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Posted: 12/18/19 04:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The 'blue' wire mentioned was the lead from the old Mag. converter to the circuit board. The new P/D converter lead isnt blue, Mine was black, (current units may be red?). Would be outlined in instructions.

Assume you changed the board
[image]

Ya if no 12v when plugged in and battery off, something is disconnected.
Trying to see how you could have 12v to fuse panel yet not charge.
possibly battery lead connected to the converter terminal on board?


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Posted: 12/18/19 05:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

removed after I saw pictures.


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Posted: 12/18/19 08:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

AnEv942 wrote:

The 'blue' wire mentioned was the lead from the old Mag. converter to the circuit board. The new P/D converter lead isnt blue, Mine was black, (current units may be red?). Would be outlined in instructions.

Assume you changed the board
[image]

Ya if no 12v when plugged in and battery off, something is disconnected.
Trying to see how you could have 12v to fuse panel yet not charge.
possibly battery lead connected to the converter terminal on board?

Your installation is very similar to mine. The lead wire on my board is black as well as you can see in my photo
[image]
and yes I did change the board. My only concern is the positive wire from the battery. I will have another look at it tomorrow.

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Posted: 12/18/19 09:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

biggjb wrote:

AnEv942 wrote:

The 'blue' wire mentioned was the lead from the old Mag. converter to the circuit board. The new P/D converter lead isnt blue, Mine was black, (current units may be red?). Would be outlined in instructions.

Assume you changed the board
[image]

Ya if no 12v when plugged in and battery off, something is disconnected.
Trying to see how you could have 12v to fuse panel yet not charge.
possibly battery lead connected to the converter terminal on board?

Your installation is very similar to mine. The lead wire on my board is black as well as you can see in my photo
[image]
and yes I did change the board. My only concern is the positive wire from the battery. I will have another look at it tomorrow.
Could be off your picture but I am not seeing ground/white wire from converter connected to the ground lug on fuse panel , only battery ground .


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AnEv942

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Posted: 12/19/19 10:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

[image]
Wiring looks good from here.
Could be a difference in function, mine is 10 years old but I can disconnect battery and converter does power circuit board. However, in normal use you want battery 'on' supplying power, converter just recharges it and shouldn't be used to power loads directly or without battery. My disconnect is between battery and converter so turning it off isolates camper from battery, (but it also wont receive a charge). But again battery should be 'on' regardless of converter on/off or shore power.

my 2 cents- with battery on and camper AC connected, converter on- multimeter should show converter voltage at both battery & converter positive lugs.
With converter turned off (breaker) you should see battery voltage at both terminals.
If converter voltage shows at battery board terminal, Id pull the battery cable lead from converter at battery and check voltage there-should see converter voltage from converter on cable. Pulling battery lead at board terminal should see battery voltage on cable.

For some reason (short of converter malfunction) with what so far has been related- makes me think some how cable from battery is one way, only sending battery power to converter but power cant travel back. I cant see how that's possible unless whatever was added as disconnect has that function?

* This post was edited 12/19/19 10:21am by AnEv942 *

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Posted: 12/21/19 06:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

AnEv942. The last part of your makes perfect sense. I should put a real 35A fuse in the battery line as perhaps the current fuse only allows current from battery to converter.

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Posted: 12/21/19 06:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

AnEv942 wrote:

my 2 cents- with battery on and camper AC connected, converter on- multimeter should show converter voltage at both battery & converter positive lugs.
With converter turned off (breaker) you should see battery voltage at both terminals.
If converter voltage shows at battery board terminal, Id pull the battery cable lead from converter at battery and check voltage there-should see converter voltage from converter on cable. Pulling battery lead at board terminal should see battery voltage on cable.

For some reason (short of converter malfunction) with what so far has been related- makes me think some how cable from battery is one way, only sending battery power to converter but power cant travel back. I cant see how that's possible unless whatever was added as disconnect has that function?


Everything that others are saying is correct and it should be simple to check. What I am wondering is if there is not another cut off on the line to the battery maybe to isolate it, maybe even a switch on the battery terminal. Can you follow the wires from the charger to the battery all the way or do they disappear behind a wall someplace? If you have zero 12v working when inverter is off then something is shut off.

I would run two lines from the charger to the battery across the floor and then see what happens. This would tell you if it is the lines that are installed.

Many old units did not have a battery, they only ran the 12v when they were plugged in or from the truck.


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Posted: 12/31/19 01:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Photomike wrote:

AnEv942 wrote:

my 2 cents- with battery on and camper AC connected, converter on- multimeter should show converter voltage at both battery & converter positive lugs.
With converter turned off (breaker) you should see battery voltage at both terminals.
If converter voltage shows at battery board terminal, Id pull the battery cable lead from converter at battery and check voltage there-should see converter voltage from converter on cable. Pulling battery lead at board terminal should see battery voltage on cable.

For some reason (short of converter malfunction) with what so far has been related- makes me think some how cable from battery is one way, only sending battery power to converter but power cant travel back. I cant see how that's possible unless whatever was added as disconnect has that function?


Everything that others are saying is correct and it should be simple to check. What I am wondering is if there is not another cut off on the line to the battery maybe to isolate it, maybe even a switch on the battery terminal. Can you follow the wires from the charger to the battery all the way or do they disappear behind a wall someplace? If you have zero 12v working when inverter is off then something is shut off.

I would run two lines from the charger to the battery across the floor and then see what happens. This would tell you if it is the lines that are installed.

Many old units did not have a battery, they only ran the 12v when they were plugged in or from the truck.


There was a break in the weather it's now +1 Celsius and I was able to get into the TC. With the converter turned off I hooked the battery directly to converter. I then turned on the converter and checked the voltage across the converter and it was 13.5 volts. The voltage across the battery was 13.0 volts. I then put a load on the battery and the voltage dropped to 12.7 volts, however, the voltage across the converter remained at 13.5 volts. This process would remove any wiring concerns and should test just the converter...I hope? Is the converter at fault?

I also checked the battery wires from the fuse box and it is connected to directly to the truck plug. There is a fuse between the truck plug and the fuse box but connecting the battery directly to the converter should have bypassed that fuse. I don't want to buy another converter at +$200 if I can help it. Any further advice?

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