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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > What is going on with this roof?

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drsteve

Michigan

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Posted: 12/21/19 07:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hence wrote:

We only paid a 1,000 for it and it came with some of the renovation supplies. The wood we need we have gotten free, except the 4 floor boards which will be about 100. and 2 ceiling panels and a roll of insulation to replace a few parts. We will also have to buy sealant for corners, windows and roof. and screws. We already have paint, tile and fabric for the upholstery and pretty much all the lights and appliances work. the frame is in good condition a long with wiring and venting. We have opened up the entire front wall and the ceiling where there was water damage. Also we already planned on replacing the back wall wood and insulation and most of the wood and some of the insulation on both sides. Is there something that we are
missing?


Ahh, so you are prepared, and know what you're doing!

Many of the doom and gloom comments were likely because people assumed you were yet another newbie who thought he got a deal and it would be no problem patching things up. Carry on, and do post pics of your progress!


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72cougarxr7

Northern NY

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Posted: 12/21/19 09:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My 1st camper was a 15 foot Prowler that had water damage to the roof near the antenna and one of the back corners and back window area had water damage to walls.
Cut out all of the ceiling paneling, the whole back wall, and a few feet up the side wall from the corner.
Replaced any rotted framing lumber from the inside, Lowes and Home depot have a decent selection of metal joining plates that came in handy.
Replaced insulation and paneling and used it for a few years before we outgrew it and moved up to a bigger trailer.
Mine had a metal roof as well, you really have to keep after the seams and caulking.
I would use butyl tape under the vents then go over with dicor self leveling caulk (go over the screws also). Geocel caulk works well where you dont need self leveling like around windows and lights.
I would use Eternabond tape on any seams in the roofing, like where the front or rear cap meet the roof metal, of where pieces of roofing are seamed togeather.

I found a nice product called Revolution Ply that is a thin plywood luan paneling, it comes primed on one side and is easy to work with and inexpensive.

Good luck with your project! It can be done!

Hence

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Posted: 12/22/19 12:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old Islander wrote:

For a sense of what you're getting yourself into, have a look at this gentleman's thread; rebuilding a water damaged motorhome. You may well be looking at a lot of the same issues that he encountered. He started in June 2017 and is possibly half finished.


After looking at his project I can better understand everyone’s concern. Luckily our trailer has a much more simple construction. And is a pretty small trailer. Has almost the same construction as our tent trailer. Metal then insulation and a little framing and then the paneling.

Hence

Hurricane

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Posted: 12/22/19 12:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Also we were thinking we might start by taking off the out side panels on the front and back so we can remove the roof and then replace any rooted wood and insulation that way. Is there any reason we should not do it that way?

Also we are trying to remove the upper cabinets and do lot see any screws to remove them. Does that mean they are staples or glued in place?

* This post was edited 12/22/19 12:32am by Hence *

JIMNLIN

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Posted: 12/22/19 04:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Once you remove the outside skins then you can see better how the cabinets are installed.
Most metal sided skins are installed top to bottom and removed bottom to top. These type panels may use a pittsburg type joint with maybe staples only on the pittsburg flange and/or hex head screws holding the panels.


"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

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Hence

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Posted: 01/01/20 07:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Should I use grovel or Dicor non-sag around the windows and where the panels meet the roof?

GrandpaKip

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Posted: 01/02/20 06:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hence wrote:

Should I use grovel or Dicor non-sag around the windows and where the panels meet the roof?

I would use either Lexel or Geocel, but definitely not grovel.


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OleManOleCan

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Posted: 01/02/20 10:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hence wrote:

Hi we are new to travel trailers. And we just bought a 1986 roadranger that needed a little work.... so I thought. We have now realized that the roof has leaking, all the windows have leaking, the screws on the back right corner will not stay in because the wood is rotted and a bunch of the floor boards. Soooo we have a long road ahead of us. I was thinking we should start with the roof first, any opinions? The roof is aluminum and is in 3-4 sections. The roof vents were just replaced but sealed wrong so we will reseal them and check for water damage around them but Im not sure if there is leaking coming from any other spots. the seams look like a black substance was put down first, then someone caulked over that and then painted just the seams white. I think the seams need to be resealed should I scrape it clean and then apply enternabond tape? I am was going to use butyl tape and dicor self leveling lap sealant to do the air vents. Should I also do that with the other things sticking up on the roof? one other concern is should I coat the aluminum roof with anything?


That's a really big project. I'd think about it before I committed the time and money to tackle it.

You have bought a money pit.

Jebby14

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Posted: 01/03/20 05:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

hopefully you have somewhere sheltered to work on it. if not id start with that. next strip out all the appliances and plumbing and everything useful. then demo the rotted box off the frame. next service the frame, this is a good time to clean up any rust and weld in any supports and patches. then start building the box you want in the configuration you want. reinstall the appliances electrical and plumbing as you build. then put a lid on it and cover it.

been there, I wouldn't do it again and I did ok with mine (bought for 2k, spent 1100) sold for 1800 5 years later.

don't expect to be using it this season unless you have WAY more time than I do to work on it.


If it moves and it shouldn't..... duct tape
if it doesn't move and it should.....WD40
if all else fails .....BFH


JIMNLIN

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Posted: 01/03/20 07:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When you get the structure back in good shape and the metal skins back on then is the to install windows....doors....roof jacks and fixtures. Simply reinstall them like OEM which is butyl tape first. I use a wooden tongue depressor or plastic putty knife and remove the excess squeezed out. Then is the time to Use a self leveling sealant over the screws and where the butyl squeezed out.
Same butyl tape under the windows and doors flanges just like the everything on the roof. Using a sealant on a vertical surface is optional.
My '97 31' 5th wheel trailer windows and doors have no secondary sealant ...just the butyl tape. No leaks....but I do my usual yearly check on everything.
Most aluminum roofing in that era was seamless by then. If so and your adding a coat be sure and use white.
I did this type work part time on mobilehomes and rvs back in the '60s and '70s. Todays sealants are amazing compared to tar and caulking that got rock hard back then.

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