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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Water pressure problem

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GenoB

Parker Strip, AZ

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Posted: 01/07/20 09:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

All good suggestions ! Try to just remove the screen at each faucet and run the water without the end on and see if it comes rushing out. Every time I have had a low water issue in the rig and the pressure is good outside its been a clogged screen at the water inlet where the hose attaches to rig or at the faucet or the pressure regulator outside on the hose,

wa8yxm

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Posted: 01/08/20 04:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Are you using a pressure regulator and park water? is the regulator a 3/4" cylinder either plastic or brass with male hose fitting at one end and female at the other.. THOSE ARE JUNK.. Upgrade to either a Valterra adjustable (About 30 bucks) or a Watts or Zurin in-line 1/2 or 3/4 inch with hose adapters (about twice that).


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Nicodemus

Hoodsport WA

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Posted: 01/11/20 04:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes, we're using a regulator and park water. Was going to take it off park water but discovered that now the water pump isn't working! Just one thing after another.

Mike Tassinari

Peabody Mass..

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Posted: 01/20/20 04:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The water pump has a built in check valve to prevent water from flowing back into your fresh water tank when you are hooked up to city water pressure.
My guess since your water flow problem in common to all of your hot and cold faucets, that check valve must be stuck and severely limiting the amount of water getting into your hot and cold water lines.
Easy way to check this is to disconnect your outlet water line at the water pump and see just how free flowing the water is comming out of your pump.
Mike Tassinari


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richardcoxid

Idaho Falls, ID

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Posted: 01/21/20 03:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You should define what you mean “take the top off the faucet”. At the end of each faucet spout where the water comes out there is a small screwed in device about 3/4” in Diameter, that is the aerator, inside it there is a screen that catches the small debris that collect in the piping. Use a pair of pliers or a pair of Channel locks padded with a small rag to prevent scratching the aerator and rotate out (righty tightly and lefty loose/ you are looking at it upside down. Blow it out and re-install. Or go to your local hardware store/ Lowe’s/ Home Depot and purchase a new one only a couple of bucks each.


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Dtank

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Posted: 02/01/20 09:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nicodemus wrote:



We use a regulator because the manager said that the pressure is high. Any ideas?



What do you mean by "regulator"?

If it's the $10 variety you connect to the (hose bib) faucet - it's really a water "restrictor".

If it's a Watts Regulator (or the like) - about $50. - you should be able to adjust the pressure at the regulator.

Test your "regulator" on a S&B (home) hose bib with a garden hose.
See what kind of flow (volume) & pressure you get.

.

Lynnmor

Red Lion

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Posted: 02/02/20 02:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There is no such thing as a "restrictor" sold as a pressure regulator. Those cheap barrel shaped regulators cannot be tested by checking flow at the end of a garden hose, the flow will vary because of different amounts of restriction in the various fixtures. Just buy a quality regulator.





Solo

NE Kansas/Central Florida

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Posted: 02/02/20 03:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Another angle to consider when addressing poor water flow, I seemed to be constantly cleaning lime and calcium deposits from the faucet aerators until I finally installed a water softener on our coach. Problem solved.


Solo
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wa8yxm

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Posted: 02/02/20 03:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One more thing on the kitchen if it has a pull out head (Faucet head is also sprayer) there is a check valve in the base of the head (where the hose connects) this can lime up and clog.

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