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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Suburban SW6 lights but drops out after 30+ seconds

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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 01/07/20 09:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So the flame goes out first and 5 secs later the 12v stops at the gas valve and it also shuts the gas off? The time it stays burning after first getting lit varies, and sometimes it relights and then quits again. You wait and it will fire up then quit again.

So something is getting too hot quickly and then it works again when it cools down some?

After the flame goes out it takes 5 secs for the gas to shut off, so the flame sensor system is working properly?

What does the flame look like when it is burning?


1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
See Profile for House electronics set-up.
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas

GenoB

Parker Strip, AZ

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Posted: 01/07/20 09:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

To answer several posts
1) Other gas usage - No difference. I have turned on all 3 burners on stove and run the heater and no difference when I start the water heater
2) I like this thermoset idea, I don't see it anywhere except the one behind the black rubber reset button and I have checked that, it stays 12vdc on top and bottom of reset button
3) Well the orface is rusty looking and rough. I did scrape it a bit and blow it out with a air hose. Think this could still be the issue ? I should take it out and soak it win alcohol then air dry it and put back in ? This doesn't seem logical to disrupt the flame but I'll listen to the experts and try this today ?
4) Flame looks good, mostly blue with some yellow. It seems to slowly shut down when the flame it going out, sometimes I hear the igniter going off just before the flame goes out ?

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 01/07/20 10:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

GAS orifices are a metered hole/precision that allws the proper amount of gas to flow

Propane system is ONLY 0.4 psi....so proper/correct flow of gas is CRITCIAL

Orifice rusty up/rough looking and you have scraped it!!!!
REPLACE IT -----it is NO Longer a metered/precision device

And clean the burner tube also


Side Note:
Circuit board instantly drops DC to gas valve when flame is not proven/lost------INSTANTLY
Gas Valve snaps closed under spring pressure upon loss of DC to solenoids.


Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
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smthbros

WI

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Posted: 01/07/20 10:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Verify the integrity of the vent system. Re-circulation of exhaust gas into combustion air may cause similar symptoms.

GenoB

Parker Strip, AZ

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Posted: 01/07/20 11:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a feeling these last two posts may be the issue then.
a) I scrapped the tube where the gas burins, lightly with a brush and blew out with air nossle. Lots of **** came out. I did not do anything to the little orface at the begging of the round gas tube so if I clean the round burner tube where the flame is, will that help ?
b) It appears to vent out the front and that is clear. I will look into burner tube to see how that looks at the back.

GenoB

Parker Strip, AZ

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Posted: 01/07/20 12:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

[image]

* This post was edited 01/07/20 12:42pm by GenoB *

GenoB

Parker Strip, AZ

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Posted: 01/07/20 12:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

[image]

DarkSkySeeker

Freestone, California

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Posted: 01/07/20 03:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This is what was wrong with mine: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29783932.cfm


There is something special about camping in an RV.
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GenoB

Parker Strip, AZ

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Posted: 01/07/20 05:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

**** Problem Solved ****

I got to thinking about what could be starving the flame of gas and decided to look harder at the gas valve. I used my digital meter to check the resistance on each coil and found one was 45 ohms and the other had over a Meg ohms of resistance. Looking up the specs I found a good coil is between 30 and 50 ohms. Taking two wires from my battery I attached them to each coil separately and found one worked fine, the other would lock in but after about 30 seconds it would release and then go right back on. A thermal short !!! I suspect the coil would heat up and a wire inside would disconnect, opening the coil and letting the valve close. Then right away contact as it cooled off and open the valve again. Over and over again !

Bought 2 new coils at about $25 and guess what ! WORKS GREAT !

Intermittent problems as ALWAYS the hardest to figure out fine. Thanks for all your help on this, I learned a lot ! Geno B-

Boon Docker

Mountain Foothills of Southern Alberta

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Posted: 01/07/20 05:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Really glad to hear that you got it working.

I had a similar problem with a gas valve years ago. The furnace would start and blow cold air until I give the gas valve a whack with a wrench. Then it would run great until until the next cycle.

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